Gixer1460

Triggerwheels.com or .co.uk do a 50mm dia one!

They are usually paired up with a 36-1 tooth wheel - heres a pic of that type of wheel on a GSXR so loads of space in a GSX cover and it'll use the std inductive pick-up!

Never used one of these nor have any product ties but as a ready built budget ecu with support - what's not to like! http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/microsquirt-engine-management-system-30-wiring-harness-p-131.html

New bearings, fully welded and straightened - ideally dowelled as well + the straight cut primaries!. Easy way to spend a grand!

Pretty piss poor instructions full stop and its not waterproof - not a good thing on a bike! Quality costs - how much do you want to spend and bearing in mind the application, it's going to need all the help it can get!

Oil pressure and modern turbos! Plain bearing turbos will not survive with std GSX 5 - 10psi pressure. Has to be increased and even with 750 gears the 30psi is marginal based on turbo specs. Ideal would be to use a BB cored unit - more expense though! Rajays still work well on draw through installs - harder to find these days but the bearing arrangement suits low aircooled oil pressures!

No just a bloody good gear based boost controller LOL!

450+

No build thread - was featured in Streetfighters mag - was built a fair few years ago and had a Mitsubishi hybrid turbo when they were 'state of art' - I'd deffo have a BB turbo now. It never achieved the target it was built for so there is more if I can get motivated again!

Turbos are relatively soft on rods and generally its lubrication failure or deficiency that kills them so that is the one critical area to make sure is right! And yes phill106 it was a big money build and well into 5 figures - mostly not by me happily!

When one of mine got a crack in the fitting to core I did find someone to weld it but the guy wouldn't give any guarantee of success as it'd always be a contaminated weld from the inside - always leaked a bit thereafter so I had to replace it! Sorry - probably not what you want to hear!

Just out of interest do the 1052 rods have 20mm or 18mm pins - think I know answer but asking anyway?

Picture and personal experience stated - seems conclusive!

As they say 'A picture speaks a thousand words' but still confused as a few have been done with turbo builds and they appear to be low comp - certainly not as that picture would suggest....................so remain confused!

You sure Clive? - I always thought they were down the bores and if you use the Busa rods they are above deck?

Yeah - earn some money and spend about 5 times as much and miles of smiles!

If you've the bits lying around why not but you'll still only get you back to standard CR without extra machining and the Busa piston crowns don't match a GSXR chamber once you've decked the block so more potential machining which lowers the CR again. And decking the block that much alters cam timing so adjustments there - lot of pissing around for not a lot of gain IMO. Sell the pistons and head and put the coin into proper high comp JE pistons that work out of the box!

Can't use the pistons AND rods in a GSXR 1100 - they are too tall unless you want to machine the crowns but by the time you put enough dish in there, there wouldn't be much crown left for turbo use! Just use the pistons on 1100 rods - they aren't ideal as the squish is to big but they give a turbo friendly compression that can be played with using base and head gasket thicknesses! They'll take a bit of abuse, hold up to 300hp if set up correct but the ring land is a bit thin so detonation will kill them double quick. Oh other thing - they need to be early Busa pistons - later mk2 had 18mm pins........1100 has 20mm! Regarding compression it depends on how much boost you use! Low boost 'can' work with stock 10.5:1 CR but most can't stay low boost so some lowering is enevitable - I have approx 9:1 in a 1460cc motor that will pull over 2 bar boost but uses lots of tricky stuff to do it!

Its sad - the 3 axis bits look soooo smooth and shiney - makes everything else look bad! Its not bad, bad, just looks rough if you know what I mean? My CNC mill is so small i'd have to turn that part around and do it in two halves - I have tool envy!

Don't read too much into the different EGT's - they started about 70 apart and stayed roughly 70 apart so unless you can individually recalibrate them that's what they'll read - we always had a spread on kev's FB up to 100 degrees but were looking at trends on a run rather than the actual temps - the one that read the hottest was checked for accuracy and read higher than reality so that was the benchmark. Anyway's at idle you won't learn much - can you data log the ecu? better to short rides with increased revs / load and then analyse and adjust.........................or dyno it?

If its a Mk1 1200 - you have 36mm carbs! they are virtually identical excluding the jetting!

Whilst i've used Dyna 'S' on plenty of engines it ain't exactly cutting edge is it! Mechanical advance, no retard facility or rev limiter - might as well use Breaker points ! Agree with the Mag thing though but when they do work you get a bloody big fat spark that would ignite water!

Maybe but they are a biggish sucker and not exactly sophisticated. Sort of one step down the evolutionary ladder from the 'E' models!

Exactly - the actual camshaft position isn't critical to spark or injection timing - just to indicate where in the cycle the engine is - its generally known as a sync sensor ie. it synchronises the ecu timing to, generally, cylinder #1.

Recharge time doesn't make any difference if running wasted spark which most are ! It needs a cam sensor and an ecu that can run sequentially for any benefit.