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Everything posted by Gixer1460
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As no size comparison was going to say T2 but given above ^^^ what about T25 or T28? Internally it looks brand new - NOS found on a shelf somewhere? Good find if so!
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Firstly why and how did they get 'bent'? Not sure i've ever heard of anyone bending needles! Bearing in mind how accurately they are machined / made, any deviation is likely to touch the jet causing increased wear, so i'd probably say no - but you've nothing to lose by trying!
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Model years vary by a year depending on whether US or European / UK market !
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Just buy another rack of 1000 TB's - should be cheaper than custom SS plates which need exact ground edges to work . . . . . just my opinion!
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With a turbo you don't need high rpm's! My biggie makes peak between 8500-9000! Unless a cam is specifically ground for turbo use ie. lots of lift and short duration it'll probably be worse - overall - compared to a std. cam, I'd stick to a stock 1100 cam for the output you want.
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Mounting is fine - air will flow equally well through it whether vertical or as is - stop over thinking things LOL!
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About the only Injection rack that will fit natively without re-spacing is off a Z1H that I know of - everything else is late model and usually watercooled so needs re-spacing! As regards ECU's it's down to money and DIY or lack of, skills from £150 odd Megasquirt / Speeduino and self assembly through to Motec's and Pectel's @ multi thousands!
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Accepted wisdom for carb removal from 30 year inlets - 1100M
Gixer1460 replied to Nick's topic in Oil Cooled
My 'go to' method is an Impact Driver, 12" extension and the large 'blunt' cross head bit in the set - never had a screw that didn't yield after a couple of whacks - replace with SS M6 cap head screws. -
If you are 'hitting a wall' @ 120-130 something is wrong or you are whimping out LOL! My old donkey Kawazuki, naked, w / flat bars, Suck through T2 garrett, S&S carb and 10psi = 200 and a bit hp, would hit 155 and probably a bit more if it wasn't for the parachute riding position! Engine had a 1186 kit + 2mm spacer plate due to 12:1 CR pistons, std. crank, std. rods, std. K/L head and std. cams with a Dyna2000 ignition. Std rods and cranks will survive 270-280 odd hp - AS LONG AS THE OIL SUPPLY IS GOOD - lose that and the big ends get toasted and will exit the block! Forget all the flash stuff until you are pushing 300+hp or 1.5 bar + boost - really not necessary. A good ported head will help pick up hp while using less boost. Plenty of peeps using carbs upto 300+ hp so EFI not necessary - it just helps tuning and keeps AFR's more accurate.
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No user serviceable parts shown or available on part fisches so answer is probably NO!
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The site doesn't like the bastardisation of GSXR - they are funny lot round here LOL!
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Why be so cryptic LOL! Honestly never seen 37's for sale in the UK but I guess they must be ! Just had a look on the Keihin WWW and the FCR35 and 37's are listed for GSXR600's and RF600's so the manufacturer thinks they may be a bit weee for a bigger engine possibly? Mind you they also recommend 41's on GSX's LOL!
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Essentially what you are saying is a 40+yr old designed loom and been used for 40+yrs isn't really fit for purpose anymore - a rewired loom would be a far better proposition! Nothing wrong with that just not achievable for most unless electrickery inclined. Even trying to clean old connectors just reveals more corrosion and the dreaded 'black' oxidised or 'Green' corroded wire when stripping back insulation to make a new connection. Sometimes enough is enough and re-new is the way forward. And btw those Series R/R are bloody expensive - almost cheaper to get a new rewound stator and shunt R/R and keep up with regular oil changes!
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Shows how long i've been out of the Motec loop! I was aware of the M800 as that was the natural upgrade from the M8 I last used but the M84 is now a deffo option as I do have 8 injectors to control sequentially!
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With a shed load of work - Arttu did it on his EFE - wanted better output due to having EFI electronics and pump to run.
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I think you mean M48? - Good choice, if a bit spendy IMO, BTW.
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A M8 has a 1216 kitted Bindit - it's had some work internally with a ridiculously lightened GSXR crank that was a 'steal it price' so rude not to, but std cams and an Ackro exhaust. Initially had 41mm Keihin FCR's and it made 165+hp but just didn't feel nice to ride so he swapped to RS36mm Flatslides and now makes 155hp with loads of torque, lifts the front in 3rd on the throttle, it's a hoot to ride and gets loads more tank range compared to stock ! ! ! with 50 more HP - how's that happen LOL! So I know what my choice would be!
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IMHO a bone stock GSXR11 or a Bindit 12 will work ok with 36mm Flatslides but not optimally. Throw a bit of tuning / headwork / compression / capacity / cams and the 36mm flatties work brilliant on the road and probably the 38's will add a bit more to the top end numbers whilst losing a bit off the bottom! Got to ask yourself - where to you ride most, low to mid or mid to top? 40's are for racebikes IMO or really big capacity engines which can make them work in the midrange.
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I thought these VVT turbo's were somewhat more complicated than just removing the turbine housing? And if you can't remove same, the thought of cast iron dust from grinding being fired at the bearings won't promote a lengthy lifespan - hence the disassembly answer, but I will bow to those more knowledgeable!
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SRAD Cárb overhaul
Gixer1460 replied to bernardo's topic in Water Cooled, V-Twins, Singles and 2-strokes
Oooh that'll get the haters out of the woodwork - not me though, used them a few times with good success! But why renew jets unless they are physically destroyed or blocked they very rarely 'wear out' - they maybe wrong size but that's usually pilots or mains, so not a king's ransom to replace!