Gixer1460

Eggsackerly

Without being too obvious - GSXR 1100 K or L or Mk1 GSF1200 Airbox rubbers! Doh! Or use silicone tube - plenty flexible!

Why judge anything? Zero the trip meter - run bike to reserve - work out relative capacities of normal and reserve and you'll have potential range. Just zero trip every time you fill up and you cant go wrong. Never had a fuel gauge and never run out!

Probably won't work at all! GSXR sensor only worked when uncovered / in air. I'm not sure how they function, if NO or NC but it certainly isn't a variable output that the Bandit gauge needs.

Fookin' hell do you cut yerself - you is sharp!

Not surprised something melted - you've got two 15A, one 20A and two 10A's in there - they are all supposed to be 10A's! Taking that connector wrapped in masking tape as an example, i'd reckon you've got deeper electrical issues to sort first - its why the correct rating fuses are needed, they pop - not melt and start fires due to carrying excessive load!

Or fit an ally carb top ...........and notch that!

Could always use a proper bike pump like older R1 used - interupter style so doesn't over pressure the float valve. If the tap is close to the float height then gravity flow will reduce the less fuel there is in the tank and flow could diminish enough that starvation could occur on a 1260 motor @ WOT?

If you are willing to possibly sacrifice a built turbo engine whilst relying on 'auto tune' then crack on. The AFR swings on a turbo engine can be so abrupt that a wideband sensor certainly isn't quick enough to catch it and actually do something about it - average response time for a LSU4 sensor is about 1/10 - 1/5 second but if controller is only scanning once per second - the engine is toast. No respectable tuner would close loop tune WOT with turbo or nitrous - just too risky! Think of all those guys that say they hear 'pinking / detonation' - that's the death knell, damage already happened by then!

The 38mm carbs were fitted with an additional 'PowerJet system' so the fueling could keep up when spinning the motor between 10 - 13,000rpm As most won't ever go near those revs 'day 2 day' they could be described as over carb'd - work good on 1100's though!

Forget modern alternatives - virtually no one uses crank mounted rotor / alternators anymore! You may get a GSX ET type but there getting rarer - you'll have a small crank nose taper so later EFE types won't fit. It'd have to be a pretty bad spin to wear enough that the damage can't be filed / polished / lapped out!

You're on drugs you arse! Might work with a fan blasting air at them or a restricted 600!

Struggling to understand your description! Are you using the std integral wastegate valve hole and routing it internally in the dump pipe and then exit into the external gate? If so, you may suffer with boost spikes - all the twists and turns slow the exhaust bleed off so you get higher boost than the gate is trying to give, so be wary.

Hate to crittique but....... http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r261/proffie_bucket/Facebook/Mobile Uploads/10599664_702460966492605_7043928447046803397_n_zpsxaqg4hb0.jpg Its not actually doing anything! You are taking spent exhaust, passing it through the gate then back into the exhaust! The inlet to the gate should be from the header collector before the turbine not after!

More than a Screwfix compressor is liable to achieve! LOL Needs Nitrogen (its dry - compressed air contains water = rust) I think 250psi would be a place to start!

I do for the gas one - just don't ask me where exactly!.................... Just had a look and its not where I thought it might be!

why's the lambda guage freaking out like that?

I know mate - just yanking yer chain! Thought you'd have grown out of the BB or are you in the 'Glamping' bit? LOL Yeah its one of Trev's -'kin brilliant with NOS pressure behind it but his redneck electronics crapped out and after 3 attempts to repair it I gave up on him and his products - nowt wrong with his soli's but the rest you can shove! Anyway it works just as well with 140psi air - love recycling! The Kwak may be going to a new home shortly on HP - watch this space ...............as I need some in the cave!

That doesn't make any sense - firstly GSXR cranks don't need welding - that is unless you are doing the journals to regrind and stroke them. Secondly I know of plenty GSXR cranks that run 180+hp NA that have 100+hp of gas throw in for good measure.......'they' don't break that easily - the other bits do! You couldn't press together a plain bearing crank - you'd never achieve acceptable journal parallism without regrinding, GSX's have rather 'sloppy' main roller bearings that accept that tolerance of build.

C'mon Clive that's a bit of a lash up compared to the rest of the build - clean straight lines is what you need! Guess what warms the NOS bottle!

That's true - couldn't get a 5mm stroke increase from even a std. fresh cast crank + would probably be too weak even if possible so builder pony'd up for a billet one off. That was about £1800 12 years ago but it was done manually on lathe and mill so the man hours racked up - done now, on a CNC machining centre, I guess the cost could be less. Personally if I was doing anything out of the ordinary and needed a one off crank, i'd make it a flat plane design with the big ends all equally spaced and 90 degrees apart - that'd make an awesome engine, perfect primary balance and rev happy!

Not doubting your engineering skill but surely a spline and matching spigot is going to be tricky to clock up and keep the crank throws all at 90 / 180 degrees to each other and include a sprocket? I'd suspect a interference fit pin and socket pressed together a la GSX type will allow a bit of 'mallet' adjustment prior to welding?

Don't want to sound like an angry lawyer but whilst building your own frame is to be admired (providing your engineering, materials and welding are top notch) but 'dimensionally ripping off' a commercially produced item technically infringes makers copyright. The whole point of a self produced frame is its your creation and doesn't rely on critical dimensions from someone elses! These things are created in a jig - you place the engine, configure where the headstock needs to be with proposed forks and wheel and where swingarm pivot needs to be using whatever s/arm and wheel - then glue it all together with whatever collection of tubes you choose. Just saying is all!

That's amusing - flowing more oil to parts that are not relieved to cope will increase oil pressure in the galleries - it won't make diddly squat difference to actual bearing oil pressure! If you are opening up bearing running clearances then i'd agree that increased flow would be beneficial to get back to std. running pressures but conversely loose clearances are not really to be advised - race or not. So it is 'solving' a problem that doesn't exist. I'm sure Suzuki never modified their oil systems in the factory racebikes other than additional cooling.......that says a lot IMO! Why would you need 120psi oil pressure at idle - there is little or no load on anything! Saying that he's never spun a rod bearing isn't really convincing - i've never spun one either in any of my stock oil pumped / pressured engines, one of which runs 2 bar boost and 370hp!

Most GSXR / oiler engines make excess pressure and have to bleed it off back to sump.....so why increase it? They usually only break when something mechanical goes wrong and it ain't normally the delivery side!