dr_thirsty

Yes I think you nailed it, I like to unnecessarily modify things. I used to do a lot of miles on it and prior to me buying it, the history is limited. Thus it has been used day in and out, rain/snow or shine, even through the winter. The oem electrics are ok and simple enough, but I need to redo some of it anyway, plus with repairs needed and additions etc. I want to make it last. It is my ultimate bike and I could of bought a new one, but where is the fun in that? My bike originally a US model, not California luckily. It 36mm carbs and was totally original. Now only the engine internals are still as I bought it and the main frame too. I am basically building what I consider the ultimate GSX-R1100W.

Sure the condition of some of the original connectors/wire etc. were not in good condition. Like a break inside the ignition switch, that was hard to diagnose on the side of the road. Lights that would turn off when the bike was warm. Hence the initial need to redo the old. I now have keyless ignition, I have added custom switches (programmed the way I want), alarm, blue tooth connectivity. Simplified wiring because it works like a relay, only one fuse, no resistors need to be added for LEDs etc. It makes the bike a little bit smarter and the wiring is just less. If you wire the tail, one earth and one wire for each function. I use LED tail light and it has 2 wires going to it instead of 6. Do that everywhere and then you know what I mean.

Are you speaking your opinion or your experience? Motogadget uses much less wiring, it offers diagnostics and I have been stuck on the side of the road with my "simple" original wiring many times . Not to mention nothing on my bike is in its original position, now it is even more simple and I know exactly where every wire goes and I it is all waterproof etc.

Not planning to run anything off the end of the crank. I did think of using some of the early type parts to get rid of the rubber bush etc. The idea I have, is to mount a crank style generator to the original position. This assuming the speed of rotation is enough, I will design a housing to house the generator windings and a new shaft with rotor. With the electronics being moved out of the housing, I should have an assembly 1/4 to 1/3 of the length and half the weight. compared to original. Output will need to be similar to the original, as I am not going to go to EFI, but need some room for accessories (lithium battery charging etc.). I am completely re-wiring to whole bike, original wiring has let me down a few times and I want to simplify the whole thing, with Motogadget stuff. The only thing original on my bike is the frame and engine, but they have not been completely left alone either.

I am fully modernizing my 1996 GSX-R1100WT. But I am keeping the important things old school. It will have carbs and the rest will be modified in some way or another. I want to update the alternator, it is big heavy and I have already had the seal/damper thingy break on me once already. I want to use a modern alternator and separate the reg/req from the rest. Has anyone done something similar or interested in a discussion about possible ways forward?

I did some research last week and I have bought a Translogic TLS-QSX-C-DCS, this is a 2 channel ECU and this kit is for motorcycles with 2x dual coil packs. You can chose either push or pull operation, needs no setting up (but can be adjusted if you want to) and one thing that no other supplier do, the kit comes with everything (no hidden costs). Their technical team are very helpful and over the weekend they were still answering my questions. Price is similar to others and the others you need to by rod kits etc. Dynatek were the only other people to get back to me and they gave me a very detailed technical breakdown of how to connect and how a DYNA 2000 works with a quick-shifter etc., they could not provide a quick-shifter themselves but did provide a model from DynoJet. I had a look and it is a universal ECU, separate sensor and separate shift-rods (double the price of the Translogic). A bit of YouTubing and my conclusion of the HealTech system, nice but overly complicated to set-up. HM quick shifters, I got no answer back and they are also more complicated than the Translogic to set-up.

Never heard of ignitech before today. And I’m not sure if I want to try their system? I have used DYNA stuff for years with no problems. I will probably go for a stand-alone system

I wasn’t planning to use the switch itself, just the trigger wire. Stand alone seems to be a good option, I quite like the HMQUICKSHIFTER models and translogic have been around for a while. Healtech looks a bit gimmicky, but worth a look I guess.

I want to cut the ignition temporarily to allow WOT shifts and operate the lever with my foot.

Hi Everymore, I want to add a quick-shifter to my DYNA 2000 programable ignition on my GSX-R7/11 OC (and possibly my 7/11 WC too). It is a track only bike and I intend to run a race harness. Any ideas, personal experiences welcome. I am reaching out to all the manufacturers I can find too. There is info on air-shifters and systems for drag-racing, that's not my thing, I like corners. Cheers, Neil

I also got conformation from Team York Suzuki, they race at the TT and Nova Racing Transmissions said I should contact them. So as mentioned in this thread, yes it will fit and it will also fit the 1052 motor too. Just use the original gearbox output bearing for each type. Now all I need is to save up a bit longer !

Yes that’s correct, but you will have some trouble due to the fact that the good quality front sprockets are hardened. And also you are limited to the least number of teeth you can have. If I need huge sprockets, chain will be longer, heavier and that defies all I’m trying to do.

I am using the 94-95 750W swing-arm and to get that to line up perfectly, I needed a 3mm spacer on the clutch side of the swing-arm. Now a 750W wheel lines up perfectly with the front. I'm using L1 750 wheels I will need either a 5mm, 1/4", 3/8"or 10mm offset front sprocket. I want to go to a 520 chain, as that will give a bit more room, also may limit the sizes I can get on the front sprocket, but I will have to come to that later. With 530 size those are the sizes available, so no problem. On the sprocket side of the wheel, 10mm is the problem correct, might have to run without the seal on the sprocket carrier (use a sealed bearing instead). Tap the studs deeper, so they don't stick out so far and hit the weld on the inside of the swing-arm. I first tried with a 1000 K5 rear, wow that is even worse (an extra 5mm to get rid of). I was looking through the parts catalog and it looks like for 90 there is a 3mm wider sprocket spacer. Good way to check which model mine is? If it turns out I have an 89, I can use spacer from the 90. If I remember correctly from 90 they used a 5.5” rim on the rear. Spacers from 91-92 are smaller, most likely because of the double row bearing on the output shaft.

Yes, when I come across a cheap Blandit motor, I will use it to check. I am going to get a 91-92 1127 too, to see the differences with my 89-90 motor.

The only `Suzuki gearbox' I've heard of is the one Guy Martin used in this GSX-R1100 Turbo and he probably has contacts I don't have?