Gixer1460

Holy thread reserection and for a different 'new' bike ! ! ! Don't know exactly but Suzuki have used white and yellow for feeds to dip and main or main and dip respectively for years. Just buy a manual - Clymer are good for coloured wire diagrams - and they are useful for other things also!

Blandit or GSXR ?

What ?

What you are seeking - as others have said - is consistancy! Unfortunately a road or an average RWYB surface (unless its SP) will be variable to the extent no consistancy is possible. In that case, a two step may not be the best solution. Some clutch tuning may help but if its a ride to and from, road bike you will be limited in what is possible whilst getting used to controlling and riding through enevitable wheelies! Softening compression and increasing rebound on rear shock will help as will strapping the front forks and as Clive says 15psi is a good starting rear tyre pressure (just don't forget to pump it up again if riding home - yes we've all done it!)

Re : tuning them, not a clue but i've a set of 41's to do in the future. But the airfilters - thats easy . . . . . use the oval foam pods from RamAir or similar. They stretch over the stacks easily and will be retained by them. A light coat of filter oil will improve them markedly!

You can if you accept max of 0.5bar boost with no headroom to increase + the pistons will be a weak point even with restricted boost

If u are spinning the wheel, the clutch and chassis needs work.

This assumes there is mechanical aptitude / compitance available as a modified engine and turbo builds ain't a feature in Haynes manuals LOL.

If you can't or won't do the majority of the grunt work yourself . . . . . . there is NO budget option, no ifs or buts, it will cost!

Multi purpose bikes taken racing will always be compromised in one area or another! Generally with straightline racing, the launch is essential for ET and is a combination of clutch and chassis (the bit often forgotten). You need consistancy of how the clutch reacts, how you engage it, at what rpm and what the chassis does when engaged. Unless you go to expense of multi stage or slider clutches paired with auto boxes and sophisticated launch & ignition controls that can hold rpm to set point within 50rpm whilst WOT just on bite point, everything else is viariable and thus less consistant. Feathering / feeding in a clutch is a slow way and kills 60ft and short track times - as a basic set-up, you can tune the clutch stack height in combination with the clutch springs and lock-up weights. This will allow you to dial in a rpm and 'throw the lever' - no feathering whatsoever, you let the clutch slip itself into full lock up. Its a huge subject and not something that can be solved via the net - only testing, testing, testing works LOL! Obviously this type of launch could result in wheelies - without chassis mods! A chassis that absorbs the hit in a controlled way and then extends down track is essential . . . . . . or fit bars and smash the launch

While its 'nice to know' type information, unless you are using it for a safety engine shutdown on loss of pressure, its a bit of overkill - these engines very rarely suffer from low oil pressure and when they do, the bottom end is usually scrap anyway.

You sir are then excused your error in good taste

Is it Turbo'd or 1600 big bore? . . . . . . . then yes, best not mention it!

Dunno - we don't do 'new' bikes!

Also not sure where 120psi comes from? Is that what you require? If so, it's waaay to much and would deffo push oil temps skyward and be totally unnecessary!

Only one ? ? ? - I'm sure they are more popular than that !

If you are talking Aircooled GSX and oil cooled GSF (ie Blandit?) then no they aren't the same - in fact radically different! A stock GSX oil pressure will be 10 - 15psi (maybe) hot, often lower whilst a oil boiler will seldom drop below 40 - 50 psi hot, when cold they'll often be 80 + psi. Its all about the bearings - ball and rollers Vs shell types!

Some responses to points raised (only my opinions, others may differ!) - Text in RED

Well 40 or 41mm ID carbs tend to use the 1100M rubbers so I would use those as 38mm ID carbs can be a squeeze in 1200 rubbers

I would imagine that, as the 1200 has larger cylinder bores when compared to the 600 the inlet spacings will vary correspondingly with offsets to get back to the 80-80-80 spacing so finding correct offset rubbers will be a mission! Alternatively use a set of rubbers that works for the head, and respace the TB's to suit !

Then the push rod is too short or the lever at the master is incorrect ratio and moving too much fluid?

Whilst that may be possible with car / truck / tractor blocks, it is virtually impossible through the bottom of a bike crankcase - as others have said either 2 x 2 or all 4 together is possible with a couple of pairs of hands!

Got one sitting here with exactly that problem - minimal plate tooth wear on the actual hub, but steel insert is loose with visible gaps!

Prob. US list as the Yanks didn't get the 'GSX' per se - called everything GS!

The GS pistons are 2 valve and the GSX are 4 valve, so no not interchangable!