dupersunc

I believe that the lights were only there for Japanese championship regulations. Most endurance races in period never ran in the dark, only dusk, so lighter was better. European races were more likely to run through the night.

The post will be $400.

Your old fairing was sacrificed to make a new mould. It wasn't very well made to be honest, not a problem for me, but it meant it was destroyed once a mould was taken from it. A few bikes have appeared with them fitted since, which is cool. It adds more variety to the oil cooled scene.

The mk2 bike and fairing was sold unfinished to pay bills. it is being built into a race bike by an experienced builder hopefully it will appear soon. I still have another set fairing.

My 750m and 750l both had 6 bolt sprockets.

No. They are different. 4.5 takes same sprocket as slabbing. 5.5 takes 6bolt fixing.

Yes. Ive done it on mine. Made a new link pipe and added a more modern 60mm remus can. 102db on msv noise testing kit.

So after 31 years and unknown mileage, the motor finally cried enough whilst a 9000rpm on the run up to the bomb hole at Snetterton yesterday. Sounds like a big end. Brakes were shocking yesterday, despite a rebuilt Brembo Mc. Sourced some adaptors to fit a pair or brembo calipers I have. So brakes sorted. Motor wise I need a good crank, and a set of busa con rods to go with the 1216 kit, big valve head and yoshi cams that I have.

Worked well on my 750m.

Properly designed silencers don't cause any restriction. They can be quite heavy though. Please stop using back pressure in reference to 4stroke exhausts. It makes my teeth itch. Saying a 4-2 system has more resistance to flow ( I guess that's what you are saying) is such a generalisation as to have no relevance to the discussion.

And cam timing, inlet length, exhaust length and diameter. etc etc. To the OP. These Suzuki engines aren't that sensitive, if the basic are right. Make sure your carbs are in good working order, i.e. no blocked pilot jets, pilot circuit, float heights set correctly, float needles sealing, good plugs. If all that is correct the bike should run half decent. though pod filters will inevitable leave a fluffy area around 5k. Modern fuels are a main with carbs though. The pilot jets quickly get blocked if left standing for any time and can be a pig to clean properly. Modern fuels also Don t leave much of a clue on plugs either so plug chops are a waste of time too. Get the basics sorted, one that's right, by all means try the jets suggested but the only real way to sort it properly is a dyno and an operator that understands carbs.

The front sprocket always ends up in the wrong place on this conversions. A 1098 OR 1198 motor makes far more sense.

You need a standard bottom bearing and om of these for the top. https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/Tapered-roller-bearings-30x47x12-mm/291457610520?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648 Then the Srad yokes go straight in, save for a bit of fiddling with lock stops. Not sure on lengths tough.

W and slingshot linkages have the same geometry. but the bolt and bearing sizes are different. Iirc simplest way is to use the slingshot shock and w linkage. Then it all bolts together no hassle, Just need to sleeve the swingarm pivot. Worth running 10-15mm shorter dog bones to raise the rear is you want the chassis to handle really nicely.

15/48 is standard gsxr1100 gearing. 15/47 is stock 1200 bandit. I think. I run 14/48 usually. good for 150mph and wheelies off the throttle.

Bandit or slingshot 1127 basket and slabby 1052 hub, cover and plates. I seem to remember that's what I used.

That's the trick. It bolts in easy once you figure it out. I did have a few how the fuck does the work moments when doing mine though.

Got them fitted to a stock 1127 with a set of Kent cams. It runs Beautifully. No bogging, or any of that nonsense, it just pulls. it's a track bike so it lives at high revs, big throttle openings, and I only have a 1/8 turn throttle, but it seems perfectly happy riding round the paddock too.

Hello. from the 1990's.

Nothing. I believe it is off a 1990 gsxr750L. but it is essentially the same as the 85-87 heads, so should be a straight swap.

I have a half decent 750 long stroke head with valves you can have if you sort shipping. Duncan.

4 degrees is plenty, more and you take the edge off the dog too easily, and it makes shifting slower. You normally only start pissing about with this stuff if you have other issues.

Are Suzuki wrong? Best tell them.

What ever Suzuki machined them at.