Gixer1460

Oil feed from main gallery below the Ignition cover - will require adapter and either hose fitting or banjo & bolt. Return - anywhere higher than running oil level if pumped return, usually top of clutch cover is practical - requires weld on fitting or tap and fit adapter for min. dash 8 hose! Don't use the oil filler / crankcase vent - you'll need that regardless!

A push fit like that is airtight like a sausage in a hoola hoop when boosted air pressure is involved. Stock installation is at atmospheric pressure ie. zero - throw 1 psi at it and it'll leak like a sieve! You may get away with a liberal coating of RTV in the groove and around the rubber flanges but its got to resist any movement liable to split it putting / taking the carbs off and on.

Nice - but how do you ensure they are sealed to the box once its all welded up?

Well I stand corrected then - I guess 90+ ftlbs helps with 5 gears!

Thought that was Blandit gearing? Pretty sure my 'K / L' gearing was 15/45 stock. But i've run 14 and 17 front and never thought I need another gear!

Go with APE - tried and tested 000's of times - well trusted and regarded!

Plastic resin holds the fibres together - it was a 'tongue in cheek' remark!

Lesson - don't send a plastic pipe to do a metal mans job! LOL

Stage 3 DJ is probably way to fat for just a can and filter! Changing plugs won't change mixture so revert to std and get the AFR sorted. Doesn't matter how free flowing the filters are, if its to fat to burn its too fat! Internet tuning is never really successful - book a few hours on a dyno and get it right!

If you are going to 'end feed', its best to taper down towards the last carb to keep the airflows a bit sensible - centre feed is an option cos a) it reduces that effect and b) you don't keep bashing your knee on it! Dunno about pitot size - 3/8 or 10mm max rings a bell? Air inlet - no smaller than turbo outlet - why strangle it? and larger only reduces pressure and gets re-strangled at the plenum. Gas speed helps pitot function IMO.

LOL - don't fancy yours much!

Yeah that'd be good - looking at something not moving! LOL

Ha Ha Ha! yer big Gurl! I didn't need a rev limiter on my old Kawazuki .......drag bars + turbo + no protection meant 155 was as fast as it would ever go before I got blown off the back - think 18 stone parachute!

I thought 'No Nails' glue was more your style!

I'm sort of puzzled by their quoted rwhp figures 226hp @ 0.4bar boost and 362hp @ 1.3bar !!! A N/A engine making 125hp (bloody good for a bandit) is only taking in an additional 40% air/fuel so should only make another 50hp so how is it possible? Likewise that same engine (which actually has to be de-compressed to cope) is taking 130% more air/fuel so potentially adds 150hp = 275hp ??? Even Busa engines decompressed a bit only hit close to 300 @ 1 bar boost - just saying the #'s don't stack up. I know what it takes to make 370hp and its considerably more than offered in those kits - just saying!

Re Comp. Ratio see here........ http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/885-gsxr1300-pistions-and-750-dot-head/&page=1

No its not and it will suffer for it. By the time you add enough spring weight to stop the slip you'd be hard pressed to pull in the lever! Nothing makes mid range torque like a turbo and that's exactly where the plates give up!

Glad you found such an easy bolt on conversion - congrats

Get Mk1 Busa pistons with 20mm pins as will fit blandit rods - the later mk2 ones have 18mm pins As they are 81mm dia. the block will need boring. Bak in the day the best turbo ready pistons were 80mm MTC GSX1150 - perfect deck ht. and compression was right, and thy were strong! Not sure if anyone does a specific turbo piston off the shelf as they need a thick crown to machine a bowl into, flat tops are ok but don't burn as well as a bowl and decent squish at the edges!

On low boost - intercooler waste of time! Stock pistons if you can keep low boost - maybe ok..... but I bet you won't! Busa piston cheap alternative as they are forged as stock from memory but like anything a bad tune will kill them just as easy! An IC is worthwhile only if you are pushing higher boost consistantly ie Bar and a half and more, when air intake temps start skyrocketting! Causes other complications as the ideal place compromises air flow to the oil rad so affects engine reliability - everything has to be factored in!

On a blow through the ex. manifold is carrying a lot of weight on very short tubes - 2mm 304 or 316 stainless is sort of standard spec - some form of hangers to share the weight onto the frame will help. A lot of installs have the elec. pumps hidden down low so just cos you can't see them doesn't mean their not there! A high turbo is easy to say - not necessarily easy to achieve! The rad., the wheel and suspension movement all conspire to make it difficult!

A scavenge pump isn't necessarily required - all depends on how well you fabricate the exhaust manifold! Get the turbo high enough and gravity drain is still practical. Personally i'm not a fan of electrical suction type pumps and use a mechanical, crank driven scavenge - always there, always working. Also budget for a decent ignition as a weak spark will not light a boosted cylinder! AFR gauge - Wideband Lambda - damn near essential for tuning etc.

There's nothing wrong with a GSXR / Blandit bottom end - it how they get treated that kills 'em. If you over-rev them ie. consistantly over 11,000 you'll snap them, excess revs + other areas that lead to oil failure will also kill the big ends and will usually take the crank pins out as well. 250hp was generally taken as the rod limit when using nitrous - turbo's are softer on rods but 300 is probably the upper limit as you don't rev a turbo motor......there's just no need!

More words in explaination...... Comp ratio ie 8 (ie 8:1) multiplied by boost max used in Bar ie 1 bar = 14.7psi plus the CR ie 8 again, all must be equal to or less than 16...... so you get ........ 8 x 1 = 8 + 8 = 16. so that would be ball park. Lets go more extreme........ 7 x 2 + 7 = 21 so could be too much. Personally I think that formula is a bit conservative as using my own build numbers I get ........9.5 x 2.5 + 9.5 = 33.25 which is definitely the wrong side of 16! Now maybe I got lucky but don't think so. One question is - are you using carbs and normal ignition or EFI and engine management? I believe that the former set-ups cannot control fuelling / ign. timing accurately enough to get the optimal performance out - the latter allows better control without random fluctuations that cause detonation and engine failure. Very few get it bang on right first time - its just how badly its wrong that makes or breaks a build.

Would be a near stock swop - virtually no mods required except jetting!