Joseph

If they did them in stainless it would be awesome. Mine rusted out in under a year, had to have it dechromed and cerakoted

Yep that does confirm my previous post Starter motor O rings : on the 29.9mm shaft motor : 24.5x3 On the 39.9mm shaft motor : 34x3 the norm for O-ring measure being the ID x thickness it is obviously possible for this kind of fitment to use round instead of square section rings, oil leakage if any cannot be major

The pale orange add to cart button means they are NLA on that website

This is what you need for the alternator https://www.123roulement.com/joints-OR-83X2-NBR70

Yeah that can't be an ideal setup. Again simple small RS carbs should open it up without confusing the airflow

Yep but that allows to use a very big oil cooler only when needed. The EFE can run without that postcard sized cooler as long as its moving, so a thermostatic system would be the best for what @Spiritis facing

https://www.mishimoto.eu/mishimoto-in-line-thermostat.html

Yes, thats the idea behind the low HP and good torque i guess. When i mention converting to carbs i was thinking something like RS36 ?

Apart from the lower mounts it bolted into my 750 frame so i'm guessing bolt in mod + retain OE airbox even, in an 1100

Official Mikuni supplier in europe : https://www.mikuni-topham.de/ENGLISHSITE/ENGLISH/Frame_English.html Maybe Frank MX parts has parts ? Otherwise AliExpress supplies a lot of whats needed to rebuild BST carbs. Obviously you have to work a bit to verify things

On cmsnl.com you can check on the microfiche for part numbers and vehicle application for given part

Start by fitting the Unit where you want it then rig up the battery ground and Ignition switch to power it. An inline fuse would be good to protect the unit from the power coming from the switch, i think the manual states that. Then connect all your accessories to the output side of the unit, here you can cut/keep the wires from your loom to retain the OE colour coding You can probably use the ground line from the original loom, unwrap it and lay the black/white multiwire jobbie through the bike to see whats what Once you've done that it'll be a matter of powering all the bits via the input side of the Unit. But start with that and take it from there. Unless you use the fancy expensive items that Nick mentioned, you'll hardly have fewer wires on the bike once finished

Well it's a pig of a job, you say it yourself in this same sentence

Wow, i've trawled through the manual, it seems intensely more complicated than the standard wiring. Although it does feature cool options for minimalistic equipped bikes (same push button for start and kill is kinda cool among other tricks) But looking at it, the unit tells you what input and output feeds what function. I would start by wiring all the ouputs (lights, horn, dash lights etc) because they just need the switched 12v and a ground connection, more or less, and then deal with the input side, because the switches will need common switched 12v to feed the accessories Obviously fit all the stuff on the bike and take it from there But you will need to refer to the original loom a bit in order to build this unit into the bike

Don't you need to feed 12V from the battery into the unit then pull the wires to each item from there ? It's a total rewire from what i've seen of them. That said I have never used them because i don't see the point of them, seeing how simple the factory system is You'll need to retain the ECU of course and I suppose the starter relay ? I can help you out if you can get the instructions to me. Wiring bikes and electricity is one of the rare things i'm good at

Well you're going to end up using almost as many wires anyway, the bikes accessories all still need to be energised It basically replaces your fuse box and flasher relay

I wouldn't vouch for Motion Pro as far as quality of their goods goes

Right It's also the first oil change i've done since the running in change and engine had total rebuild. that was around 4500km ago

Ok ! Thanks for the tips. Indeed engine specs i could have mentioned, it's my ported 1216 with 6speed box... It's supposed to take me on my holiday trip tomorrow

https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/chainlength.html

Bear in mind the slingshot frame has stubs moulded into the frame, that the subframe tubes push onto before being welded. Obviously this was for strength purposes, should be able to do without but worth mentioning. You could always reweld the stops on the new frame, weld fill the frame number stamp and restamp it

12mm

Also bear in mind that the fact that the original cooler is curved adds a lot of overall surface compared to the flat slabside one. Worth considering when buying an aftermarket one, that although in looks is bigger may not offer more

https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/archives/738