Gixer1460

Good illustration of differences - ignore that they are Keihin FCR's! _ the angle of the inlet and float bowls is the important thing

On the up side.......at least the crank and rods should be salvageable.............ok! i'm getting my coat!

They are and the spacing at 86 - 92 - 86 is way off! Sorry - walk away from the dark side

As the needle never completely leaves the tube it will have an effect - the MJ basically governs overall fuel flow whilst the needle regulates throughout the range. Do a plug chop whilst riding where is roughest to give a steer on whether fat or lean

And type and if it has the right bits on it!

No it doesn't John - throw the phone away!

It does but the tubing arrangement around the headstock seems wrong, some of the tubes seem a bit 'wimpy' and weren't tube swingers standard at the time? Rounded box section is a bit out of the ordinary! Reference the picture for comparison

The problem is gonna be what size is the sender? The suzuki cap screw 'cover' is M14 or M16 and once you bore and tap the centre out you can't tighten it! May be easier to swop it out for a normal hex bolt and a dowty seal / washer and put the sensor in that?

Whats wrong with good 'ol fashioned scaffold pole crash bars - crash - bend - straighten - race!

Not wanting to get into a pissing contest but that's the first time I've ever heard anyone call stock studs 'precision machined items' - If your lucky they are forgings with a rolled thread so hardly a precision operation! Clamping pressure comes down to area and torque - APE studs and the stupidly thick bolts used in Busa motors these days have probably 50% greater cross sectional area each step - stock GSXR - APE GSXR - APE Busa allowing respectively greater torque to be applied to the nut / stud combination! Not unheard of busa's with 6-700hp @ 2.5 bar boost using 90+ ftlb torque figures to survive!

LOL - rubbish in........rubbish out!

Nice one Arttu - looks a good bolt on solution for the Dino motors!

Triggerwheels.com or .co.uk do a 50mm dia one!

They are usually paired up with a 36-1 tooth wheel - heres a pic of that type of wheel on a GSXR so loads of space in a GSX cover and it'll use the std inductive pick-up!

Never used one of these nor have any product ties but as a ready built budget ecu with support - what's not to like! http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/microsquirt-engine-management-system-30-wiring-harness-p-131.html

New bearings, fully welded and straightened - ideally dowelled as well + the straight cut primaries!. Easy way to spend a grand!

Pretty piss poor instructions full stop and its not waterproof - not a good thing on a bike! Quality costs - how much do you want to spend and bearing in mind the application, it's going to need all the help it can get!

Oil pressure and modern turbos! Plain bearing turbos will not survive with std GSX 5 - 10psi pressure. Has to be increased and even with 750 gears the 30psi is marginal based on turbo specs. Ideal would be to use a BB cored unit - more expense though! Rajays still work well on draw through installs - harder to find these days but the bearing arrangement suits low aircooled oil pressures!

No just a bloody good gear based boost controller LOL!

450+

No build thread - was featured in Streetfighters mag - was built a fair few years ago and had a Mitsubishi hybrid turbo when they were 'state of art' - I'd deffo have a BB turbo now. It never achieved the target it was built for so there is more if I can get motivated again!

Turbos are relatively soft on rods and generally its lubrication failure or deficiency that kills them so that is the one critical area to make sure is right! And yes phill106 it was a big money build and well into 5 figures - mostly not by me happily!

When one of mine got a crack in the fitting to core I did find someone to weld it but the guy wouldn't give any guarantee of success as it'd always be a contaminated weld from the inside - always leaked a bit thereafter so I had to replace it! Sorry - probably not what you want to hear!

Just out of interest do the 1052 rods have 20mm or 18mm pins - think I know answer but asking anyway?

Picture and personal experience stated - seems conclusive!