Gixer1460

Late? - as in, has water mixed in or is it still an oil boiler. The water powered one's still go in but would be a PITA having to add all the plumbing!

See Image - all identified. All have to be 'lightly bottomed out' in their working condition except the Idle mixture jets / screw which are usually between 1.5 - 2.5 turns out from seated point to adjust the idle mixture (really clever naming huh! LOL!) I like to remove the MJ's from the emulsion tubes before fitting the ET's so they seat correctly with decent pressure then MJ's go in and get lightly tightened, enough to avoid vibration loosening!

I believe there are three big steel rivets that secure the basket to the gear. You'll have to either grind or drill the heads off to release and then again source some new rivets and secure them using many tonnes of press pressure! They can be seen on the parts fiche . . . . . https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2003/gsx-r750/clutch - its a 2003 750 clutch but the Blandit fiche is shite and barely shows anything, anyway the three round things on the back are the rivets, and guess what they ain't available from Suzuki! Aftermarket suppliers of Tuning parts can supply them!

Some will re-use, some will re-place - no right answer! If it is still fresh ie. hasn't had any significant heating / cooling, i'd probably re-use with the RTV but if it shows a defined imprint of the case or pan it could be a marginal call for re-use!

Personally I wouldn't use any AN6 fittings on cooling circuits an oil cooled engine - i'd even get twitchy using 8's unless absolutely bone stock - other opinions may differ

If the torques are correct, the pan could have a slight bow in it that the previous gasket accommodated? Pan has to come off to check. If it is bowed then you can try surfacing it with fine emery on a glass sheet or just add a SMALL bead of RTV between gasket and pan to take up any irregularities.

With a push / pull throttle set up I'd loose the stock spring completely or add an entirely remote spring - like a lighter coil spring - if you require 'auto' close. Also bare in mind a 'Quick Action' throttle will make any throttle action much heavier - great with CV's but murder for slide carbs!

^^^ Nice solution to pipe avoidance With a top fed radiator (nothing wrong with bottom feed btw!) you have a little more scope for maybe turning the fittings toward the centre and then running hoses down front of cylinders between 2 & 3, then separate around the filter? Just a thought!

Undercutting helps the dogs 'lock in' when under power and most OEM gears have a degree of undercut but when racing it can be insufficient. An engine builder / transmission shop should be able to do the work which is fairly precise to match angles between gears and around the dogs so they all contact at same time. That dog ring does seem somewhat battered / worn out. I'm not strong into gearboxes - to many iddy biddy pieces so I leave it to peeps who know better!

That works for splined lever to shaft but I think the question is more about sloppy shaft fit through casings and intermediate pivots and levers that don't clamp!

Those dogs deffo need an undercut - not surprised it's jumping out of 2nd as it gets mucho abuse!

A later one - M or N, if its got a diaphragm spring clutch. I thought the aluminium backplate was retained by the big 50mm sleeve nut? Could be wrong though as only took a std M clutch apart to fit a proper spring clutch and lock-up LOL!

All together now . . . . . . Oh no its not ! ! ! LOL!

No - lock up is just the 4 bolts that compress the clutch springs then it falls off!

Std. torque can be used if the engine is essentially stock, although if higher cylinder pressures are envisioned then higher torque is easy to add - will go 60 - 70 ftlbs but pulling case threads could be an issue.

Or bore out to take a bush like . . . . https://www.thebearingcompany.co.uk/category/quality-bearing-for-sale/oilite-bearing-bush/metric-plain-bush-bearing/ A google search for 'bronze bushes' should find a few suppliers?

Can't answer directly but the items you've got 'appear' to be correct but this image of the studs seems to indicate most all at one length with two slightly shorter and two even shorter - maybe 6-8mm max difference between longest to shortest, certainly no single odd one!

You said what I was thinking as I can't work out what is going where!

A stockish B12 will always be hamstrung by its compression so to remedy that it's big bore time which will get the forged pistons to suit either NA or turbo routes. If you want circa 150hp NA some headwork &/or cams will be needed. Obvs turbo is sky's the limit.

Indeed - more pictures required!

I have to admit mine caused issues after its build but was due to a low battery so the starter kicked back and loosened the bolt, I knew it wasn't worn as it had less than 4k miles use. It was a bastard to cure, finally used some diamond / carborundum grit infused paste to lock the bolt to the starter without having to stand on the torque wrench LOL!

Ok, gotcha now! But knowing the angle doesn't really help, as, supposing its 10 deg, what are you using to a) measure that and then b) set the machine up at that angle? You are working against tolerances and inaccuracies which could stack up and end up +/- 0.25 degree which the gaskets won't take up? (probably worst case but you get the drift) Its easier to clamp the case using a sized bar through the bearing journals, then sweep a test indicator across the gasket surface to achieve flat and perpendicular to the boring bar & the table. You shouldn't adjust the machine to the part, adjust the part to the machine IMO.

Fred's requirements are somewhat more 'extreme' compared to even a high spec engine - standard washers are more than adequate for majority of builds! If you can / are building enough boost / cylinder pressure that head lifting is an issue then i'd also be looking at upping the stud diameters as is common with Busa engines - std. 10mm waisted studs / bolts upto 12mm straight sided and even 13mm for extreme use, all HT 12.9 quality bolts and 120-130 ftlb torque

See my answer elsewhere to your other post. But confused re, last sentence? The cylinders / block should be bored perpendicular ie. 90 degrees to the crankshaft so why would anyone want to make that operation more difficult by having the gasket mating surface in a different plane. Reference surfaces of top of crankcase, bottom and top of block, underside and top of cylinder head are ALL usually parallel to crankshaft axis. I have seen on different engines, the underside of the cylinder head faced at an angle as a tuning mod to increase combustion / change valve angles / squish etc., but generally in most cases all are parallel.

I can only speak for my engine that uses 85mm bored (ie 6mm over stock) liners in 'M' cases and doesn't have external oil lines. Mind you i've never had the bottom end apart since it was built so I don't know if the builder did something 'clever' in the oil jet area to compensate for the bores. Looking at the pictures above an additional 3mm boring would get the metal separation pretty thin IMO!