Gixer1460

Would deffo benefit from use of banjo's - size the banjo bolts same as the threaded adapter into the sump - its M14 or M16 ? ? ?

Insitu. If in the UK - Robinsons Foundry - OSS gets a discount if you quote OSS membership when ordering!

RTV - sparingly!

Unless the engine tune warrants a better ignition - then no!

Have a guess - clue's in the name! How do you fill empty float bowls when you have a vacuum tap ?

Likely culprit? - excessive water i'd say! All things electrical - coils, leads, plugs, CDI all suspects. Spray everything with WD40 - its actual real purpose - water dispersant and try tomorrow!

And 'prime' really isn't designed for running under load especially with a turbo!

FFS! - why would a FUEL TANK breather be situated in the top of the engine!

Wash them in salty water, let them corrode white, the clear coat ! LOL!

But as soon as boost builds there won't be vacuum - anywhere - so the tap will shut off flow and carbs will starve! In a turbo install you have to use either a manual tap or electric one.

That 14:1 figure is not far off stoichiometric ratio @14.7 which although ok for cruise mode is pretty lean on power / under load - I'd err towards 13.6 - 13.2:1 for max power / safety!

Vacuum from carbs for what? Boosted applications offer low vacuum signal when 'off' boost - the system reverting to pressurised when 'on' boost. Your FPR (hopefully a boost referenced one) will definitely use that connection. Most people take boost reference signal from plenum or pitot tube to simplify the plumbing!

You think? Sweeps on how many break - i'll go 3No.

Get a standalone quickshifter - the Dyna 2000 kill is active while the lever microswitch is tripped and until it returns to its resting position so not very quick!

You may have dodged a bullet then! Good oil? Need an oil change? Sure the rattle wasn't caused by detonation due to heat?

No, more correct to say - 'like a knackered tap with a fubar'd washer - it drips when off.' A good tap with a good seal don't drip - eg. no Pingle i've had / used has ever dripped . . . . . . . . leaked at the tank joint - yes, dripped no! LOL!

If the oil is overheated (not good) then lubrication is lost and metal to metal contact is likely! Top ends are susceptible as farthest from pump and hottest part of engine. I'd seriously have a look under the rocker cover before using it again - a rattle is never a good noise!

Nothing wrong with a strong bottom end - ooooh er matron! If you can afford to do the work - it's likely to never need to be touched again whatever tune / setup is thrown at it.

I guess slightly different tolerance / clearance in BE bearings will produce that effect - on way up both bearings are loaded so will top out at same time, then through the dwell period the pins move to opposite side of the bearing and it one has , say, +1 - 2 thou difference, it will move later than the other?

With no rods and pistons - two fingers easy! What does a 1100 crank achieve in a 750 apart from a really long stroke combination - not one i've heard of before?

Shed loads of nitrous or 30+ lbs of turbo boost will be a good start LOL!

IMO - yes DJ size and waaaay too big for a near enough std engine - I'd try 126 - 130 mains. Emulsions / needles could be worn which also won't help and promotes rich condition. If they are DJ - they have a lifetime warranty & free replacement!

I'd say you've a wiring issue to sort out as having a 'seemingly' permanent live electrical system isn't cool and quite dangerous! And as with most 'old bikes', the carbs need stripping and cleaning thoroughly - not a bit of carb / brake cleaner - if you have or know someone with an ultrasonic cleaner, use it for a few cycles with whatever strong solvent / cleaner you can find.

Good grief - could be the only one worldwide that will be stock !

So cut the bloody heat shrink tube off - just slit down its length and it comes off - DOH!