Gixer1460

Its sad - the 3 axis bits look soooo smooth and shiney - makes everything else look bad! Its not bad, bad, just looks rough if you know what I mean? My CNC mill is so small i'd have to turn that part around and do it in two halves - I have tool envy!

Don't read too much into the different EGT's - they started about 70 apart and stayed roughly 70 apart so unless you can individually recalibrate them that's what they'll read - we always had a spread on kev's FB up to 100 degrees but were looking at trends on a run rather than the actual temps - the one that read the hottest was checked for accuracy and read higher than reality so that was the benchmark. Anyway's at idle you won't learn much - can you data log the ecu? better to short rides with increased revs / load and then analyse and adjust.........................or dyno it?

If its a Mk1 1200 - you have 36mm carbs! they are virtually identical excluding the jetting!

Whilst i've used Dyna 'S' on plenty of engines it ain't exactly cutting edge is it! Mechanical advance, no retard facility or rev limiter - might as well use Breaker points ! Agree with the Mag thing though but when they do work you get a bloody big fat spark that would ignite water!

Maybe but they are a biggish sucker and not exactly sophisticated. Sort of one step down the evolutionary ladder from the 'E' models!

Exactly - the actual camshaft position isn't critical to spark or injection timing - just to indicate where in the cycle the engine is - its generally known as a sync sensor ie. it synchronises the ecu timing to, generally, cylinder #1.

Recharge time doesn't make any difference if running wasted spark which most are ! It needs a cam sensor and an ecu that can run sequentially for any benefit.

No - its the round one with the allen key center down below and in front of the timing cover as above! Its the main crank oil gallery so make sure your adapter don't leak!

Hey - the sleeper awakens! Sell him my old S&S Shorty E then he can make the old donkey live again!

All depends on what pistons are in there - Wiseco, JE, Busa? - Once you know that i'd recommend Debben Performance - Ray and Steve know their stuff!

Subtle difference - throttle body is a fuel injection part, carbs are carbs. Due to the restriction of the turbo the smaller bore carbs will draw better off boost and the turbo will pump air to make the real power.

A M8 used a set of FCR41's on a 1216 gsxr/bandit and although set up perfectly / had good top end, he lost so much in the midrange he's now swopped back to RS36's and loves them for day 2 day riding and hooning around!

Depends on what GT25 you select ! Personally I think a GT2560R would do it but not ideally suited - I'd prefer a GT2859R or 60R unless you want to run lots of boost (and therefore heat!) all the time? Std. plastic topped CV36's will hold boost for a while but will eventually let go - swopping 'down' to tin topped 34mm CV's is usually bombproof. Again its down to what boost you are running but usually a smallish EFI pump and good regulator is required with a fuel return to the tank - must work at 2psi ie. off boost upto 15-16psi @ 1bar or more? Again, personally - an EFI system saves on engineering over a lot of these issues and releases more usable power through more accurate control of fuelling and timing!

Apologies - Tired!

Jason - i'd change your sig M8 - its 1186 not 1216!

That's the beauty of copper - its soft enough to tolerate a degree of block / head imperfection - as long as its annealed first!

Lambda sensor placement is critical when using a dump pipe! When flow is low it will be fooled by atmospheric air so indicating lean condition. I've got my ecu sensor at the collector pre turbo - against all the advise mind you but if the back pressure kills it after a few '000's miles its not the end of the world to replace with a new one + its more accurate as direct from cylinders not with added turbo oil ! ! !

Those mounts / rubbers are found on the GSXR type motors - never seen them removed from the cases before!

You can't clamp as tight with stock 'springy studs and nuts - Go and raid the stores Clive, you know APE makes sense! And copper don't leak if its done right....... 2 bar + and no leaks here.

I knew you wouldn't be able to leave it alone! I was working on a EFI intake with injectors mounted in it so I could use a Throttle body in place of the carb - new tech meets old tech meets vintage!

Honestly 40's are too big for the 1100M / N and they are a bitch to set up. If you want to keep the torque monster feel of the GSX - go with 36mm CV's - 36mm RS flaties even better!

I think you've got your KG's confused with your lb's - no way is a Buell 880lbs! And at 440lbs its a bit lighter than a std GSXR - not a lot but you've added 10-15 kgs of turbo stuff!

So?........................which bit gave up its life in pursuit of sub 10 seconds......valve, head gasket or piston?

Its a brave (or foolish) man that rides a 200+hp turbo bike with a single front brake - which are you?

Thank you sir! - I aim to please!