Joseph

Does anyone have vector files of the ET tank decal patterns ?

S2711L (or R) is the ref type you're looking for. Google whatever you find and you should be able to find out. That example i gave fits 750 90-93 i think ?

Inside as in facing the brake discs surface, yep

Fork ID number is cast inside the feet of the legs

Only bearings i found with 20 ID are slightly slimmer and non sealed. Sprocket side is not really a problem, since it is shielded by the sprocket carrier. Disc side you just need to use an appropriate sized seal. Done this on two bikes, i found that the bearings don't last as long but it's hardly an expense and if no sealed options are available it's the best that can be done

And forgot another crucial point : disc spacing width and rim hub width needs to be assessed, and also fork tube spacing. Much easier to fit the whole front end i think

Changing bearings is probably an option however you will lose the speedo cable drive. That will be something to take into consideration unless you already have an electronic dashboard. 600 SRAD had 320mm discs for some reason but the USD 750 had 310 so you're good there

Really not sure about any of this (especially EFI ), you have more experience with these lumps than me. However this is the ignition signal setup on a 1400 : Looks familiar enough

Ah yes indeed the cam sensor too. Fuel pump would be easy enough. But anyways, initial theory was about carbing a 1400 and that would be a cool gig

Nope. It's your bitchbag attitude that got you the type of reactions you got. But i'll answer your question again : if you have a leak at the headgasket area, it's probably mainly because the headgasket has failed. Surely you're able to realise, that even IF the O rings have failed, it cannot realistically result in the headgasket leaking, IF said headgasket is in solid condition. Eitherway, you still need to fix all the top end. But@no classvery nicely gave you the same albeit less detailed reponse earlier, so be nice and go buy a top end gasket set, and just fix your bike like everyone else in your situation has done before

Well if you know everything just get on with it

Yeah i agree but for turbo maybe ?

So that would mean you could do a basic EFI conversion on a GSXR or GSF using the 1400 ECU etc

Yeah thats what i'm thining. I mean, if the crank fitting dimension of both rotors is the same, it's got to be just a question of timing. Maybe

Couldn't it just be the head gasket ? You'll be changing the O rings as well anyway. Buy genuine gaskets if you want the job to last

Hi Was randomly wondering whether the GSX 1400 could be fitted with a GSXR/GSF ignition plate and rotor, in order to easily run it with a stripped down electrical system using matching ECU and carbs ? Or would it be a much more invested technical project to convert ?

Measured 5mm on the same cog. And, tooth count on that shaft, from left to right : 1 : 43 2 : 29 3 : 30 4 : 33 5 : 28 6 : 35

Kat one will definitely be different by quite a few details, although based on my experience at least all the wire colour coding is the same from 1980 to at least 1998 on all Suzukis

750 will be the same i'd say

Looks like your cog has had some machine work on it because this is what the one i've got looks like :

The guy who has the RF channel on YouTube said this regarding clutch : I'll get some pics of the cogs for you to compare to what you've got

It slots in ok but indeed i do also note a 10mm shorter shaft on the clutch side. Other than that everything matches up so far

I have no idea However, quoting top HP figure resistance is one thing, but, how often does an engine get pushed and kept at its peak HP ? On a road used bike these days, i'd say, not often ? So if it's in decent shape as is, you should be OK for quite some ?

I have a W gearbox with hollow shaft arriving this week, i'll be able to supply comparison material