Gixer1460

If you use a good torch so you can keep the indirect heat away from the rotor and in particular the magnets / glue, a pretty much good amount of heat can be used - but heat it hot and heat it quick then stop - continual heat soaking will eventually get to the magnet glue, then its toast. I've known flywheels to take 24+hrs under extreme puller torque - patience is required!

Well, if you are running guestimated fueling over 4k kms and excessive fuel has worn the rings to allow excessive rock, then yes the pistons could be kissing the valves but I still don't see vibration - noise yes but not vibes. Something is broken / out of balance to cause those sort of vibes. Is this suddenly or long term?

Can be done but stick coils tend to have low impedance (1 or sub 1 ohm) so draw more amps than a std 3.0 ohm coil so either wire in series (so each coil sees 6v nominal) or add a cyrrent limiting resistor to each coil. Been discussed on here loads of times - do a search! A stock CDI unit may struggle passing too many amps if sticks just wired up!

New grips / bar ends? - usually good for hand felt vibes, but yours sounds more serious if affecting vision ! Has it been dyno'd or is it guestimated tuning?

If you are experiencing those symptoms after just (what sounds like) a top end build - then you have some MAJOR problems. You haven't given much away as to what you have actually done ? ? ? Cams - No! High Comp - V unlikely! Cam timing - again unlikely unless really wrong, then engine wouldn't run! Flatslides - maybe but you'd notice that before riding! More info required!

It's a f**king big hole then! Most are, sizewise, like the staggered two at the top !

Those / that mixture screw looks like its projecting too far and is possibly screwed in too far - I had a set of RS carbs like that and had to literally dig the screws out cos the tips broke off the rest of the screw. May or may not be anything but could be an issue?

News to me! See this : With bikes I'd guess its even less likely to be successful seeing as most of a bikes 'colour' is bolt-on and / or removable or replaceable !

I don't live in any of those places and unlikely that I'd bike to them either so don't care!

It's clear as glass - even written with words at top of sheet - 230hp @ 9.5k

Quick correction - a NA airbox never goes below atmospheric pressure. Sub-atmospheric (vacuum) is only present engine side of throttle blades / slides. My understanding of inlet pulse tuning is that the pulse only extends as far as a change of cross section or an edge ie. ram pipe opening, where it reverses and hopefully gets back to the inlet valve as it is closing. I'm sure that the same pulses occur in turbo installs and are equally limited to the section / edge change, the pulses being not so much measured at 'normal' speed but ultra / hyper sonic and as such the optimum tuning only occurs at a very narrow rpm range unless you get beneficial harmonics as well.

Ok, but the OP question was for a 'K' engine and sizes of 1260 or 1277, and now expanded to 1340. So alternative liners required that may fit in Suzuki casting except the 1340 kit - I think that requires aftermarket barrels which aren't too common anymore? If the intention is 'fast road' mid range running then probably RS38's / FCR39's would be a good choice especially if the 1340 route is chosen.

God knows why this popped up ! ! ! Can't delete Grrrrr!

Yeah - that is std Blandit arrangement, but I think the tubes extend at least to the bottom of the cases (although I may be wrong on that!)

Don't leave the hoses off (if that is what you meant) - CV carbs can act funny if these pipes are removed as the area behind the engine is a low atmospheric pressure zone and as these vent the float valves that can affect fuel delivery. Thread is 3 years old and OP pictures were 36mm CV's - Joseph is referring to using 34mm CV's (why I don't know but he is in France) maybe just a general question?

These are carb spacing numbers not head (from memory) - all suzuki's have splayed inlets compared to carb centres.

I don't believe std 1127 'K' barrels / liners will do to those sizes - way to thin for reliability! Carbs depends on what YOU are prepared to accept or want from them - 36 cv's good powerr and drivability, 38's better power and equal drivability, RS36's better power but less drivability,RS38's even better power and maybe ultimate for road but all flatslides need to be driven correctly with set up to suit. Other carbs are an option but are more race orientated so can work on the road but probably not recommended.

Are you retaining the OEM ECU to drive them? Otherwise can't see the point for including a intake restriction even if open! Just seen Arttu has given better explanation ✓

Oh yes they can ! Use the depth guage bit, caliper end against one side of 1st hole and depth bit to corresponding other side of other hole - easy!

DR9EIX - Iridium std heat range . . . . . DR10EIX - Would be the upgrade . . . . . but they don't make it! IMO the std plug will take a LOT of abuse / heat / boost before causing problems. As an aside, DO NOT use Iridium plugs with nitrous as the thin tip tends to glow like a glowplug leading to detonation issues which with a nitrous engine makes big holes in things! EDIT - Should add - above recommendation was for GSXR / GSF range of engines . . . . sorry I assumed LOL!

Doesn't have to be solely on boost, could be rpm, could be gear etc. subject to an available input & suitable signal? Automation is maybe a good reason as I used to have ign. retard on a bar switch which I completely forgot once = 40deg advance + 10psi boost . . . . . . . silly me And I originally only said 'it could be', not must be

Was it a 'blonde moment'? Surely all turbo control is based around boost? With a std wastegate having, say, a 8lb spring, 8lbs of boost will open the gate. If you want 10lbs, you either change the spring or use a bleed off to bleed off some of the boost from the spring diaphragm so its opening is at a higher boost. Ultimately boost pressure always controls boost - unless you use bottled air / gas pressure for really sophisicated control. If the ecu is monitoring intake air pressure, Aux5 could be set to activate a soli to either increase or decrease that pressure rather than having separate switch?

It (the ecu) just takes over the adjustible mechanical pressure switch role which was the oldskool way of having a selectable two stage boost. I don't say this is the best way but with a limited function ecu and doing it on a budget - its a way. Yes a PWM control of a solienoid gives better resolution against duty cycle but will require a different ecu - but maybe a Megaquirt can do it and is 'relatively' cheap AND can do ignition as well so could definately be advised as an upgrade.

Yes if variable boost required - I was thinking more along the two step type boost control ie. low on spring only, high switch control solenoid to bleed boost for high?

Without all the info it difficult to confirm but couldn't the AUX1 output be used as the 'boost switching source' ? Agreed that it is a very crude solution but also (i'm again guessing here) if that output is a grounding one, it could also be hooked up to the Dyna2000 orange wire to initiate boost retard - again a crude solution!