Gixer1460

I aim to please as I said to Jennifer Lawrence the other night!

Shouldn't be a problem - weird place for a crack......usually through or beside a weld or has someone been to enthusiastic with a grinder?

A cv of any type tolerates 'ham fisted' throttle application better than a slide carb. You can yank the throttle open wide but the slide will only lift as far or as fast as is required to keep air flow optimised to the fuel delivery metered by the jets which is dependent on air flow. A flatslide can be yanked open, and at low speed will fall flat on its face as air speed rapidly drops, fuel flow reduces etc etc etc. They have accelerator pumps to squirt neat fuel down the throats to mitigate the transition but doesn't always work. If you are respectful of the limitations, you could ride both and not know the difference until a spirited 'roll-on' then you'd know whats what! Edit : Also don't you mean VM29's like from the 750's? They were good on a 750 but if stock i'd imagine a 1100 / 1170 etc would find them a bit wheezy. But bored out to 33mm and could work very well on that size motor for on road use. They don't have pumps that i'm aware of so the same caveats apply re throttle control but should be a torque'y motor but maybe breathless WOT?

I didn't mean that - you are replacing the loom and the ignition with another loom and ignition that are potentially exactly the same! and IMO aftermarket isn't as good as OEM if kept stock as the timing isn't optimised - if the set up changes then its a different matter.

The stock ignition on my GSX750ET WAS electronic! You still have the same amount of wires whatever you choose!

Probably 38mm Mikuni RS flatslides or 39mm FCR Keihins - unless theres a shedload of work done to the engine 40's or 41's would be wasted. If its dragracing / sprinting then 40mm Lectrons are an option.

Ok - there is a pdf which is a bit grainy.........but has all the wire colour codes! and a jpeg that is better resolution but not all the wires! Enjoy! img001.pdf

I'll try and scan my workshop manual later.......

They are M8 size which are 13mm AF in most of the world but usually 12mm AF from Japan! When you've got them out, i'd recommend using M8 studs instead of bolts and copper or brass nuts. Three advantages, studs never have to come out and can corrode in peace, the nuts will strip first and cause no thread damage and its a damn sight easier hanging the exhaust / collets on studs whilst screwing a nut on than finding a threaded hole for a screw!

If you haven't got a meter how do you know the battery is good? It could have started with a boost but a wankered battery won't take a charge and eventually the electrics will die. A couple of volts is enough to click a relay but 8 or 9v ain't gonna crank over. Invest a £10 and get a meter then you'll know.

Ah yes! - the sensible option!

CV's really don't work that well with open mouths / trumpets / ram pipes - WOT maybe but everywhere else they just get confused! I'd say stick with the airbox and mod it with a K&N so good airflow and plenum which CV's prefer.

yep - 1100 is 10,500 and 750 is 13,000 from memory although the std tacho's are usually a mile off so it was anyone's guess what they actually were!

'wet sleeves' thats the phrase I was looking for ! LOL

Got no experience of water cooled blocks but would have thought your best solution is to increase water 'jacket' around the liners prior to fitting them. That and decent water distribution rather than in one end and out the other!

Used the Emtes version and got it from NLR in the States a good few years ago now. I think Stu at Warpspeed can do you one?

You've never looked inside a GSXR engine have you! They do and were designed to run with oil - in. over and around them.....Oil is an insulator and has no electrical effects on magnetic pick-ups...........NOT POINTS!

Ask when the cam chain was last done - it'll be well stretched if original could be a useful bargaining point. If the oil's been changed regular the internals can be immaculate - saw the insides of a M8's 1100L with 65k and you could still see the barrel honing marks and bearings looked new but the cam chain was as slack as a slack thing!

Agreed - there are a few 'no dizzy' solutions now that the old skool car guys are starting to use modern engines but with carbs. Dyna stuff served a purpose years back now newer and cheaper and cleverer stuff is available.

When racing, my old 1186 suffered 40 degrees advance with 10psi thrown at it! Good fuel is everything - 4* / premium unleaded. @ 0.5 bar 4 degrees could be described as overkill even with pump unleaded IMO.

Under the seat, between the frame rails with a R6 fan, switched on via oil temp switch.

This is mine,,,,,,

Yes thats the right kit - fairly universal across old Kawa's and Suzuki's! The advance / retard curve thing is a bit agricultural - true you can develop your own advance curve but the retard activation is still a fixed number dropped on top of where ever the timing is at that point. The advance curve is actually 4 or 5 points so hardly a 'curve' Just MHO and I've had 4 of them so its a strange bias if I am!

Ha! - This was the give away!....." its for drag racing not for street use " And if it was circuit / endurance racing - the number of times those guys drop their ride, it wouldn't last long, hanging out in the breeze. Running off the sprocket is a plan but I guess it would need the gearing sorted to keep the alt. rpm high enough in top gear?

Dyna 'S' or Dyna 2000? If the former you'll need to add the early GSX mechanical advancer and cover, if the latter - nothing its standalone, power, ground and connections to coils - thats it! Electricals for both is about the same.