Gixer1460

std. disclaimer - insert here - Yes! Alternative question 'how are you going to fix them - if you want them fixed? . . . . . . . Swap the head to another 'less cracked' or one that will crack?

Its fairly standard on most multi valve heads - I'd hazard a guess that over 50% of any heads in use today will have some form of cracking. With the section of the metal present its inevitable!

LOL - carefully avoiding the question, are you a politician?

Can't say whats best as i've only used one set-up like that which is probably completely different to yours - 1186 kit 12:1 pistons 2mm plate, Draw through T2, S&S Shorty Super E, std. cams, rods, crank, head and using a Dyna 2000. Never changed the cam timing from when it was built NA, used it with NO2 and same with turbo - 110/110.

To save Dezza taking extra pics - looking at plug from wire side - Top Left = White, Bottom Left = Black/Yellow, Top Right = Orange/White and Bottom Right = Black/White.

Should be - some disassembly required! Unusual place to leak, sure its not the cam cover gasket and its tracking round?

The Dyno and I certainly noticed 1 tooth out - whether yours shared between in & out cams would be?

That really is taking the piss by Cometic considering you can get a whole complete engine gasket set for just about double the price - https://www.Eblag.com.sg/itm/115482360768?hash=item1ae348fbc0:g:0D4AAOSw6-Vi6SIr and Vertex are a good brand but not Cometic I wonder how much a full set from Cometic would cost ? ? ?

I see the pressure stated but according to Facet info here . . . . https://www.lasaero.com/products/article/G01J6S5HF the max pump pressure is 8psi! Are you sure it was the facet and not the HP efi type pump?

IMO - valve weight difference is negligible especially if you use Ti retainers. Most spring changes required due to cam profiles or higher rpm limits - keep those in order, no change required - check spec's though, they do sag with use / age! Are OEM guides even available? I would guess anything whether steel or bronze will be aftermarket pattern parts. So if the old ones can be pressed out, there is no reason that either material couldn't be shrink fitted as replacement. Its fairly involved as guide bores should be honed to valve stems then v. seats and spring seats cut / ground to match new guides and obvs x16 its not cheap job! And I don't think i've ever heard anyone say no to SS valves in OEM guides!

Yes, but the pump has to be capable of supplying a) the fuel pressure required ie. Boost + static pressure and b) flow to match the power output @ the required boost pressure! A small EFI pump can usually do the pressure but flow can tail off to the point that bowls could run dry / not fill sufficiently. A Facet pump (as above) for instance would struggle with much more than 5-6psi boost.

Ah - so it's an oldskool drawthrough set-up.

Trying to get those regulators down to 1-2psi for NA operation is tricky . . . . . can be done but they are better suited to 5+psi used with auto float needles or with turbo boosted pressure applications.

And they go / flow even better with 30/26's in them M & N heads universally accepted as best stock flowing heads, its just no one trusts the shims (which on a relatively low revving, peak power 'big' engine shouldn't be an issue). Question - why would Suzuki san put the 'best' flowing head on the most under performing engine in its line-up?

Just find an interrupter type pump - H***a NTV's / Dullvilles have them. When the bowls are full the back pressure holds the contacts open so pump stops. I think Yam R1's have similar pumps before they went EFI and would be sized for 125 - 140hp?

Yeah, it equals about 3/4 chain link so slotted sprockets advisable.

Its all in the clutch baby, its all in the clutch!

Either work - former is mechanical advance, latter is electronic. I think Dyna subcontracted a lot of their production to the Far East and quality has suffered although i've never experienced any failures so who knows! If you use a Dyna S with ATU you must use a GSX ET type deep cover - EFE type too shallow! EDIT - As regards performance, anything that deliver a spark at the right time, reliably, is as good as can be got, performance wise! The Dyna 2000 may have more features, most are gimmicks - preset advance curves, no advantage using anything other than #1! Retard will use curve #1 anyway and adding pressure switches is a PITA and I found no benefit at all. The kill wire is really course / laggy IMO and proper kill switches work better. Maybe the 2000i with a user programmable ign. curve is 'ok' but it is a bit limited. I like Dyna stuff and used loads then I discovered EFI which has Sooooooo much more potential I don't consider going back!

Most workshop manuals will have an exploded carb diagram (usually not the best view) all labelled, A maintenance section for everyday tuning and a specifications section that usually details carb settings!

Only cos they can't spell it correctly!

And sodder, even though it's spelt correctly - solder!

Wouldn't be surprised - YouTube expert so must be right LOL

First - is the Idle screw I identified accessible externally when the bowl is in place? Second - I should have realised these were Slide carbs (not what I'm used to) so the idle jet setting may be waaaay off ! Third - Looking at my Haynes Bike Carb Manual and GS1000 fiches, that external screw in 2nd picture is titled an 'Adjuster' by Suzuki LOL! Haynes indicates it is probably a Pilot Air Screw. I guess its function is to widen the mixture range of the Pilot Fuel jet which has a fixed orifice, changed only by swapping jets. If you haven't already - GET A MANUAL ! ! ! It will help a lot.

It's likely been over tightened! They are pretty much 'order in' items, unlikely a normal bike parts place would have them on the shelf.

EDIT - Brain fart time! I don't know why I thought u meant the big primary gear - excuse my senility!