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Joseph

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Everything posted by Joseph

  1. I'm not Prince William so Airtech is a bit out of budget We got 2 sets from Raggededge, i suppose the original fairings were built for quite a tiny race factory made frame, and the fairings available were moulded from the original race fairings ? I seem to have managed to get somewhere since i posted, (tbh i completely overlooked the raised LSL clip ons my mate had on the bike, they completely messed up perception of things) But still very confused as to how much of the undertray i seem to need to lop off for it to clear the exhaust : Basically the whole fairing needs to : - come up a bit - go back a bit - rotate slightly clockwise (it's slanted down/backwards at the mo) Only way this can be done is by chopping all the "race" extension off the rear of the undertray This bike (granted is a 750, and i don't know what exhaust header it's got) doesn't seem to have had that issue :
  2. Has anyone done this ? Because i'm helping a mate do it on his, but, it seems impossible ? Under tray can't not hit the front tyre, angle of said under tray doesn't allow to line up with the head fairing join line (15cm gap at the rear) Comparing to photos online i can't see it matching at all
  3. Slingshot taps have two feed spigots and one vacuum spigot.
  4. Nope, but they just fit like standard carbs you can't go wrong
  5. Right, well, after testing 2 other sets of coils, testing 2 other COP looms, and 2 other ECUs, AND checking that all the wires apparently have continuity, i still had no sparks on 1 and 4. So today i unwrapped half the loom from the back, up to the coil plug under the tank, replaced everything from that plug to the ECU with uninterrupted new wires and as it stands it is back to normal use. I'm guessing there was a breakage or some kind of issue in the previous set up, i must say i spliced and soldered an OE loom to suit my new apparatus layout, so maybe something vibrated off or corroded slightly. It's probably going to be dead when i try it out tomorrow but until then
  6. I used as standard, with the 2 lines to each pair of carbs and the vacuum line plugged into one of the carbs take offs
  7. I found that as far as flow goes the stock tap was ok on my 1216+cams and RS38
  8. I know. This is really pissing me off right now.
  9. Hey ! I tried 2 other identical ECUs with no success the other day (before i replaced the coil loom that i thought had solved the issue fully), so i ruled out the ECU ? I have just checked continuity from the coil wires engine side to the coil ECU plug on the ECU side and it checks out
  10. The fuel system i have has a 10 mm brass spigot on a custom plate on the tank, feeding 2 8mm lines from a T connector. They go into two inline lever actioned universal petcocks, that then send to each pair of carbs. Up to the taps i am using thickwall auto fuel line, from the taps to the carbs i am using suzuki style fuel line in springs. I have looked and can't see bends. But if it was running on 2 cylinders because of fuel starvation surely it would be 1-2 or 3-4 ?
  11. Tourmax quality overall is iffy at best
  12. Riiighty So, somehow, the issue has reappeared. I rode a total of 75km yesterday, up to approx the 65 mark it went back to running on 2. I had to keep going like that for around 4-5 till i could stop safely, the engibe stalled obviously. Had a bit of trouble getting it to start, but, when it did, it started on all 4 and did the last few km perfectly.
  13. This COP setup has served me faultlessly for over 5000 km now, on a brand new 100% rebuilt engine Not exactly an electric engineer i followed several tutorials found online for the wiring diagram, and also selected coils that as per same tutorials gave 1.5 ohm each (OE coils give 3 i think ?) So I basically cannot explain the hows and whys i did what i did, but i did follow common sense advice. This initial COP loom i made however was done by cutting up and resoldering a Yamaha loom, maybe dampness or my shoddy worksmanship or both did something over time ? I remade a full loom with brand new plugs and uninterrupted new wires, so i'm hoping that will serve me well ? @Kamikaze: exactly, thats why these OSS are all i use and will ever use, nothing ever fails on them, right ?
  14. Right ! Thanks for your input. Flow to the carbs i did doubt, because of the running fine then breaking down / choking out after a seemingly similar distance ridden However, i do not have a petcock in the tank anymore, and all the lines were changed yesterday. However it seems like @Gixer1460won the prize again, I tried another stick coil loom i have, and it is now running on all four right away Need to wait till day to make a test ride but hopefully thats all it was. I made a brand new stick coil loom just now with brand new connectors, the original one that i made was done with a Yamaha item that i cut and soldered so maybe that packed up somewhere beneath the tape wrap ? I'll keep you posted. I must say that it did start rather much better also maybe due to the brand new terminals in the ECU plugs ?
  15. Hey. I will check those @Kamikazebut extra info to add : After cleaning up the ECU terminals i managed to get a healthy start up/rev/running Went well just a bit then started playing up. Let it rest, started it up. I've got 1 and 4 exhaust pipes that are cold. Changed ECU by another same one but i have the same problem.
  16. Right. This bike can't do this to me, it's my only transportation '91 1100 1216 OE ECU, +4 degree advance Stick coils RS38 carbs Symptoms : started fine the other day hadn't seen the road for around 5 weeks. It started running rough after a few miles, as if it was running out of fuel. It wasn't, but i added fresh fuel to the few liters that were left in it. That didn't help or hinder. I tried different (known) stick coils and it started well, but again, similar rough running occured I checked the plugs on the ECU, i replaced all the spades, some were loose, some were oxidised, but that doesn't seem to have been an issue. The other day on the way home after filling up it was running badly, but all of a sudden went fine, for about a kilometer then went back into limp mode. I checked the carb bowls and main jets, but nothing seemed out of order. Checking in the carbs they spray fuel when you open up Today since i've had more time i checked the spark plugs which are perfect coffee chocolate colour, and all of the coils give a good blue spark when tested on the head with a plug (writing this i realise i didn't do the test with the actual plugs) Any ideas ? It seems to be getting air fuel and sparks, but now it's packed up it just won't start at all
  17. The linkage is the same on the more common 92-93 "banana" arm, in case you find a 94-95 braced one without
  18. Just fyi measured the one i have it's 32cm from shoulder to end of thread
  19. Why aren't you using the GSX 1100 spindle that matches the arm ? It's 20mm diameter same as the GSXR isn't it not ?
  20. Oh and don't bother with any of those magic fluids supposed to improve cooling. Physics are physics, the most efficient coolant is pure water. But of course, it's freezing and corrosive properties need blocking out, hence using anti freeze. All those expensive alternatives are just marketing ploys. With a clean block and good radiator it should be fine. People often blame the initial design of a vehicles cooling system without considering the current condition of it 30 or 40 years down the line.
  21. -Mikuni RS will do fine -Will you need 1000 extra rpm for street use ? Not sure the 11s like overrevving too much/too often, but then again how often do you redline your streetbike ? -95-96 1100 swingarm has the brace AND the same length as your current one. The 750 is highly sought after so its is highly expensive as well as 5cm shorter. You may not want a shorter arm on a big bore 1100 -200 tyre is probably unnecessary, people don't seem to keep using them on those few bikes that were delivered with them as stock fitment. -I have a 6 speed on my 1216 oiler with cams carbs ported head etc and i love the feel and action. It hasn't blown up either, I think that the lifespan of the 6 speed box is always challenged when put in an 11, but it's a good mod i feel. I don't drag or track race my bike and it is holding up no problem
  22. Actually they are better than good ! I have used all 4 side panels for a katana resto and side panels and seat rail things for my 1980 GSX and their parts are exact to the size and every detail of the Original (cracked) bits I had. (Even down to the scriptures/part numbers on the back) CMSNL sells them off as real OEM
  23. Yeah i saw that, well, the OE suppliers stock them, with a mark up
  24. Only ones doing repro is LPM low pressure moulding. They supply the suppliers of "OE" parts
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