dupersunc

Nathan spent a lot of time playing stiffer springs and preload spacers on the clutch pressure plate. They didn't get the chance to try stiffer slipper springs. My plan is to get stiffer slipper springs made up. As you say it will be a truck to balance slip on over run and grip on drive. The plan is to put this clutch in my slabbie race bike along with your old Upperton head and some 81mm wisecos. and have a play. The Harris is on the back burner at the moment, as I don't have the cash to do it how I want. I think I'm going to build it as a fast road bike now.

As has been said, cam links are a waste of time. A cylinder head cooler plumbed into the Y pipe on the back of the block and cam cover is a must on a race bike.

Chinese radial brake levers. The plunger is often too long or poorly machined so it preload the piston covering the bleed port to the reservoir. All seems good till 19 miles down the road, the fluid heats up and expands locking the brakes. Had one do this, though I spotted the issue before I left my workshop. Heard numerous instance of this causing problems.

Correct. that's why Nathan gave it too me. Simple enough fix.

Chinese make aircraft parts, nuclear power plants and all sorts of safety critical stuff that has to past international standards. Such parts aren't very much cheaper than stuff sourced in Europe, If it cost pennies ask your self how much quality control has gone into the design, materials selection and QA. Like wise with Chinese billet levers, they look good, and often are mabe from decent material, doesn't mean they aren't badly designed machined so they'll lock your front brakes solid at 80mph. common sense needed here guys.

48t is stock for gsxr1100s

qa throttle is must have on a race bike.

That looks like a Harris built arm, rather than a factory XRO. XRO bikes were customer face bikes. Harris ran the factory wsbk in the early days, before Alstare. The full factory bikes were way tricker than the XRO bikes.

Need a slingshot crank pickup and trigger.

Srad race kit stuff was xro5,6,7,8,9 not xr0 (zero). Harris ran them in wsb in that era, so I'd start with them. I'll pm you the name of another chap who may be able to help.

Srad wheel will work. chain line is the tricky bit. You need need to machine around 10mm of the sprocket carrier.

So Jerez was Epic. Ended up knocking nearly 3 seconds of my PB with a 1:57.06. Day 3 ended just before lunch when I got hit up the arse by an ex Josh Brooks BSB R1 going into the last turn. R1 bloke went down, I carried on for 3 corners then thought I had a rear puncture. Tyre was fine.... Ran out of brakes chasing Hamilton in the afternoon of day2, bleed the brakes to fix, but an upgrade is needed here. Important thing is I was still quicker than my mate/arch nemesis Theo, on his modern R6. Theo grenaded his motor 2months before trying to beat me at Portimao. There has been much sledging since about who would be fastest at Jerez. I was towing him round when we Both did our PBs, hence his big straight line speed advantage in the speed trace below. I could keep him behind me and catch him a little on the straights, where as a Portimao he was wasting me. The cams and carbs have helped, but I still don't think I have much more than 125bhp. work required there too then. Going through the data from Jerez. Fucked up the last corner on my best lap, lost 0.2s to the previous lap. Found 0.3s in turns 2-3 on the last day by changing my line, there's another 0.2.-0.3s in 3 other corners. Low 1:56's there already. Next year I need to; Brake later into t1 Be braver into T5, Brake a touch later and turn in slightly later for T7. Roll off later, and brush the brake for T11, rolling early and not braking currently. Turn in a touch later for T12. Lean my head and shoulders further from the centre of the bike when cornering Bike; Sort wobbly swingarm/frame issue Fit 1216cc motor and slipper clutch. Fit Brembo 4pot calipers. increase front compression damping to improve feel on turn in. Make alloy tank, that is lower and carries the fuel further back. This will a) reduce weight, b)help me to tuck in lower on the straights, c) help me hang off the bike more, as currently my outer arm has to stretch over the tank. Fuck it, that's got a be a 1:54.

They don't look like oil boiler carbs?

This. ^^. If you have a long stroke bottom end which the slabbie was originally, the short stroke dot head won't fit. Cam chain tunnel is different. A 1990 head is a good start as is a set rs38 carbs. most Original carbs are worn out. After market cams and slotted pulleys to time them correctly. A programmable ignition and a cylinder head cooler are worth when if you want to get the most out of it too.

Dutch at MkII, works/worked at Airtech.

It'll more than likely be fine. done similar a couple of times with I'll effects.

Look fantastic. I'm sorted for now, but will be after one of you rrk seat units in the new year.

Day 2 at Jerez. It is epic. Currently 2.5 seconds slower than Lewis Hamilton on £250k worth or WSBK Yamaha R1.

The rake is the axis which the forks pivot about. You don't change that with yokes, unless they go with some very trick offset bearing cup inserts in the frame.

You wont change the rake with custom yokes, only the trail.

Hi Mark, I'm dropping my bike of at Swindon on Saturday morning. I could pop in on the way back and pick up little Bertha.

Was the Suzuki built Bandit challenge bike there Mark? It looks great in the pics I've seen of it.

Not my bike unfortunately.

I'm sure they are anodized.

Aren't they anodized from the factory. there can't be much silicone in the alloy other wise the anodized would be "sooty". biggest problem will be finding an anodizer with a big enough tank.