dupersunc

Sounds like you have the right idea.

Top Work! It's amazing how hard it is to remember to breath when you're racing.

Standard £5 Eblag jobs will do. I run them on my 1127 no problem. Doesn't cause any issues with a standardish motor.

Someone has done a neat job of converting it to those fittings, but if the tapered seat is marked they won't seal. looks like you need a new cooler at the very least.

Never ever any need to run ptfe tape on those JIC fittings. Thread form is unf. AN-6 are 19/16" unf AN-8 are 3/4" unf AN-10 are 7/8" unf

I've booked the Sunday. I'll be there on Saturday waiting vulture like for a track space to appear. Happy to have my bike on the stand otherwise. Duncan.

Make the kit up yourself. Torques UK on Eblag do all the fittings and hoses.

Stock 1127 motor in my track bike. Head cooler plumbed into the circuit from the pump to the back of the cam cover. Makes a significant difference even on a stock motor. You can't go too big on this.

No. Spike at Ragged edge to a mould off some airtech fairings made for the 91 AMA Yoshi Suzuki race bikes.

Those fittings shouldn't have ptfe tape anywhere. most likely there is BSP to JIC adaptor in the cooler that needs replacing. cooler BSP, oil line JIC. If you go on the Goodridge website there will be a chart to help you identify sizes.

90-91 AMA super bike fairing on a bike that's in a pre 86 class with a late 70s P&M seat unit. Aesthetically it looks a mess.

Don't forget you have a different primary ratio on the 750 when working out your gearing.

Functional doesn't need to be ugly.

It's a tool, and very trick, but it's no beauty.

The swap is easy, it's in the archive section of the site. Drill shaft for clutch. Swap output shaft bearings about, and I used a 1052 slabbie clutch inner hub and cover in a Bandit basket. That's it. The spread of ratios in the 6speed box is no wider than the five speed box though. It's designed to keep the peaky 750 motor in the power. It's a great swap for track use and racing as the 5 speed box ratios are more for touring, the higher gear ratios are too widely spaced the lowers too close. If you want to cruise at a lower rpm , fit a 43t rear sprocket or a 16t front. Much simpler and cheaper way of achieving your aims.

Playing about with gearing commander. https://www.gearingcommander.com/ GSXR 1100 wn geared for 201mph. 180/60 tyre and 16/39 final drive @10500rpm Standard. 1st 76.9 mph at 10500. 2nd 115.4 mph at 10500 750 ratio in in 1100 box 1st 72.8 mph at 10500 2nd 101.4 mph at 10500. So by going to the trouble of swaping gears, you get a 1st gear that is 4mph shorter, and horrible rev drops between 1st,2nd and 3rd gears. Further more 1st and 2nd are the most stressed gears so fitting the narrower 750 versions is the last thing to do with a heavily tuned motor if you want the gears and shafts to live.

Do you mean like on the Kawa H2?

Mechanically driven supercharger. Big gobs of torque at low revs where it's difficult to modulate and wrecks tyres.

Always struck me that a supercharger has totally the wrong power delivery for a bike unless you have a lot of electronic intervention.

It's always cheaper to start with a complete bike rather than buying one a bolt at a time.

I guess £350-400 from Hagon, maybe a touch less. could spend double that with Maxton depending on how fancy you want to get. They need the motion ratio. The difference between the wheel movement and the damper stroke. Support the bike on axles stands on the foot pegs at ride height,then remove the rear shock. Get some 5mm ply wood and chop it into 15 10cm square blocks. Measure the distance between the top shock mount and the damper mount on the linkage. put one of the 5mm blocks under the rear wheel and 're measure again the distance between shock mounts. Add another 5mm block under the wheel and repeat. You'll end up with 15 measurements for each 5mm of wheel movement. You'll also need to give the shock manufacturer the weight of the bike on the rear wheel. Use a set of bathroom scales for this. Plus the rear unsprung weight. Again bathroom scales under the rear wheel with the bike supported and the rear shock removed.

Well with an arm that long, the spring and damping rates will be well out with any of the more conventional swops. No one will be able to advise on what you need with out some info on the motion ratios on your set-up. Speak to hagon or Maxton.

Good point.

It does make a difference. On my 750m and my 750 slabbie a 520 chain just clears using a 180/60 tyre, with a 530 on the 750m it wore away a little of the tyres shoulder.

I've used Timesert spark plug repair kits on mine. Makes them better than new. Any half decent bike shop should have a kit.