Gixer1460

Never heard or seen that mod before - care to give any known details? I guess the issue is providing fuel to it, in an 'orderly' way and consequently not over-fuelling it ? Thinking sideways for a moment - I wonder if the fuel stage from a wet nitrous system could be used to similar effect as a thunderjet? ie. switched on big boost but independent of the carb mixture workings but still easily jettable - just a thought?

He no be here since last September so may not see this? But if the OP is Finish he's probably been snowed in since then LOL!

Bear in mind Summit's advice is generally based on single cam engines where any + move on one lobe has a corresponding - move on its corresponding partner. Its maybe why so many cams are produced just to obtain different LCA's?

That seems to be true, probably less overlap helps the torque - I think shorter numbers are recommended for forced induction also for much the same reason?

They do indeed! I destroyed a EFE top end using std rockers with some G4 cams - ran off the pads and wore the cams out in double quick time.

As said, only real way of comparison is use an engine dyno - a chassis dyno is just too much faff, and you'd have to be prepared to write off a couple of days to get meaningful results. Personally i've always had good results with 110 / 110 so never felt the need to chase other numbers.

For a good machinist, its not a big deal. Probably the longest operation is getting the top of the case parallel to bed of the machine. Centering the boring head on each bore is pretty painless. Agreed though that machining is the way to go for tighter fit. If, for example you took your case now to a machinist, say, for bigger sleeves, the job would be more complicated due to the DIY metal removal not leaving a uniform concentric circle to centre the machine on - pros & cons!

Blueprinting anything is a waste of time and money UNLESS you are restricted by racing class regulations! It will cost more money to blueprint a head than to tune it for performance - don't kid yourself that it will be cheap!

Appalogees - wasn't clear! Oh - and like i'm the first to commit that particular faux pas ! ! !

Eh ? ? ? Using a 1052 crank and without changing the bore - you'll end up with . . . . . . 1052cc ! You could put 1m long rods on the crank and you'd still only get 1052cc! You can ONLY change capacity by varying either the bore dimension and / or the stroke length !

And a fuel filter is NEVER unnecessary when fitted to an 'older' bike !

How are your engineering / fabrication / bodging skills? Measure the thread on the float bowl drain screws, then make / turn up a nipple with that thread and bored through, attach clear tube to each and cabe tie to something to keep vertical with open end higher than the top of float bowl - et voila - level guages! Don't forget to turn the fuel supply off when removing them ! ! !

Don't cut nothing - use as supplied! Different maker, different design, same end result!

Cam wheels have to match the crank as cam wheels have to be twice the number of teeth compared to the crank. As regard timing, i'd follow the 550 method to match the wheels and pins between. The issue that may occur is how the wheels bolt to the cams in relation to the lobes - align the lobes looking at the end of the cam of both and ensure the angle of the bolt holes is identical - your 1st picture shows the lobes are closely matched but the mounting bolt angles 'seem' slightly different ! ! If the above is true, then the stock timing marks won't work for you and you'll have to use the 650 timing data / angle specs and use a timing wheel, dial guage and ideally some slotted sprockets !

29's on a 1052 / 1127 / 1157 will be a bit too small when compared to std which were 36 or 40mm cv's. 29s were fitted to the GS 2v engines but they are rev limited when compared - if bored to 33mm they could make a torquey rev limited road bike!

Possibly just an elaborate spring seat solution to increase spring pressure marginally ?

Its not a case of 'over charging when revved' - its barely charging at all! At idle it should be 13+v and above 3000rpm around 14.2 - 14.6v! If the RR checks out ok then the genny is suspect - as said AC output looks low.

Don't see how - taking heat from one side and transferring it to opposite side equally hot valves ! ! ! And steel is a crap heat transfer material when compared to aluminium.

Forget the lights, your reg / rectifier is goosed and needs replacing. The AC voltage from the Genny looks low - don't know what the spec should be - needs checking!

Maybe if you had, you wouldn't have asked that question!

Or use a Dremel tool with carborundum disc - after measurement obviously! I think i've only ever seen a ring grinder once in real life, in 40 years of playing with bikes!

Interesting video and informative - 4no. Vac ports with black caps. But no obvious float bowl vents - maybe vented via carb bore? Nice to see plastic floats as option?

Vac hose connections on 3 out of 4 carbs would be unusual? Fuel tap vac usually off an inlet rubber, carb balancing vac ports on all carb bodies are normally blanked / capped off. Plastic floats good idea but straight swap ? ? ?

negativity So, I get mis / selectively quoted with regard to the cable used - as being negative! Then you basically agree with the 'quality & longevity' issues by pointing out all the faults, removing it and pondering a 'remade version'. A sorry would be nice, an apology even better This issue has been around for as long as this mechanism has existed and many alternatives have been tried - generally unsuccessfully! I wouldn't say its a flawed system as it functions as designed but it could have been better but just using different length levers may give a softer pull but reduced cable travel and so drag is the result! Its a big clutch with few plates that need heavy springs - compare to modern sport bike with small clutches, many plates and finger light springs and lever feel - it is, what it is - unfortunately!

Or if you aren't precious about originality - make one, braided hose + two correct end fittings (usually banjo's) + 1/2 hr of your time = job done and maybe £15-20 tops.