dupersunc

Wurth do a spark plug thread repair kit that is the right size thread for a gsxr sump plug. its a copper alloy version of a timesert. they work a treat.

Meh. Extra weight. stiffen one area and you but more load into another area.

Often done that way on race bikes. both crank and cam cover breath into same catch tank, put the crank case breather in the bottom of the tank so any oil vapour spat out of the cam cover can condense and drain back to the crankcase. Make sure you have a vent to atmosphere on the breather and that I has a filter on it to prevent shit getting in through the vent and contaminating the oil.

Do you have a spare NRC starter case for sale then Clive?

Just swap the pick up over to the 1200 lump from the current motor and enjoy.

Yes, swap in but use the 1100 cam sprockets. stock timing marks will work as a start point. cam caps are matched to head not cams.

1100 slabbie knuckle. or R1 shock.

I thought the tank was a recent Alf Mosel creation? Not that it really matters.

1/3 the price of a dyna 2000 and 10x the functionality.

The valves and cams just aren't big enough to pull past 10000rpm in the high gears. I always run 750 cdi on my 7/11s, I like so have the extra revs in lower gears. The bandit motors are built more cheaply than the gsxr motors though. so not sure they take the abuse so easily. £180 on a ignitech and there quickshifter is a no brainer though, and makes even more sense with flatslides and big bore kits.

The tank was made by Parker Fabrications (who make the Tanks for Harris now) in Bournemouth in the Mid 90s, the original was damaged when the bike fell off the back of an AA lorry! I believe it is an Srad BSB spec tank, with the bottom reshaped to fit the frame, though Parkers can't remember. It is beautifully made though, and never had fuel in as far as I can tell. I don't like the shape though, so it will be replaced. Lets seem some pictures of yours please.

Just make sure your battery is big enough. If you are running a Lithium type battery, you will get no warning it's going flat. The batteries internal circuitry will shut it down before it goes below 10.5 volts to stop it damaging itself. With a conventional battery it will just get a worse and worse misfire as the voltage drops.

Sacrifice some farm animals to your chosen god.

I will use Vacuum cleaner drive belts if I can find them still. that's what we're used in period on race cars and bikes. Otherwise it will be some thick viton o rings .

I think he means the pipes on the front of the block. Are the 1052 and 1127 blocks the same height?

Final dry build begins.

Actually it's a for an SB8, need my eyes checked

Courtesy of @Gsxrsam.

Only loosely bolted together and a few spacer yet to be made.

@Delboy

You'll need a 2k laquer at least if you want it fuel tolerant.

Just print some off...

Spacing is different. A lot of faffing to make them fit.

Chassis wise, I sold the ohlins shock it came with, it was pretty old and knackered. Turns out it was from a Ducati 888, so got good money for it. I've replaced it with a Maxton Gp10 I bought from Classic team Suzuki since they now use Ktech on there TT bike. I still need to sort some fork internals, but next expenditure will be the yokes. I've modelled them up and hopefully will get them machined up in the next month or so. Just need to fitt the 3d printed versions I've made to check clearance first. Also modelled up the wheels so I can design the rear disc and caliper hanger, and wheel spacers. I've cleared the decks now to start the build proper. There will be a short hiatus as I bugger off to New Zealand for six weeks in 10 days time. I do hope to source some coils and hopefully some exhaust headers whilst I'm there though.