Gixer1460

Well if going 'all out', it's unlikely you'll be stuffing big cams in there without head, valve, spring and seal work. Max lift, from memory, before you get spring issues is 0.370" so after that the seats and retainers need adjustment also the guide needs recessing to allow higher lift without touching. I don't think you'll get a 'long term reliable GSXR type engine with lifts approaching and over 0.500"

Hardly mounting the frame off the engine rather than using the engine to provide additional stiffness. Still can't fathom why you'd want to mount a damper to the engine? If you haven't got a frame to mount a 'normal' damper why not engineer a mini damper off the headstock to the top yoke or a Scott damper on the yoke to the spindle?

You disable the pump as it clouds what the main is actually doing - once the MJ is correct you re-enable the pump. A wideband is a really useful accessory and can help avoiding a dyno. A workshop lambda won't really help as the motor can't be run under load like on the road or on a dyno.

Made no discernable difference on mine - tried on dyno back to back. Prefer to use a programmable Dyna to put the advance where it does good and take it away where it doesn't. 7 map points isn't great but better than none.

Your lucky it didn't try earthing through the clutch / throttle / choke cables cos they proper glow red with a couple of hundred amps through them!

Dot head will work ok with std bore but too high CR with a 1216 kit. Why not find a std set of M cams and get them reground, My M cams for my Turbo came from Ron Kroll in the States so new billet ones are available but not common...............or swop out to a K or L head then stupid number of cam variations are available?

Those wiring connectors in particular the yellow connector! The yellow/green wire looks like its about to fall off anyway and the yellow crimp connector shouldn't be used with the ampages that a starter motor draws anyway. Proper ring terminal, crimped, soldered and heatshrink covered - safe as houses!

WTF is a k*t*n ?

Steering Damper what?.................usually attached to frame?

If its a UK spec bike the light switch should have - OFF - P and ON. P is obviously the sidelights (front and rear). Also check the ignition switch / lock - usually if bars are turned left full they can be locked without lights, if turned right full and key pushed in and turned to the right it will lock with sidelights on. My GSXR has that arrangement as did my GSX750ET so would imagine the GS would be similar?

Assuming these are COP's - they should be no more loose or sloppy fit than std regular plug leads - your solving a problem that doesn't / shouldn't exist.

Or diet, lose 10kg = save money, eat less, go faster! Honestly, losing all the extraneous crap bolted to a bike and being weight conscious with stuff you add is usually a lot cheaper than buying HP

L has screw and lock nut tappets - M has shim adjustment. Only the M and N's have the revised port shape and it's not radically different to the K or L's

Blandit ones dead easy to spot - I would suppose that the deep vee sump offset to one side would be GSXR 750 to suit stock 4-1 the central Vee would be more suited to 4-2-1 systems like on 1100F's and GSXR 1100's - not scientific but sounds logical.

Generally bugger all to fix them to and if you find somewhere, it'll probably be more delicate than the fairings so you'll save the fairing and break something more expensive / crucial! Other option - don't crash LOL!

Movement in starter clutch gear is normal - it floats until the rollers engage to lock it to the crankshaft. Can't hear rattles cos of the noisy exhaust!

If its road biased and not all top end, you are looking for torque - big bore good for that also head work as airflow and cylinder filling = torque. Personally i'd stick with RS36mm carbs and throw some Kent stage 1 cams at it and you be looking at mid 155's HP and nice torque. Forget a 6 speed - no need to keep engine boiling if you have pull! If its got a 1216 kit, it should have compression and so a DOT head will be too much. Good coils - bonus and Dyna 2000i IF you need ignition adjustment, stick coils bring nothing to the party so save money.

Well I know for a fact that a GSXR1100 K/L/M trigger wheel looks nothing like a Blandit 1200 mk1 wheel and would assume that neither will look like a 1052 wheel ! Haven't a scooby doo whether the teeth are in the correct place relative to the crankshaft - wouldn't it be easier to get a Blandit pick-up and rotor so you know it'll work? I assume you have the mk2 Ign. switch as well?

They don't need a 'special touch'! They are an engine pure and simple - what they need is someone skilled in the work, Orient Express I'd trust - they haven't won multiple racing championships by NOT knowing what works!

Aren't Orient Express based in New York state - they should be able to handle a job like that! ....... http://www.orientexpress.com/c-305-cylinder-head-porting.aspx

In that case try Sudco - they should be able to assist. Only seems to be one part / assembly across the range.

Not unusual but tricky to avoid looking like a dogs dinner! They all MUST be air tight obviously - pin prick holes can play havoc!

You'd be surprised then as one of the most powerful nitrous road bikes in the 90's was a Hippo! Was an active member on the old, old site.

Yep!

Should be 3 wires - red ...... power, white to 1&4 coil and black to 2&3 coil.... see here...... http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/DS3-1_3-2.pdf What are you using it on? As a road bike will require the GSX1000 / 1100 mechanical ATU and deep cover. Without it you'll be running fixed timing which is a bugger to start and mullers fuel consumption!