Gixer1460

Interestingly, your quoted part number - not found ! Kent only list two cams for the GSX11 - SUZ 5 (street) and SUZ 17 (race)!

You may be an old man but you are likely to get some flak for that post!

I'm with Arttu on this one - I can't see the second gear being a problem (I'd never heard about that problem !) particularly as this is happening in 1st gear ! And as said, its not occuring where usual slip occurs. So, I believe this is more of an engagement issue, like, although the lever is fully thrown and clutch should be 'locked' somewhere between the handlebar and the clutch pack there is a hang up stopping full engagement - something like bad adjustment / cable too tight or what I suspect - a frayed cable inner somewhere? I'd try a different cable, if only to elliminate that?

More than likely - you ain't going to be spoiled for choice in those sizes these days!

Good call - I only looked as far as the EFE's LOL! Bandit part numbers different (probably due to their bolts not being drilled for a split pin) but lengths appear to match! Don't mention measurement ! ! !

Do you want someone to fit them as well? Surely you can measure the width of the bracket and add 10mm for a nut and washer? BTW my recommendation above was ASSUMING a M8 bolt - it maybe M10 as I assumed you be aware!

As they are discontinued, a used old stock supply may be located after a couple of years (or not!) You could try a regular bolt supplier - https://www.accu.co.uk/84-socket-shoulder-screws?Material=Stainless+Steel+(A2)&Shoulder+Length+(L)=25mm%2C30mm%2C35mm&Thread+Size+(T)=M8+(8mm)&page=1 or maybe consider a HT regular bolt with an added sleeve to replicate the shouldered regular bolt. As the arm is designed to pivot on the shoulder (and wear a groove into it, as I remember!) if the sleeve span as well = less wear and easier to replace ?

He's not far wrong LOL. From the manual 3.25H 19 4PR and 4.00H 18 4PR. And scribbled beside (as those harder to find in '85) 100/90 H19 & 120/90 H18, so nearly right !

I'm not near my Workshop manual but 100/80 x 19 fronts and 130/70 x 18 (or 19) sounds familiar.

-8 hose ok, imo -10 is better, I wouldn't even use -6 for a head cooler!

Two metres 'may' do it but you'll kick yourself if you are short!

So how do you explain a Dual Pod equipped GSXR1100 working fine with just the addition of a DJ kit ? Yes, a DJ kit modifies the way the slide responds but doesn't require intake 'modification' of airflow. Just turn the rubbers upside down then you aren't wedging the foam against the frame ? And forgive me for noticing but the carbs in the pictures above are slide types so will virtually function quite well without any sort of induction modification IMO.

Can't complain about the 200g LOSS in weight but as regards access - Hmmm! If you put the replacements where the factory wants you to put them, then yes I agree - so put them somewhere else! I had mine under the seat with my turbo install - lift seat instant access, just long plug leads. Getting sticks out from a tight under tank is still a PITA.

Basically whatever you use / find, each individual coil should be no less than about 1.2 ohms and even this is pretty close to the edge for std 30 yr old ICU's which are used to working with 3.0 ohm circuit and 2x 1.2 ohm sticks = 2.4 ohm. The lower the ohms with a 'fixed' voltage, the higher Amps will flow - this is what stresses the ICU's power transistors, so a stick with 1.5 ohm resistance would be ideal. Other useful tip is - if possible - change the spark plugs from 'old style chunky tip' types to the 'thin tip' iridium / platinium type which tend to spark easier with these coils at lower voltages (sticks in series are only working with about 6.5 - 7v! each)

I am guessing that Audi and other OEM's aren't looking for extreme performance gains via the A/W IC's but just to 'take the edge off'. If the turbo is boosting to a couple of bar and its air temps are say 150 deg C then engine water temps of around 90 deg C offers a potential sink for the compressed air temps. Getting compressed air down to ambient is a great goal but most A/A IC's are barely 30-40% efficient so struggle to get a similar high temp down obviously subject to size constraints. My thinking is oil to water oil coolers have been mainstream for a long time so similar performance could be available in air - water IC's?

Great devices for older bikes / cars - absolute PITA for a multi cylinder bike or anything with deep plug holes as you just can't see Jack! Can you imagine trying to do a CBX ! ! !

A very simplified approach would say - how many Holset turbos do you see used against Garretts at the drag strip?

Not saying this is right or wrong way - but its my way LOL Turn carbs right way up so float is drooping and hold them in a vice or suchlike to give two hands free. Then move float up until the tang over the float valve plunger is just starting to compress it, then measure from middle of float seam to float bowl gasket surface. Alternatively mount rack in vice all assembled and add 4No. clear plastic tubes to bowl drains and secure them beside each carb body, open the drain taps with free fuel flow from header tank - once all bowls full you should be able to see relative levels compared to one another and compared to what manual says they 'should be'

Even more bizarre!

Saw this on a totally non bike YT channel and wondered if anyone recognised it? It has an interesting IC at the front but you can't see much more - its all 'background' type viewing. If you want to see it on YT this is the link : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qU2BI7WignY&t=292s - Craig @ DynoTorque is the business!

Besides having the engine running as well as you can get it, plenty of fuel as a long dyno session will drink it, plenty of your methanol injection fluid, tyres correct pressures, take off anything that is liable to fall off or get in the way of straps to hold bike down and make sure that the tuner knows his way around your ecu's software - you don't want him 'learning' on the job!

I believe that the cam cover is only integrated to the extent of the SACS cooling circuit. All head lubrication is via the ports,channels and galleries in the crankcase, then barrels and into the head to the cam bearings. If it wasn't for the gallons of oil being pumped up the cooling lines, you could run the engine, cam cover off, to see if decent amounts of oil were getting to where it was required!

Thats why they quote air gaps! Less air gap = harder spring effect and that can be felt!

I was guessing / hitting the old memory on wire colours and using 'std.' suzuki colours but as you've indicated there is a variation. The Orange/white will be ign. live power in and is common to both coils. #1 yellow/white is LT trigger. I'm wary about saying Black/white is correct as that colour is usually an earth or ground wire colour ! Are you sure its white as over the years yellow will pale significantly so it could have been originally yellow and not white? On your diagram the LH coil (#1) has spark leads going to cyl 1 and cyl 4 . . . . . . . the RH coil has spark leads going to cyl 2 and cyl 3. It makes no difference which post is used for which lead as long as they go to the right coil. If you are likely to get confused just put small cable ties around each lead - 1 for cyl 1, 2 for cyl 2 etc - its fool proof and even easy to identify in the dark !