dupersunc

Ah, my sisters neighbour, small world. Are you still after some cheap 6 pots?

Did that come from down my way Garry?

pooftas the lot of you.get some fcr41s on there.

Talon or rental do 520 sprockets to suit both ends. front sprocket is the same as Kawasaki zx10r and 6r as well as loads of other Suzuki.

I've been spoke to Maxton about their sp20 cartridge kit which is @£500 plus fitting which takes a bit of machining @£140, springs £80 then new stantions @£180, bushes, oil, seals etc. all plus vat. I've just sourced a brand new pair of rf900 fork legs at a good price, the seller recommended Ktech cartridge kit over the Maxton, which is similar money.

Bike looks great Mark. Glad your friends has regained consciousness. now let's have the Donington write up.

I'm trying to get this ready for a trip to Portimao in early October, but it may have to wait until Jerez in early December for it's debut. To get it built in time I'm going to fit the Mistral built ex sidecar 1216cc motor I have on the shelf for this year, and build the 1052 based motor for next year. I have just about everything on the shelf to build this up now, though some parts are still in sheet and tube form. The one stumbling block is the forks. I have a set of gsxr 750 j forks and yokes. The yokes are ok for now, I'll press in the Harris stem, and shave the castings down. once I'm happy I know what offset I want, I can decide if I want a pukka set of Harris yokes. The fork legs them selves though need £1000-1200 throwing at them to get them to the spec that's worth having. I can't afford that currently. I'm hoping for a tour round Classic team Suzuki workshops wearing a coat with very long pockets.

So, been a bit slack with this, but sourced lots of odds and ends, mostly stuff like bearing bolts, and fastners, oil line fittings, oil cooolers, shit that all adds in £££. Spent some time machining up new spacers and bits for the engine mounts, and lots of bosses for mounts on the frame. Also scored some XR69 bodywork. Today I saw an old boy wandering past the workshop, who looked like he's 112 so probably old enough to know how to Bronze weld. Footwear is standard workshop attire round these parts. New lower engine mount bushes going in. Fortunately Nick's dementia shakes mean his hands wobble at the perfect frequency to lay down lovely bronze fillets. Subframe put back to originalish spec. New Oil cooler mounting bosses. Exhaust hanger mounts

Set fire to it. but let me have the front sprocket cover first.

If they are in there, leave them be, but if you're starting from scratch, alloy will be better in the long run. If you start using the bike in all weathers and leave it out in the rain, then eventually the alloy will corrode around the stainless rivnuts at an accelerated rate.

Stick to Alloy rivnuts, to avoid galvanic corrosion.

Excellent. Can you get one in 520 pitch, 48t? Duncan.

There is no decrease in flow if filters are oiled. That's incorrect. Some of the large Cone type K&N filter have a bell mouth moulded in.

Oiled filters and wet weather don't go well together, on the race cars we ran the same foam filters but un oiled in wet conditions. Oiled foam in dry conditions. You end up with an emulsion forming in the filter in the wet if they were oiled, which was bad for flow. These were on some of the most sophisticated inlet set-ups ever devised. The issue of pressure waves bouncing off the cap on the K&Ns is interesting, and I'm sure a real phenomenon at WOT, of little significance at part throttle openings. Bell mouths are always the best way to go, as the radius, a full 180 degree rad is best, makes the flow better and create a pressure signal before the Filter. I run Slingshot bell mouths in Ram air twin filters, it's the best compromise I feel. an air box and panel filter is a better solution where possible.

Can some one measure up the rear sprocket on a Slabbie and or a early slingshot with the 4.5" rear wheel. Need to know the centre bore and the bolt pcd. I have a set of CMA wheels from a slabbie, which I need to order a new rear sprocket for, I suspect it's the same fitment as one of the above but can't be sure. @gsxr884Are you a Renthal/Talon dealer?would you have this info to hand? Thanks Duncan.

My point still stands.

Don't need to see behind you if your going faster than everyone else.

Nice bike that, did you sell it?

With the wisecos and the smaller Dot chamber, the cr will be too high, the valve to piston clearance will be marginal too.

Good luck.

Bandit Sump is shallow like the slabbie.

Should fit fine, the sump is the biggest issue, and they're interchangeable.

It should do, as long as you use the correct length push rod.

I think I'm going to leave bare for the time being, just keep it coated with wd40 or the worth equivalent, a quick wipe down after each day s running should be enough. As you say leaving them bare makes it easier to check for and repair cracks, already spotted a couple of bits of braze that need repairing. I really hate it when people clear coat frames like this, make repairs and inspection needlessly tricky. It I do give up on keep rust at bay it will be painted in a pale grey that will show up any cracks that do appear more easily.