PaulP

Thanks, premium only then

Hi i have an 83 GSX1100, I guess it originally ran on leaded fuel, is unleaded ok and what about the new E10 ??

Hi i think I will try the citric acid in powder form, any ideas on strength , I only see it normally stated as a flavouring or for bath bombs, but my tank is a fair size

Thanks Joseph, white vinegar sounds safe enough, yes I have good paintwork that I need to keep, any idea if you can buy the vinegar in bulk rather than a trolley full of 1ltr bottles ?

Hi i have done loads of work to get my gsx1100esd back on the road, I think everything is looking good, I went to empty the tank and refill with new fuel only to find it’s gone rusty in the last few years, no idea why as it’s been ok with very little use for the previous 20 years, so I have looked on YouTube and see acids and electrolysis being used but would prefer to hear from someone who has actually done it and the pros and cons, I am in the uk so if anyone can recomend products available here that would be great

Hi Gixer1460, you are correct in that it’s on the stand in neutral. are you saying that with the air box on it might rev ok ??, if so is there anyway I can get close to simulating an air box as obviously it’s a real pain to fit and I would like to have some confidence before installing it, the spare set of carbs was previously running with K&Ns and have had a jet fitted in the back to compensate, would you expect these also to have the same issue without the K&Ns installed ?

That seems about right, I have tried cleaning yet again and find that although tickover is a bit lumpy the engine responds smooth and quick to a blip of the throttle, so I thought I was getting close, I then thought I should blip a bit more and find it won’t rev freely above 4000 and if I open her up fully it just cuts out, tried with my spare carb set and it does virtually the same, maybe reaching 1000 rpm more, checked the plugs and although they are not perfect they are not bad, still no air box fitted but I would be surprised if that caused such a difference, up to 4000 the slides are only just moving, when I try to go above 4000 they open a bit more but just flutter, all 4 looking equal on both carb sets, any ideas on where to look next ??

Before I fit the air box I need to get it running well, I appreciate that the mixture will be a bit lean running it without the air box but when I try it’s not so good, if I feel the pipe temps on start up there is a lot of variation, no4 hardly heats at all until I take the choke off, I have stripped the carbs a few times and used carb cleaner and an air line, everything looks ok, but when I fit a spare set of carbs from a different model no4 heats up straight away, one thing I have never cleaned Is the individual choke plungers, it looks like you need to separate the carbs for this ?just looking at all the springs on the throttle linkage and it looks tricky, has anyone done this and have any advise ?, I know I could send them off to someone but hopefully you understand the preference to do it yourself, the carbs did sit for several years full of petrol, I have also checked the float heights and balanced the butterflies staticly all advise aprecciated paul

Looking for this wintergreen oil online it all seems to be nice smelling aromatherapy stuff, that seems a bit wasteful , maybe try a pharmacy, short term is fine, I only need them to be supple for an hour to fit the box, I don’t intend to remove it sgain for some time I hope

Hi Swiss Toni Wintergreen oil does exist anyway, apparently it’s good for headaches, that seems appropriate for fitting an air box on these. has anyone else heard of this or have any idea on dilution rate ???

Soaking them overnight sounds a good solution if anyone knows what to use, it’s going to be tricky keeping 4 warm with a hairdryer

So, I have put new tyres, refurbed the calipers, new pads and hoses, new indicators, new head gasket, rebuilt the carbs, new oil and filter, and nearly finished, just need to refit the tank, fairing, carbs and air filter box, last time I installed that was probably 15 years ago and it was hard as hell then, some of the runners are quite hard now, does anyone have any tips on how to make this any easier ??, or should I go down the K&N style route ??

Thanks, looked for another hour crawling on the floor without any luck, but the spring in a cheap biro was the perfect size and works well

I had to remove the front brake reservoir as the plInger had stuck forward, unfortunately when removing the lever the brake switch parts dropped on the floor, I found 2 pieces, a plastic pin that the lever operates and a brass contact that fits inside it, unfortunately on rebuild it doesn’t work and can’t stop wondering if there should be a spring to ensure contact, had a good search on the floor and used a magnet but I can’t find anything, does anyone know this part to confirm if I am missing something or maybe just bad assembly ??

Hi, they are chrome rather than stainless, I have spent the evening with wire wool and Solvol and they are getting there, ordered some citric acid to give that a go as well, the silencer section is looking acceptable, the down pipes won’t be as good, but looking much better already, so more elbow grease and time needed, I will let you know how it goes and thanks for the advice.