Gixer1460

See here...... http://kryptracer.com/Camshaft___Valvetrain.html Very informative and quite interesting. Make sure the Cams are G21X and G28X as they are different to G21 & G28!

They'll work fine - just be careful on the mounting as its easy to short out the screwed connections!

If you need to add an additional toothed wheel for the EFI (and on anything more sophisticated than a squirt of fuel every firing stroke, that is advisable) then why not - mappable ignition is worth as much as correct fueling especially with forced induction - just cos contact breakers work doesn't mean they are a sensible option?

Yeah but John you haven't used any real power yet ! LOL If you can make a pass with a 2 or 2.5lb bottle yer still only playing

750 = 22 / 23cc and 1100 = 26 / 28cc Ring a bell in my melon hence the 750 head compression increase with just a swop,

Re Divider plate - would depend on where the injectors were placed. Used to be common with a carb set-up, that the air flow would swirl in one way or the other and fuel distribution would go to hell - even with - it wasn't brilliant! Have you any photos of the injection / plenum set-up as I was working on an injection plenum for my old draw through but never finished it, As it originally used a 2 1/4" S&S, I was going to use a BMW 60mm TB where the S&S was. Strange with the Microsquirt - haven't heard of many reliability issues with them - was it DIY build or bought in? Big shame as its a promising looking project!

Not sure if that's aimed in any particular direction ? But pretty sure we've all ridden of with the stand down once or twice and / or tried to start in gear?

Pssst - the oil drains are at the front of the engine! As Ben Slabby says but that is providing you havens got all the sidestand / clutch switch bollux still in circuit as this one runs through them to varying degrees to 'save you from yourself' if your stupid or forgetful!

Those would work and may give a little boost whilst retaining the bottom end but if you want more - you need bigger - simple physics! 36 CV's is usual choice but good used sets are getting thin on the ground - RS36 flatslides would be about ultimate for daily driver / stump puller! Keep the stock carbs (if tin tops) for the turbo!

F**kin' hell Phil - try and at least give us a clue - what Bike, engine, colour of wire? We're not telepathic!

Same train of thought I was thinking! I like the Bosch IAT sensor with a cage around the sensor thermistor - fast reacting unlike the brass encapsulated types which are better for water or oil temps. Plus increased intake air temps will increase overall engine temps to a greater or lesser degree!

Two inlet cams in Busa motors used to be a hop up tip back in the day - so why not give it a go, just make sure you have decent piston - valve clearance (1.0mm) if pulling big revs!

You did all that for 3hp more than this - 1186cc, std M head and cams, CV carbs and a DIY 4-2-1 pipe.

Good illustration of differences - ignore that they are Keihin FCR's! _ the angle of the inlet and float bowls is the important thing

On the up side.......at least the crank and rods should be salvageable.............ok! i'm getting my coat!

They are and the spacing at 86 - 92 - 86 is way off! Sorry - walk away from the dark side

As the needle never completely leaves the tube it will have an effect - the MJ basically governs overall fuel flow whilst the needle regulates throughout the range. Do a plug chop whilst riding where is roughest to give a steer on whether fat or lean

And type and if it has the right bits on it!

No it doesn't John - throw the phone away!

It does but the tubing arrangement around the headstock seems wrong, some of the tubes seem a bit 'wimpy' and weren't tube swingers standard at the time? Rounded box section is a bit out of the ordinary! Reference the picture for comparison

The problem is gonna be what size is the sender? The suzuki cap screw 'cover' is M14 or M16 and once you bore and tap the centre out you can't tighten it! May be easier to swop it out for a normal hex bolt and a dowty seal / washer and put the sensor in that?

Whats wrong with good 'ol fashioned scaffold pole crash bars - crash - bend - straighten - race!

Not wanting to get into a pissing contest but that's the first time I've ever heard anyone call stock studs 'precision machined items' - If your lucky they are forgings with a rolled thread so hardly a precision operation! Clamping pressure comes down to area and torque - APE studs and the stupidly thick bolts used in Busa motors these days have probably 50% greater cross sectional area each step - stock GSXR - APE GSXR - APE Busa allowing respectively greater torque to be applied to the nut / stud combination! Not unheard of busa's with 6-700hp @ 2.5 bar boost using 90+ ftlb torque figures to survive!

LOL - rubbish in........rubbish out!

Nice one Arttu - looks a good bolt on solution for the Dino motors!