Gixer1460

Whilst many turbobikes have been built around GS1000 / GS1100 / GS1150 (or GSX1100 / GSX1100EFE) whilst strong, their press together cranks are their weakness and require rebuilding, welding new bearings for safety as even low boost can move them. Also there is the oil supply issue which, whilst can be improved with 750 pump gears, it doesn't provide excess pressure which would be an advantage. A slightly reworked GSXR 1100 or GSF 1200 makes a good base for boost, easily safe to 250hp in stock'ish form - forged pistons are a good upgrade whatever boost you plan, rods if you want to go better than 250+hp and personally I'd choose EFI for simplicity of plumbing and control potential - its nearly as cheap as a decent rack of new carbs!

Search me ! I don't run an airbox!

Sounds about right although the Red ones aren't 'overflows' they vent the float bowls or no fuel would flow! If they were overflows, the way they are routed, neat fuel would be pouring down the bores before any dripped out of the pipe ends! They normally connect to the airbox!

Gasgacinch for both - copper head and aluminium spacer base, worked fine for me!

Try coming up with another shape that has 4 outlets in a line one side and 1 inlet the other (often not in line) is compact and easy to weld or cast? I've seen tube plenums but cutting radiuses and bevels is time consuming and never perform significantly better so why bother? I guess you could try 3D printing one - how it would withstand heat and pressure could be an issue?

And in Spain of all places - over cooling is pretty unlikely unless you are fitting a stupidly large, oversize cooler!

You just have to look at how the fuel gets to the cylinder from the carb - it gets centrifuged out through the turbo then dumped into a box with generally poor airflow paths, make a couple of 90 degree turns and it gets to the valves - hence why a wet mixture pre start is needed. Just use the 'right' carb and forget about complicated add-ons. Good turbo the T2, that was my first build - 1186cc, 10lb boost = 210hp S&S Shortie Super E. IHI's are good as well - i'm sure there was a 750 turbo build in the old Turbobike magazine - i'll dig it out and scan it, but I seem to remember it being a blow through!

Why would a CV carb be fitted with an accelerator pump as by its very function, it won't allow more air to be admitted to match fuel flow? And why faff around with primer pumps etc - that's what choke systems are for!

In theory you may be able to use a CV carb - they are designed to regulate airflow based on actual engine demand and not throttle position but how they would react once boost overcame vacuum would be anyone's guess! Due to the tortuous inlet tract of a draw through you usually need yo flood the plenum with fuel to get the damn things to fire up so a carb without a accel pump will be at a disadvantage IMO. Flat, round or square doesn't make much difference except on hi boost applications as the actual airspeed pushes on the slide 'wedging' it open - it's why you need strong return springs or a twin cable throttle to pull it shut!

Sean is a very convincing salesman! And I am a friend LOL!

You'd never guess . . . . . https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/forum/4-general-chat/ LOL! If this is like the 750ET - you've got a gear output 'switch' behind the sprocket cover, wires up to the instruments which has a series of bulbs - one for each gear and another for neutral. If some are lighting up they have power (the switch provides the earth) so bulbs could be blown? Wires broken? or switch terminals dirty?

Draw throughs are pretty 'old tech' these days - nothing wrong with that but they are hard work to get them running well. A 750 is quite small and to find a suitable turbo will be tricky as most info will be for litre / 1100+ sized engines - the turbo must be able to be fitted with carbon seals to minimise a 'smokey joe' on the over-run. HSR40 may be ok for a 750 - the larger 42 / 45 / 48 HSR's, 1.7/8", 2.1/8" S&S's are definitely better with the bigger capacities up to 1500+ cc! The HSR's seem to work better for a road bike - they seem to fuel better - S&S are great when drag racing. If I was to do another one, I'd junk the carb and fit a throttle body in its place and build injectors into the plenum to fire directly down the inlets, add a BOV on the plenum as a priority valve and allow use of a modern BB turbo and decent accurate fuel / ignition control - 'old skool' looks but with decent manners - lovely!

A company that does anodising / plating / chroming should be able to strip any previous dyes through the prep process - the biggest difficulty is finding someone having a bath / tank to fit a whole frame in and submerged in one go.

