Gixer1460

Nothing special compared to some!

I would assume the 1100 intakes are from a K or L model fitted with 36mm CV's. The M & N models had 40mm CV's. Short stroke 750's had the 38mm CV's. So you have choices - a) Dremel out the 36mm boots to take the 38mm carbs - messy and don't cock it up as they'll be fit for nowt. b) Find some 40mm boots but they'll take more tightening of the clamps than is healthy which can cause the carbs to fall out! And c) Find some 38mm boots but these result in different angle of the carb bank that tends to interfere with fuel taps etc. Sometimes if the 36mm boots are new / really soft they can be stretched enough to accept the 38mm inlets - usually a ratchet strap can be used to pull the carb rack into the boots - either way its a PITA!

As cylinders 1 & 4 go to one coil and 2 & 3 go to another, both plugs on one coil fire together - its called 'wasted spark' - one cylinder will be on power stroke the other will be on exhaust. Swapping the leads between paired cylinders is useful to see if a problem moves without a bunch of work. Any intake air leaks in the airbox side of the carbs is immaterial - only leaks on engine side affect running. The inlet rubbers / inlet rubber O rings could be hard / cracked - usually a good source for inlet air leaks, replace O rings or a smear of RTV can affect a temporary seal. Wrapped pipes will be a bit cooler but should still show a difference with an IR temp gun if there is a duff cylinder!

I don't like the idea of a screen on the fuel inlets - far too easy to cause a blockage IMO Never seen a screen on any carbs i've had apart - i'd rather see some crap in the bottom of the float bowl than blocking the fuel inlet - just my personal opinion though! A decent external fuel filter before the carbs is far more useful and user friendly!

Could this be something daft like a vac. hose disconnected on #3 for a fuel tap vac. connection missing or a vac. check port uncovered. It sounds like #3 is running right (or rather more normally, as one would expect if this is the 'reference carb') and the others are too rich, possibly why it all goes 'pete tong' as it warms up?

No one can be absolutely sure as you have a mixture of non stock parts but turbo's and high CR engines tend to pinch top ring lands due to excessive boost creating localised overheating or through detonation. Detonation in a Nitrous engine is a different animal - squashes the ring lands to death then melts everything, usually in less than a second! Running a hot engine is usually detrimental to the oil firstly, then power loss then if REALLY hot, seizure is a possibility but that would be so hot you wouldn't want to be sitting on the bike going slowly! 'Warmloper' - very descriptive the Dutch language LOL!

That certainly won't help! Detonation likely cause?

This is the most Bonkers thing in the whole list - I really want to see it succeed - 100+ hp in that ickle thing will be mad!

Extended oil changes causes all kinds of wear! If the recommended limit is 124psi, then yes its re-bore time and while your in there it'd be rude not to turbo it to help with the breathing LOL!

Apologies - my 0.004 / inch bore related to ring gap - DOH! The correct figure should have been 0.001" per inch bore, so revised calc is 0.0254 x 3 = 0.0762mm ! So, yes I guess your clearance is sufficient LOL!

I hate doing the imperial to metric conversions so maybe completely 'off the chart' with this . . . . . 1 inch = 25.4mm. 1/1000th inch = 0.0254mm. Most piston manufacturers 'rule of thumb' is 4 thou per inch of bore size, so assuming 78mm bore? = 3 inches give or take, so 4 x 3 = 12 thou clearance which equals 0.3048mm ? So by my math your piston to bore @ 0.14mm is waaay to tight? - A knowledgeable adult may be along shortly to correct me LOL!

I believe you have to fit the older GSX cover for correct flow without a cooler OR make a link pipe from one port into the other externally to achieve the same thing.

As MB49 says - you are trying to equalise the pressure applied over the surface of the fuel in the bowl with the pressure required to force fuel into the bowl. Ideally Normal atmospheric ie. gravity + boost but that never works LOL! You are trying to make the carb think it is running NA so it functions exactly the same.

Ha Ha Ha ! Good question . . . . . in my case money, lots of money LOL! Mind you I didn't spend most of it, that was the guy who started and run out of money! I just put all his parts together and made them work. My engine is big - cubes help anytime! Set up as a turbo and with the boost pipe disconnected it still made around 180 rwhp - found that out when doing the mapping as a good NA fuel map (I think) is essential to put boost on top of. Apart from being enlarged, the engine is std. tuning, flowed head, bigger valves (still shim 'M' head btw!), intercooler and a one off Kroll camshaft that was ground for this engine. I will get back to this one day as there is still more power to be made.

Simple answer - Yes! Whole basis for making power is moving air and the easier it can be done the better. An un-ported intake induces drag needing more force (boost) to overcome it ( very simplistic). So if the air path is smoother, less turbulent, more direct you will require less boost to achieve the same HP (providing the fuel is there obviously) or conversely use the same boost as before and make more power! I've seen some of BJ's 'skulled' heads for use with TF and nitrous ProMod engines - a lot of work and engineering involved but lush!

We used Robinson Auto boxes in the Comp and Funnybikes - very good pieces and definately fit for purpose - multiple championships and wins don't lie!

And all used in a 40 year old internally rusty frame - the mounts are sound, they'll just be attached to bits of tubular rust on the floor LOL!

I used to run 10psi with old skool suck through and used the std cam cover breather tower, an additional dash 10 out of the cam cover, a dash 10 from centre of clutch cover and a dash 8 out of the filler fitting - all to a vented recirc catch tank except the dash 8 that went to a open catch bottle. Too much? Maybe, but it didn't smoke or leak oil through gaskets!

Dirtbike - I assume a 2 stroke? Head gaskets in multiple packs makes sense as they used to be stripped almost weekly due to piston replacement after seizing LOL! A lot of them were copper just for the multi use aspect using a blow torch trackside to re-anneal.

You just need to remove sharp edges - if it looks or feels sharp then round it off. A thin sharp section will heat up to the point where it will cause pre-ignition or detonation which is a piston killer so nice smooth edges and job done. More people are reporting use of the MaxSpeeding Rods but don't believe their claim of using ARP bolts - they ain't so budget for a set of Real ARP rod bolts. They ain't Carillo's but they ain't Carillo prices either!

A lot of race bike builders actually block it off as splash lube generally sufficient.

The speedo healers fit between the sprocket counter and the speedo guage in the wiring. Some have a calibration procedure that usually counts the pulses from the sprocket whilst travelling over a measured distance - 10m, 100m, 1km or a mile - just needs to be accurate. The one above relies on knowing actual difference between speedo reading & actual speed via GPS or difference in % of gearing change. Once that is set, the speedo healer outputs the correct pulses to drive the speedo to show the correct speed. Think - taking your pulse over 30 seconds, multiple x2 and you get beats per minute.

Hmmm - i'm surprised its actually running at 22 AFR as most engines need to idle at 15:1 or less / richer. Never normally see 22:1 until in a closed throttle, engine over-run situation ie. injectors off.

IMO it depends on what bearings are fitted! If traditional plain oil fed bearings then all water cooling can be blocked. If it has a ball bearing core with a plastic cage then I wouldn't run it without water cooling at all - the cages are moderately delicate and suffer with excess heat. If the bearings have metal cages then you could either leave them dry or could run oil through them - it will pull some heat away - not as good as water but the bearings aren't as delicate!

Blow some LOW pressure air through each one - the water passages will have very little resistance, the oil ones a bit more!