Gixer1460

Is that an aftermarket switch - OEM ones are usually 'potted' with epoxy where wire/s connect to water / grime proof?

? ? ? - tank vents through the cap assembly so how did you blow air through it?

Seems to imply you have a fuel pump! And if so either the pressure is too high or all 4 float jets are compromised!

Doesn't make much sense as surely the rotor must have a lobe each side, 180 degrees apart, so unless one lobe (the 2-3 in this case) is stupidly worn, the firing point should be same as 1-4 but 180 degrees away? The points cam wiper does wear but you adjust the points to account for that and restore the correct gap !

That'll work ok if you throw it into the spokes - not very subtle breaking though!

Seriously - what do you think? £20 won't usually buy a good seal kit ! ! !

If aftermarket, then something akin to a Mocal 19 row std. width will cope with most things. It may be 'cool and stylish' to have a small cooler which may cope with day to day running but not so clever on a hot day stuck in traffic and cooking the engine - just my personal opinion!

K&Ns and the exhaust ain't going to help unless tuned on a Dyno. Oil in the fuel, depending on quantity could be an issue as 'thick' fuel won't like small jet holes! I wouldn't use the advancer till it's running half way good!

Firstly - if I can get shot of the car, that is next on the agenda! And continuing the off topic - Oh yeah, there isn't much inside those cases that is stock anymore!

Doesn't look 'steam punk' to me LOL! . . . . . .

I'd add a grand on to that figure . . . . https://www.proboost.fi/motorcycle-turbo-kits There are others of course - UK sourced . . . . . http://www.warpspeedracing.co.uk/?page_id=312 maybe a little cheaper but the end bill usually will start with a 3 LOL! Boost is like Crack or Smack - you soon want a bigger & better high!

You've missed an 'O' from the RH 'O-W' . . . . . . obvious to me but maybe not for the electrically challenged!

Apparently R6 or R1 twist grip barrels are 1/3 or 1/4 turn . . . . . . if you like that sort of thing LOL!

I'd say that BOV's aimed at the car / auto market are generally sprung too heavy as cars pull waaaaay more vacuum than a bike ever will - start soft and prepare to go softer, BOV should just about flutter at idle.

What FPR is it? Malpassi ? i'm guessing with a cut down spring to get the low pressure required?

That's pretty much where most of them end up, from what i've seen!

Figure out how low the turbo oil discharge is and if using a 'windscreen washer' type, electric vane pump, then the pump needs its inlet near or below that level due to poor suction + oil will be aerated so even worse for suction. If you are using a mechanical 'oil pump' scavange then they are usually driven off the crankshaft so will be higher up as their suction performance is much better!

Not sure how? Cable drive rotates one way needle & counter goes up and increases, turn the other way and needle hits stop but figures shouldn't decrease due to one way drive? - all very weird!

It's a BOV, not a waste gate and functions with vacuum not boost. Vacuum only available engine side of butterflies.

Oh well, wrong about the tool (must have been some other engine LOL) but i'm guessing the Suzuki manual assumes you have a full shim kit with every size available beside you, for a one out / one in procedure. Nice if you have - but if you haven't, you are sort of back to the cam out method!

I think there is a 'proper' tool that has a forked end that bears on the retainer to compress the spring to allow the shim to be plucked out with a magnet. In the absence of that, i've measured all the gaps, noted down same, Remove the cams, take out and measure shims, work out the +/- required to correct, if lucky swap shims around, and then find correct ones missing and rebuilt the top end!

Company in UK called 'Trigger Wheels.com' does a 50mm 36-1 wheel that will fit a oil cooled engine - they have tested it to 20,000 rpm but don't say with what pick-up - even so, it gives some hope, they are also a good source of all things EFI related. Certainly a 24 tooth wheel in that size is a lot easier to machine on a DIY sized milling machine

Yes the OP is 'merican and the T is a sort of 'cruiser' type - we had the LT - little peanut type tank and rareish over here!

Arttu seems to like 24 - 2 wheels as I believe the sensor can keep up with 36-1 @ higher RPMS! You first describe normal flow and return system then say you'll be using returnless - make yer mind up

Tin Tops by a long stretch!