dupersunc

Del's still active I believe. His son Mark certainly is. http://hejiraracing.co.uk

Bugger. Sorry to hear that. It looked shiny. The seller seemed to have 2 others.

Only what I've read on line. That pic was from an Eblag advert from a few years ago. Original Harris f1 frame that had been modified by Del Chittenden, of Hejira fame, to take the slingshot swingarm and bespoke linkage. Looks like its had some repair around the headstock from the scorch marks. The finished bike looked good. Modified slabby tank?

@R1guythis is the bike that was on Eblag the other day.

Try without the clutch. I find shifts are smoother and much faster. It's how they are designed to work. It's not a syncro box like a car

The ratchet pawls and springs behind the clutch are worth checking. Other wise its split cases and check the forks and dogs. Do use the clutch on up shifting? Normally a roll of the throttle and firm tap on the lever is enough for the gears to slip in a treat. Clutching slows everything down too much.

10mm iirc on the dog bones.

My 750m with 1127 motor had the rear jacked up 30mm. WP rear shock, 180/60 rear tyre. Front was stock but with 9.5 springs. Ran no steering damper, never felt the need. Certainly wasn't twitchy.

6mm cold rolled steel will be fine. The m model gsxr 750 had an adaptor between frame and fairing bracket. I assume this is so they can use the fair bracket on the 1100 and 750. The whole top fairing and side panels are different between the 1100 and 750 to allow for the different handlebar positions.

Shorten the dog bones. It's the most effective way and has little effect on the rest of the system. Your set up is a little awkward but but get some new bone water jet cut 10mm shorter and get a space machine up to go between them. Dont need to be welded together. At the front can you fit the 750 fairing bracket adaptor top fairing to clear the handlebars. More ride height definetly helps with handling. 180/60 rear works well too.

The problem with the slabby arm is that you can't get enough ride height to stop the bike touching the fairing down when cornering hard on track especially if you run 17" wheels. You can fit different or modified links and longer shocks but the limiting factor is the linkage necking out before you get the ride height you need. I run less sag on the rear to help but it makes the rear unstable under braking. Some people modify the frame to take a slingshot linkage and arm. @clivegtohas done a neat mod to the stock slabby link so he can run a slingshot or bandit arm with custom dog bones. Both solutions allow more ride height I've also seen people modify the slabbie arm to give more rear ride height but keep the stock linkage.

Do you run a head cooler?

Wet for the first session, the 5 glorious warm dry sessions. Got into the 55s, which turns out isn't bad. still feel rusty and leaving loads of time on the table. Let a friend have a go too.

Brands this week.

Dragged the old girl out for a open pit lane day at Snetterton yesterday. First proper run for the new motor since the Jerez washout, and my first outing on track this year and only second time on a bike since I broke my shoulder. Needless to say we were rusty. Enough of the excuses though The motor is stonking though. It's crude, it snarls, it spits. It's an animal Can't quite keep up with the latest 1000cc bikes but it's at least a match for anything pre 2012 on Snets long straights. We get great drive out of the corners but the chassis is too crude and ties it's self in nots outof 2and gear turns. Fun day though. had the legs on all but the pesky blue r1

Fair enough. All the slingshots and bandits have a separate feed though.

All oil boilers have a dedicated black and red wire to send a signal from the CDI to the Tacho. It doesn't go near the coils.

The 3 pin connector on the back of the rev counter is susceptible to corrosion . That would be the first thing to check.

ahem. :-)

It's the oil pump drive that's bolloxed.

Ignore most of the dimensions as it's for my harris, but the threads are the same as 88-91 Gsxr1100.

That's as stiff as you'd want to go on the road imho. I think they are7.0 nm stock. I ran 9.5 nm in my srad years ago. Did a pikey revalve of the forks, and slightly thicker oil. It was mint.

The 600 forks are good forks. The springs are very soft though. I don't think the 750 springs are any stiffer. Stiffer springs should be easy to source for either.