If you ain't a millionaire - who is? - then stick to bolt on goodies / easy stuff and leave the skilled stuff to people who can spend the dough! A simple port clean up with 80 / 120 grit emery through a stick as a flap wheel, take the casing marks out of the port and blend to inlet rubbers can be done at home and you could attempt the short turn radius but just blend it - leave the carbide burrs and die grinders alone. Bigger valves will require seat cutting anyway, so 3 angle cut is optimal. Wouldn't touch the chambers.

Usual causes for 'hanging rpm' is an air leak on engine side of the throttles or frayed throttle cable inner catching on the outer!

Why do you automatically assume they need changing? You don't know what size they actually are so why assume they are wrong? Pilots are very rarely touched by dyno guys as stock is usually close enough for anything! If the fault ONLY occurs when braking, it may not be carb related at all ? ? ?

Hmmm! IMO Class is out on valve guides. Personally i've never done it (cut them down) or felt the need to do it but I do like turbo's where valve support / heat transfer is more important. I wouldn't cut exhaust guides down whatever but bullets maybe ok (i've used tapered bronze guides)? No empirical evidence for increased wear with flattened guides but common sense says it can't be better than long guides!

I'm no 'engine builder' ! That's not to say I haven't built engines - the two aren't the same! Only you can answer the how's and where the engine is to be used, what you are prepared to accept and how long you want it to last with how much maintenance - all these things affect how the engine is or should be built! The piston manufacturer doesn't know if the chamber is std or worked on, stock height or decked - I'm guessing they may work backward from using a stock engine figures and change bore size and chamber volume - who knows, as they don't publish that info! As to the squish question - 1.0mm is regarded as a safe minimum for a road bike / light race bike which (if you want to risk it) can be tightened to 0.75 - 0.6mm but carries no guarantees especially if you buzz it!

You have to bear in mind that you don't know what spec the 'engine' was when the piston manufacturer calculated the CR the piston will / should give! I think a std 1127 engine has a chamber vol. of 26cc? so a half or a whole cc can make a difference especially if the eventual build gives a CR closer to 12.5 or 13:1? A dry build to fully cc the chambers and calculate the ACTUAL CR is well recommended. I built a 1186 kit years ago with 12.5 wiseco pistons and run with std chambers / un-decked head and 98 octane 4* leaded fuel that used to pink like a bastard during summer use - so beware. anything is possible.

Unless you have facilities to skim the head, I wouldn't touch the chambers as you will lose CR by doing so. Also if you are using 12:1 pistons the chamber volumes need to be accurately matched - easy to remove metal - tricky to add it back! If you are a 3rd world country what is the quality of your fuel like - not sure 12:1 CR will work too well with piss poor fuel? 30 / 26mm valves can use std. seats. What will the engine be used for as this will affect recommendations as regards porting / guides / valve seats / reliability / longevity / maintenance?

The chassis / engine number will relate to year/month it was built, but it may not have been sold until the next year which is what is noted on the V5! My Daily is on a 52 plate but is actually a 2001 model year.

That doesn't sound very cheap to me! There really isn't much to an anodising process - lots of degreasing / washing / caustic dipping / acid dipping / dyeing / washing etc. Most anodising dyes are 'flat' colours with a satin finish being the most blingy. One thing to note is that you will have to remove EVERY piece / bit of steel from the frame and the arm before as the corrosive chemicals will destroy them!

I read the words which make sense but still doesn't jive with slotting the plate! Having a 'fixed' timing is not unusual - it just infers that it stays at 10 degrees or whatever it's set to and won't be influenced by increased revs, coolant temps or whatever. If it does have a truly fixed timing - what is it ? because if you don't know, you could retard it past TDC! Daft system - supposing the engine idled at 700 rpm - what the hell would it be doing then? Is the system one of these? Just out of interest - http://www.racetechdev.co.uk/products.html - the EMX-01 seems a sophisticated device so the above seems strange!

If you have a mappable ignition . . . . . . . . why are you slotting the pick up plate as that'll change the entire map? Doesn't make sense - just adjust the cells below idle?

That's about right! . . . . . Next!