Gixer1460

True - you've effectively taken 6 teeth off the rear which is a big change without other mods!

Shouldn't make any difference with that!

Yep - that gets everyone first time as it looks like it's been whacked with a hammer!

I'm only responding to the question asked. If done with a GSX then obvs the web is cut also and seeing as the GSXR did away with that feature I don't personally think block integrity is compromised.

They aren't basic questions - they are pretty deep and generally unexplored as most people don't monitor knock, as to get right is quite difficult. You need to find a substantially thick part in the block to mount sensor then determine what you are hearing is knock or general noise. Mounts in the head are too noisy to be useful. Then you have to have a method of acting on it - with autos, the OEM's write the profiles for adjustment into software,we generally can't.

Have u checked if pan is flat? New gaskets and RTV won't help if it's warped.

Still am!

A. Not a hope in hell! B. Will run but likely to pink under any reasonable load. C. Power and / or torque costs money, small amounts can be got easily but decent figures get spendy!

Not so much just clever electronics which are now available to both turbo and nitrous installs but clutch and chassis too. I think if I was doing 1/8th mile grudge racing i'd choose Nitrous every time - nothing IMO, hits as well as gas! But over a 1/4, the turbo's top end wins 99% of the time

Look at the restriction / opening of the internal gate - the valve probably only lifts 3-4mm and the port is a straight drilled hole! Neither is good for flow. An external gate will usually have a bigger valve (35mm smallest i've seen in Tial range?) and can have better placement for exhaust flow gases. And internal gate can be made significantly better if the hole is enlarged to nearer the valve size and then the throat ported to improve the flow into the valve. Its unlikely to ever entirely remove 'creep' but should minimise it! IMO if you are seeing 15+ psi over boost - that isn't creep - that's a REALLY undersized WG! Adding an exhaust instead of a dump pipe won't help - it just adds back pressure which is the last thing a turbo wants!

In simplistic terms - you can change all the 'removable' jets but will always be stuck with OEM needle and needle jet / emulsion tube! This assembly covers fuelling from about 1/8th throttle to 3/4 throttle in rough terms so if the induction isn't as designed to work with that arrangement & in that range, you'll get poor running! The best example is removing the airbox from CV carbs - they generally won't rev out past 4.5 - 5k rpm which is smack in the middle or needle range. DJ kits mostly have different needles and emulsion tubes to combat that very problem. Dynojet have been around since the late 80's and developed kits for thousands of applications and for the most part they just work on modified induction systems short of swapping to slide carb alternatives. I've found they work - following the included instructions - out of the box with minor fine tuning on a dyno to get perfect. You may be able to fool yourself that changing OEM this and that, blasting up and down roads, taking carbs on and off, rinse and repeat LOADS of times is worth saving £££ - but is it really? I'd rather spend an hour, fit something that works and then just ride!

And the best manufacturer is the original OEM - even Funnybike drag racers use them in preference to any other! A lock-up has the advantage that you can use std. springs for nice 'easy to use' normal riding with the lock-up adding clamp pressure when its required!

The geezer uses a mechanical scavenge pump though!

Coils used to have screw in terminals for wires but the OEM's (well certain ones) changed to glued / potted in ones - they would say for 'reliability / weather resistance' but the cynical among us would say, why sell a new lead for £10 why you have to fit a whole coil for £100! *ondas still have screw in terminals so you could obtain some S/H? they are dead reliable and will work with a Suzuki or just cut the defective lead off whilst leaving a 2" tail and use a HT lead joiner and attach the new lead! This looks an ok part - https://www.Eblag.co.uk/itm/125476590873?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338268676&toolid=10044&customid=CjwKCAjw5P2aBhAlEiwAAdY7dOrX9oOo3Y6mLeSrq_P9an5OREpKdnRfXsJJe3a1ZFyFjXWsu0MSNBoCk3kQAvD_BwE

Its certainly not right! The 'dent' looks like someone attacked it with a hammer and nail! Looking at the surface there is little evidence that its been surface ground or face milled, so bearing in mind the potential deck height difference, I'd hazard a guess that someone tried DIY surfacing with emery paper and a sheet of glass, leaned on one side too heavily without swapping ends!

I think Suzuki claimed 71.7 ftlbs at launch, but review figures start at around 62 ftlbs to 65 and 68 ftlbs. Either way, not that impressive when compared to a GSXR1100 'L' that Suzuki claimed 85 ftlbs - and that was backed up in several reviews +/- 1 or 2 ftlbs LOL! A confusing quote . . . Why would a 'Faired bike' have / get less HP & Torque ! ! !

If that is the ring gap in the bore - oh dear, i'm not surprised its drinking oil. I'd guess in bore ring gaps should be 0.1 - 0.2mm with service limit x3 that? The amount of oil on the pistons and plugs is telling! Bore doesn't look bad but it is worn enough that there is no cross hatch hone marks visible . . . . . end of life IMO.

Yeah I've had it done with overbored GSX and GSXR barrels. From memory cut was about 30 - 40mm wide and 20 - 25mm deep. Whether it achieved anything was undetectable as it was done with other tuning work at same time but as the 1st shop that did it was a fairly successful race bike shop, I wasn't going to argue and demand proof LOL!

One of my daily's used to puff blue smoke on cold start-up, every day, never worried about it, it was just annoying. History of bike - was first owned by an old boy who did little miles, neighbour bought it to run up and down motorway for work and then sold it to me after about a year. At that time, it was 15 yrs old with 7k miles up from new! Leak down showed rings gone but at that mileage certainly weren't worn out so I had the rings changed and bore deglazed. It was like a new bike again and i'd guess the old boy never really loaded up the engine so rings never bedded in, and the bores glazed over so the rings would never seal. Sometimes the obvious isn't the problem - a leak down will point to the problem area and is a good diagnostic tool if available!

Generally yes, but the extra gearing loads the turbo making it work harder. Take a std geared gsxr, add a decent turbo and it'll easy take 3 or 4 teeth on the front and accelerate just like std.

What is different about the cam chain? All 1100's (1052 and 1127) used std roller chains! What does it say on the base of the barrels?

I think ^^^ nailed it - the effect is called a syphon, and it will continue once started until air enters the 'inlet' side. Law of Physics can be a bastard sometimes LOL!

Sounds more like ' I heard about this on the internet the other day' with no proof. As said above what about the axle and holding the sides of the van together with nothing between the doors. Then what happens once they reverse over the intended target - they have to winch it up off the ground and support it on what? Someone's dream I think - why f**k around when three big lads can throw an average bike into a van in 20 - 30 seconds and be gone!

I have to agree - they just aren't that good. Had to larf at removing the original lock, how long to remove the security bolts then replaced with std. cap heads when you can buy new security bolts! I know we've all done it but on a vid about 'security' its funny!

There used to be a video on Youtube (I think) or maybe it was hosted on Ian Kings Dragbike site showing the full process done by Brian Johnson in his shed - that guy had skills beyond his facilities - Respect! As skulls go, that's quite a slim one and pretty high compression as there is virtually no chamber to speak of!