Gixer1460

Why is the answer always...................................................GOOGLE IT!

Safe to say......................don't trust the gauge! You've probably got nearly 5 gallons main tank so i'd brim the tank and zero the trip and ride as normal - its got to do 40-45 miles / gallon so a potential range of 200-225 miles whilst still tap is 'on' but you really need to establish 'on' and 'reserve' for peace of mind - sorry can't help you there!

For me, I wouldn't have used the 'vacuum' ports for fuel reg as this will try to lower fuel pressure when throttles are closed - ok with EFI and is the norm but not necessary with carbs. They just need a static FP that rises dynamically with boost that is sourced from the pitot tube.

I think for a Compbike you may end up overpowering the chassis! CB is restricted on tyre size these days and a 10" is really going to struggle with 300 odd hp! If its a big tyre then you jump straight into FB and play with the big boyz in which case - GT3071R blow through, Intercooler, methanol, compress the hell out of it and go racing. T3's are a bit old skool, certainly capable of carbon sealing and a bit big for what they give and probably not that common anymore - pointless buying a cheap one if it needs £250 worth of rebuilding. That size engine sounds like GSX / KZ? in which case oil pressure will be marginal for plain bearing turbos - the BB blow thro' ones score here.

As above - mods required for chain clearance BUT unless you are running a good load of extra power, a 17 front will pull like a slug - its equal to 6 or 7 off the back!

A fairing doesn't have to mean airflow free! They do look quite vulnerable for a race bike as well?

That is BAD! But i'd have to add a fairing just to hide the coolers LOL!

If I had to look around, i'd seriously consider the MS3 Pro - does sequential everything, as clever as most out there, small / compact, is COMPLETELY waterproof and is competitively priced - perfect for bike application and the associated tuning / data analysis software isn't bad either. Edit - Seller has revised waterproof to 'splashproof' but unit can be immersed in few inches of water for a few minutes - I read that as pretty waterproof in most cases of use!

M8 - you've just given access to all your business quotes to everyone! Probably not a good move?

Or Sharpies 'Magic Markers' / similar felt tip marker pens - work just the same. Who knew WH Smiths did engineering supplies!

Funnily enough there are still 36 teeth on a 36 tooth wheel whether its 50mm or 500mm LOL!

I second the grinding paste option - get both surfaces nice and uniform grey and matt finish. Then windy gun the crap out of the bolt. A more drastic solution is use diamond dust impregnated grease used by Ford to secure non keyed cam wheels to camshafts - the diamond dust locks them real tight!

Never known a bearing supplier have white metal shell bearings - such a specialist item so good luck.

The mechanical advance is usually foolproof - they either work or they don't! Check that first. Easier than swopping to a dyna 2000 just for the retard (which IMO doesn't work that well) is fit a switch in the ignition live feed so you can spin the motor over without ignition then once its spinning hit the fire switch! Usually easier to spin over if its not trying to spark as well!

Back to the dark ages ! ! ! All it needs is a magneto and it can run at vintage events!

Ooooooh! Pink Torpedo that sounds a bit rude! LOL

DOH ! Yes brain fart time - Displacement halved true! I though we were talking VM29's not 33mm smoothbores? That was my point - whilst the 29's were fine on a 750 their airflow potential would be lacking on an 1100 unless they were bored out to 'say' 33mm where they would probably work better than a 34 or maybe a 36mm CV? Any slide carb will have a better airflow rating when compared to a comparable CV carb just because there is no butterfly & shaft blocking nearly 10% of the bore!

If its an import from Uncle Sam, that'll explain it - they call everything Katana - aircooled, oil cooled and water cooled! They also didn't have the GSX as a range - early ones were GS1100's and later ones (our EF / EFE) were GS1150's to add to the confusion!

I have no specific evidence of this but i'd say lobe centres of 108 - 110 degrees is probably optimal for N/A - figures nearer 103/104 degrees are more suited to turbo's with minimal overlap. My draw through 1186 made 210hp @ 10psi and the 1460 was 370hp @ probably 20 odd psi ! I've never checked intake temps but would expect them to be well north of 100 deg C even with the intercooler!

Why fit N/A gearing when you have loads of turbo torque to pull taller gearing (bonus is nicer ride not having to stir the box constantly!) I used 17/45 on my Kawazuki and have 17/40 on the 1460.

It was nothing to do with wheeling - a manufacturer produces a bike like a Blandit that wheelies everywhere then fits a wire to electronically stop it? Yeah Right! IT was an emissions thing - not fuel economy but noise / sound! Bikes had to be tested at a certain rpm and if you make the engine 'flat' in that range = Pass test!

750's had 29mm VM's as std - 0.75L @ 13,000 = 9750L / minute requirement. 1100 - 1.1L @ 10,500 = 11550L / minute requirement. So an 1100 with std 29mm VM's would be desperately breathless!

Yes the links are physically smaller so you'll have more of them but the gearing remains the same!

Without trying to sound smart - whatever size chain you use, if you use 15/41 sprockets nothing changes! Personally I'd prefer 530 but both will work - might pay more money for a 520 to get quality?

The TMR's are 'I believe' made in magnesium, have roller slides and are absolutely lush! Closer to Keihin FCR's than std Miki RS flatties but more expensive, desirable and rarer!