Gixer1460

I thought 'No Nails' glue was more your style!

I'm sort of puzzled by their quoted rwhp figures 226hp @ 0.4bar boost and 362hp @ 1.3bar !!! A N/A engine making 125hp (bloody good for a bandit) is only taking in an additional 40% air/fuel so should only make another 50hp so how is it possible? Likewise that same engine (which actually has to be de-compressed to cope) is taking 130% more air/fuel so potentially adds 150hp = 275hp ??? Even Busa engines decompressed a bit only hit close to 300 @ 1 bar boost - just saying the #'s don't stack up. I know what it takes to make 370hp and its considerably more than offered in those kits - just saying!

Re Comp. Ratio see here........ http://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/index.php?/topic/885-gsxr1300-pistions-and-750-dot-head/&page=1

No its not and it will suffer for it. By the time you add enough spring weight to stop the slip you'd be hard pressed to pull in the lever! Nothing makes mid range torque like a turbo and that's exactly where the plates give up!

Glad you found such an easy bolt on conversion - congrats

Get Mk1 Busa pistons with 20mm pins as will fit blandit rods - the later mk2 ones have 18mm pins As they are 81mm dia. the block will need boring. Bak in the day the best turbo ready pistons were 80mm MTC GSX1150 - perfect deck ht. and compression was right, and thy were strong! Not sure if anyone does a specific turbo piston off the shelf as they need a thick crown to machine a bowl into, flat tops are ok but don't burn as well as a bowl and decent squish at the edges!

On low boost - intercooler waste of time! Stock pistons if you can keep low boost - maybe ok..... but I bet you won't! Busa piston cheap alternative as they are forged as stock from memory but like anything a bad tune will kill them just as easy! An IC is worthwhile only if you are pushing higher boost consistantly ie Bar and a half and more, when air intake temps start skyrocketting! Causes other complications as the ideal place compromises air flow to the oil rad so affects engine reliability - everything has to be factored in!

On a blow through the ex. manifold is carrying a lot of weight on very short tubes - 2mm 304 or 316 stainless is sort of standard spec - some form of hangers to share the weight onto the frame will help. A lot of installs have the elec. pumps hidden down low so just cos you can't see them doesn't mean their not there! A high turbo is easy to say - not necessarily easy to achieve! The rad., the wheel and suspension movement all conspire to make it difficult!

A scavenge pump isn't necessarily required - all depends on how well you fabricate the exhaust manifold! Get the turbo high enough and gravity drain is still practical. Personally i'm not a fan of electrical suction type pumps and use a mechanical, crank driven scavenge - always there, always working. Also budget for a decent ignition as a weak spark will not light a boosted cylinder! AFR gauge - Wideband Lambda - damn near essential for tuning etc.

There's nothing wrong with a GSXR / Blandit bottom end - it how they get treated that kills 'em. If you over-rev them ie. consistantly over 11,000 you'll snap them, excess revs + other areas that lead to oil failure will also kill the big ends and will usually take the crank pins out as well. 250hp was generally taken as the rod limit when using nitrous - turbo's are softer on rods but 300 is probably the upper limit as you don't rev a turbo motor......there's just no need!

More words in explaination...... Comp ratio ie 8 (ie 8:1) multiplied by boost max used in Bar ie 1 bar = 14.7psi plus the CR ie 8 again, all must be equal to or less than 16...... so you get ........ 8 x 1 = 8 + 8 = 16. so that would be ball park. Lets go more extreme........ 7 x 2 + 7 = 21 so could be too much. Personally I think that formula is a bit conservative as using my own build numbers I get ........9.5 x 2.5 + 9.5 = 33.25 which is definitely the wrong side of 16! Now maybe I got lucky but don't think so. One question is - are you using carbs and normal ignition or EFI and engine management? I believe that the former set-ups cannot control fuelling / ign. timing accurately enough to get the optimal performance out - the latter allows better control without random fluctuations that cause detonation and engine failure. Very few get it bang on right first time - its just how badly its wrong that makes or breaks a build.

Would be a near stock swop - virtually no mods required except jetting!

See here...... http://kryptracer.com/Camshaft___Valvetrain.html Very informative and quite interesting. Make sure the Cams are G21X and G28X as they are different to G21 & G28!

They'll work fine - just be careful on the mounting as its easy to short out the screwed connections!

If you need to add an additional toothed wheel for the EFI (and on anything more sophisticated than a squirt of fuel every firing stroke, that is advisable) then why not - mappable ignition is worth as much as correct fueling especially with forced induction - just cos contact breakers work doesn't mean they are a sensible option?

Yeah but John you haven't used any real power yet ! LOL If you can make a pass with a 2 or 2.5lb bottle yer still only playing

750 = 22 / 23cc and 1100 = 26 / 28cc Ring a bell in my melon hence the 750 head compression increase with just a swop,

Re Divider plate - would depend on where the injectors were placed. Used to be common with a carb set-up, that the air flow would swirl in one way or the other and fuel distribution would go to hell - even with - it wasn't brilliant! Have you any photos of the injection / plenum set-up as I was working on an injection plenum for my old draw through but never finished it, As it originally used a 2 1/4" S&S, I was going to use a BMW 60mm TB where the S&S was. Strange with the Microsquirt - haven't heard of many reliability issues with them - was it DIY build or bought in? Big shame as its a promising looking project!

Not sure if that's aimed in any particular direction ? But pretty sure we've all ridden of with the stand down once or twice and / or tried to start in gear?

Pssst - the oil drains are at the front of the engine! As Ben Slabby says but that is providing you havens got all the sidestand / clutch switch bollux still in circuit as this one runs through them to varying degrees to 'save you from yourself' if your stupid or forgetful!

Those would work and may give a little boost whilst retaining the bottom end but if you want more - you need bigger - simple physics! 36 CV's is usual choice but good used sets are getting thin on the ground - RS36 flatslides would be about ultimate for daily driver / stump puller! Keep the stock carbs (if tin tops) for the turbo!

F**kin' hell Phil - try and at least give us a clue - what Bike, engine, colour of wire? We're not telepathic!

Same train of thought I was thinking! I like the Bosch IAT sensor with a cage around the sensor thermistor - fast reacting unlike the brass encapsulated types which are better for water or oil temps. Plus increased intake air temps will increase overall engine temps to a greater or lesser degree!

Two inlet cams in Busa motors used to be a hop up tip back in the day - so why not give it a go, just make sure you have decent piston - valve clearance (1.0mm) if pulling big revs!

You did all that for 3hp more than this - 1186cc, std M head and cams, CV carbs and a DIY 4-2-1 pipe.