Gixer1460

Don't believe everything you see on UTube as gospel - a sizable proportion is posted by people who want to 'be a famous youtuber' but have little knowledge or understanding about what they host ! ! ! At least you've acknowledged the item you've bought is a 'knock off' Whether it works correctly only time will tell. And yes the modules are powered all the time as is the ignition coil - when in your case the ign. points are closed. When replacing the points with the DS3-2, a magnet takes over from the points and breaks the low tension windings in the coil/s which collapses the magnetic field inducing a voltage in the high tension windings that produces a spark. This happens REALLY quickly ie. 4 cyl bike @ 900 rpm idle the coil / s are being charged and discharged 15 times per second and obviously something like 165 times / second @ 10k rpm! Its also why ign. is powered 'key on' otherwise coils permanently 'on' would overheat and / or flatten the battery double quick time!

We know and we aren't on commission!

All SZ Katana's were built between 1980 - 1981/2 ie. the early ones 1074cc - the new models 1135cc were semi welded in the factory, although that can be improved upon! Any tuning that improves the engines breathing and thus increases the torque, really needs a welded crank. Only a fool would try a turbo without prepping the bottom end and if the crank is being pulled apart swapping in 493 Katana rods is a damn good idea before re-assembly and fully welding the pins (thats where the skill is needed!)

May be ok but as the strainer has a bulge this may be designed to fit into sump pan in a certain way to maintain suction clearance - can't answer that, only you can.

Why the swap - Iridiums don't have much benefit unless you want to run super lean or your ignition system isn't up to scratch! Those don't look to have ever got hot enough to burn off the carbon - pretty sooty, not enough miles to colour the porcelain for a true read!

Can do but the extra pipe air volume may slow activation of the gate - a short line to the gate is preferred so a separate guage line from plenum is usual choice!

From my own experience #1 with a suck thro 1186 kit, 12.5:1 pistons and decomp plate and #2 draw thro EFI 1460 kit with 9.5 CR, the forged pistons can be quite forgiving in terms of higher CR with higher boost. With #1 it got abused with 9:1 CR 10lbs boost and 35 deg timing, #2 equally has had maybe 25-28psi forced in without any issues. If you keep the boost 'sensible' say in the 7-8psi range and maybe give the cams some overlap, you probably won't need to change the CR which also has the bonus of a nice engine off boost. Just my personal opinion - others may disagree!

I'd try 140 mains and see what the effect is and how much it changes the AFR and temps. Ultimately you may need more cooling!

I wouldn't like cruise AFRs much more than 14.7. Overrun is ok up between 15-16:1. I like WOT afrs between 11.5-12.5 depending on boost level! My personal preferences!

Yeah - sorry, forgot about 5.1 - really extreme temps LOL!

Its not actually! Dot 5 which is silicone based is the one that doesn't affect paint, 4 will happily eat paint as well. The DOT ratings defines relative fluid boiling points - 3 is fine for most 'everyday' applications, 4 is higher and better for racing or barrelling down alpine roads with a caravan behind you LOL! Word of caution don't try mixing mineral based oils with silicone ones - it'll end in tears and no brakes!

Few builds feature 'turbo' specific cams and at the power level you want, just stick with std ones set with 110 LCs which seems to help with blown engines

Has it ever run in this configuration? I've never seen / used or played with an Ignitech Racing 3 unit, so treat anything said as guesswork! There are some strange setting figures in some of that set up that don't make 'normal' sense? I don't know how the unit synchronises with the std wide tooth and that may be an issue? The signal trace is odd - wide tooth is obvious then there should be 3 more equally spaced - but they aren't ? And there is no output on the 2nd channel? Dwell time seems excessive - I usually have a setting of 3000 - 3500 microsecs

At least he's / she's / they are trying to contribute and not using this as a cheap Eblag site! An acceptable first post abit a tad late

The Haynes maybe in Black & White but all the colours are noted on the wire routes - its not that tricky to follow! Only real difference between the GS and GSX will be ignitions ( points vs electronic ) also the daft light feed wired from the RR on the GS, so potentially interchangeable although nothing is guaranteed!

Bigger and shiney is generally not worth the effort. Bigger carbs mess with where you are 90% of the time and the only polishing worth doing is the cyl. head chamber and even that only lasts for a few hundred miles!

Seems a bit down considering stock M's were claimed 150 with 40mm CVs - I know that was crank but did have quiet exhaust! My L with 36 CVs and a pipe made 126 rwhp!

Unlikely, nor have I heard of it being done.

Unless the symptoms at wot are on the road or on a Dyno, you can't tell what it needs but only going up 10 points it is likely deffo lean - it's a radically different intake & exhaust from stock. And K&N's aren't restrictive! But CV carbs don't particularly like individual pods - duals work better!

Absolutely, as boost is applied to the float bowl and if fuel pressure doesn't track it, you'll run lean!

Certainly either AFR or Boost guage will give more useful info whilst in use! A fuel pressure guage mounted after FPR can be useful initially but most will adjust so that floats don't leak without using a guage. Is this NA or Blown? If the latter, you will require a pump having potential for 120 - 125% minimum pressure to acommodate boost over base pressure don't forget!

Begs the question - why?

All AC 1100 heads will fit / work with all 1100 bottom ends - even 1100 OC heads fit and can be made to work. EFE / 1150 heads generally liked for cleaner styling but no great performance gain. Lots of aftermarket cams available if performace required - std cams meh!

Tests on NA ram pipes show that any radius more than 90 - 100 degrees perpendicular to airflow produces little increases. As regards pipe opening to internal plenum face - a minimum of 10mm is recommended - more is better and closer to the outlet wall is maybe best position. If you want steel ram pipes you could use Weber DCOE pipes 17mm is their shortest I think, and dia's of 40, 45, 48 & 50.

All 'oldskool' turbo's used to be draw / suck through, so yes everything will fit providing you don't go mad with the whistle! Whilst a S&S carb would be period correct a Miki HSR would work better.