Gixer1460

That is a puzzle ! I've run different MJ's between 1/4 and 2/3 for reason mentioned above but only 4 points on the DJ jetting. Plug colour is difficult to monitor these days - porcelain colour is unrelable with unleaded fuels IMO - I go by the outer thread face . . . . . and it appears your 'weaker' jetted ones are richest ! ! ! Possibly someone has been in there and drilled out the jets so you can't depend on the numbers . . . . It may have been dyno'd with that as its corrected set-up, if its running good, I wouldn't touch it!

Bearing in mind your lack of mechanical skills - look at overall condition, look for grease and oil around screws, bolts and nuts that you would 'expect' to be moved / removed regularly ie, wheel axle nuts and bolts, footrest pivots, stand pivots, control levers. Are there any oil leaks ( I assume the two drips in last pic aren't from this bike?) Service history ? Does the oil filter (at front of engine low down) look new / newish, is it a Suzuki part? Check chain for wear - can you pull it off the rear sprocket, backwards, anymore than a little indicates wear, are sprocket teeth hooked / very sharp points - indicates getting towards replacement. Take someone with you who knows bikes and can assist to balance bike on centrestand - spin the wheels to see if brakes are binding / dragging, are wheel bearings free / not grinding / noisy. Are tyres good / not cracked? Does engine start easily (cold would be good) on / off choke, does it run 'easily' and rev freely, does it smoke - black or blue smoke - walk away or bargain down the price as you don't want to be tearing into an engine! Test ride - does it feel ok, does suspension work, does it ride in a straight line without too much assistance, do brakes work! ! !. Check any paperwork and DOT tests are current and up to date. Lift the seat - some 'grease' around the battery terminals would be a good sign that some care / maintenance has been given! You'll be excited to buy it, but look at it through a pessamists eyes, look for faults and point them out - makes negotiating the sale price easier - if your assistant knows bikes ask their opinion but don't necessarily rely on it!

I love how they are aimed at primarily 'dirt bikes' . . . . . . . who probably have the lightest clutch actions i've ever experienced - as stock! Looking at the cable dia used, I'm not going to bet on longevity when tugging on a GSX clutch!

Just place it in the outlet pipe, 4 - 6" down from turbo! You may get a degree of oxygen dilution from the open end of the pipe being so close at idle but idle tuning doesn't make the engine unsafe - as gas speed increases with rpm the dilution effect goes away and accuracy can be relied on.

You are only increasing capacity by about 15% and yes the faster gas speed over the venturi jet will give greater depression to draw more fuel. This only works so far unless you increase the jet orifice to allow much greater flow. Bear in mind Suzuki fitted 34mm, 36mm & 40mm carbs to the 1100/1200 engines so a carb bore will work with lots of capacities . . . . . hell, one of the 750's got 38mm carbs! Smaller carbs will produce excellent rideability due to increase in torque low down but trim the top end due to airflow restriction.

Why? Tuning in cold dense air gives optimum settings IMO, as when air warms it will be less dense so will run richer but fuel will also be less dense so virtually self correcting to a degree?

You can't compare std jets to DJ - different written sizes. Stop over thinking the problem, just swap them over, monitor the result and act on that rather than speculate with internet tuning!

Finding peeps who have done the swap is likely a REALLY small number - we tend to play LARGE LOL! It is very likely the carbs will work fine and will run sufficiently well to allow 'break-in' running - changing the pilots isn't the end of the world, neither is mains after a bit of loaded running!

Ingenious !, never heard about that one !, but practicality . . . . . hmmm LOL!

If you use a good torch so you can keep the indirect heat away from the rotor and in particular the magnets / glue, a pretty much good amount of heat can be used - but heat it hot and heat it quick then stop - continual heat soaking will eventually get to the magnet glue, then its toast. I've known flywheels to take 24+hrs under extreme puller torque - patience is required!

Well, if you are running guestimated fueling over 4k kms and excessive fuel has worn the rings to allow excessive rock, then yes the pistons could be kissing the valves but I still don't see vibration - noise yes but not vibes. Something is broken / out of balance to cause those sort of vibes. Is this suddenly or long term?

Can be done but stick coils tend to have low impedance (1 or sub 1 ohm) so draw more amps than a std 3.0 ohm coil so either wire in series (so each coil sees 6v nominal) or add a cyrrent limiting resistor to each coil. Been discussed on here loads of times - do a search! A stock CDI unit may struggle passing too many amps if sticks just wired up!

New grips / bar ends? - usually good for hand felt vibes, but yours sounds more serious if affecting vision ! Has it been dyno'd or is it guestimated tuning?

If you are experiencing those symptoms after just (what sounds like) a top end build - then you have some MAJOR problems. You haven't given much away as to what you have actually done ? ? ? Cams - No! High Comp - V unlikely! Cam timing - again unlikely unless really wrong, then engine wouldn't run! Flatslides - maybe but you'd notice that before riding! More info required!

It's a f**king big hole then! Most are, sizewise, like the staggered two at the top !

Those / that mixture screw looks like its projecting too far and is possibly screwed in too far - I had a set of RS carbs like that and had to literally dig the screws out cos the tips broke off the rest of the screw. May or may not be anything but could be an issue?

News to me! See this : With bikes I'd guess its even less likely to be successful seeing as most of a bikes 'colour' is bolt-on and / or removable or replaceable !

I don't live in any of those places and unlikely that I'd bike to them either so don't care!

It's clear as glass - even written with words at top of sheet - 230hp @ 9.5k

Quick correction - a NA airbox never goes below atmospheric pressure. Sub-atmospheric (vacuum) is only present engine side of throttle blades / slides. My understanding of inlet pulse tuning is that the pulse only extends as far as a change of cross section or an edge ie. ram pipe opening, where it reverses and hopefully gets back to the inlet valve as it is closing. I'm sure that the same pulses occur in turbo installs and are equally limited to the section / edge change, the pulses being not so much measured at 'normal' speed but ultra / hyper sonic and as such the optimum tuning only occurs at a very narrow rpm range unless you get beneficial harmonics as well.

Ok, but the OP question was for a 'K' engine and sizes of 1260 or 1277, and now expanded to 1340. So alternative liners required that may fit in Suzuki casting except the 1340 kit - I think that requires aftermarket barrels which aren't too common anymore? If the intention is 'fast road' mid range running then probably RS38's / FCR39's would be a good choice especially if the 1340 route is chosen.

God knows why this popped up ! ! ! Can't delete Grrrrr!

Yeah - that is std Blandit arrangement, but I think the tubes extend at least to the bottom of the cases (although I may be wrong on that!)

Don't leave the hoses off (if that is what you meant) - CV carbs can act funny if these pipes are removed as the area behind the engine is a low atmospheric pressure zone and as these vent the float valves that can affect fuel delivery. Thread is 3 years old and OP pictures were 36mm CV's - Joseph is referring to using 34mm CV's (why I don't know but he is in France) maybe just a general question?

These are carb spacing numbers not head (from memory) - all suzuki's have splayed inlets compared to carb centres.