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About nlovien

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    Club Hammer
  • Birthday 02/17/1961

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    United Kingdom

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  1. nlovien

    Best Gift ever

    icing on the cake today for me reading this - yi got a good mate there, me also suspects yir also a good one
  2. nlovien

    HP injection pump killing battery

    sounds like there's a demand for a mod kit to fit a more efficient rare earth type alternator from a more modern bike also wondering if you could piggy back a 2nd alternator ? - once did this by using a housing from an engine that had an alt that wasn't direct on crank ( plenty options ) - made an adaptor plate to fit in place of sprocket cover and spun the alt. via a direct link to the front sprocket bolt - ok not much use when stationary but it did provide enough added juice when used in anger - could be using the 1st option - more modern alt would make this option better - - idea copied from some old school endurance bike set ups
  3. nlovien

    The Charging Mod Illustrated

    being a tight arsed Aberdonian things like relay's - fuse box's, etc.. - generally find lurking inside scrap cars - in addition to this charging use, use for live feed direct to coils and for headlight where a 5 pin switching unit is handy ( dip is live on ignition, high beam is switched using the high beam handlebar switch = removes need for an on/off lights switch ) basically any high load use circuit, put the live feed direct to source via relay for the cleanest supply and use the mess via the switch gear etc. as the low load signal to relay where loss's are not an issue and thinner wires can be used
  4. nlovien

    Swirl's Harris

    when working with a mag 3 frame - quite surprised at the lack of symmetry and also the quality of the tube bends - obvious bending die marks - tube ovaling etc.. - cutting into some of the bronze welded joints - you can find in some patches pretty significant gapping between parent parts in sections - great thing was - given quite severe tube damage - post crash - when jigged - the steering head was spot on perpendicular to the swing arm axle - the bit that counts - it was though 2mm off centre if you were to presume the frame was supposed to be centered between the inside faces for the swing arm pivot - wrong presumption It is valuable info for any home builder - getting things right is always right but it shows that you can have some flexibility in how you get there I had a P&M frame stripped at the same time - now thats different, no die marks, ovaling and very much closer symmetry - I didn't open up any of the welds but I'd suspect they are as tight as a nuns stockings - overall workmanship here is in a different league
  5. nlovien

    petrol in my oil

    they are a pain to fit - can cause supply issues - look nasty and are not needed if the tank side is clean and you have reasonable in tank filter screens - hmm what does that sound like ? - an elastoplast fix going to wise up and take a better approach - forsure use them during initial build - sort out - its a right pain chasing a flooding carb - will circulate a good few tanks worth through em - then remove
  6. nlovien

    petrol in my oil

    if i'm fitting inline filters - I use x 2 - ref: to reduce flow restriction apart from oil contamination - important to prevent carb leakage because this can lead to a bent rod ( hydraulic lock when turning over ) - if I spot this - 1st turn the engine over slowly by hand - or take the plugs out
  7. nlovien

    Doubts about GSX 1100 models

    good on yi another one hopefully about to be resurrected. We all have different approaches to how we 1st tackle such purchases - opposite sides of the scale are 1) take a punt - charge up battery, put some oil n fuel in it - see if it runs and work around the gremlins as they appear ( not my prefered method with a bike you don't know the history and has been left sitting for a few yrs - the satisfaction of actually breathing any life into it is often lost with the continual niggles and maybe cause for accelerated wear / damage ) 2) presume the usual niggles ( many already suggested ) - don't go mad and try and get it to run - off with the cam cover carbs and plugs - get it all nicely lubed up inc. a wetting down the bores - turn over by hand to get a feel that nothing nippy is occurring - then take each main part, one at a time - carbs / wiring / detailed engine service / steering head wheels and swing arm bearing inspection - brake strip and re seal - - etc.. etc... a lot of work but worth it in the long run and can often be less work versus the hassle of quick fix gremlins - -and in this process you may uncover a big one ( damaged bore, rockers etc.. ) that will focus your direction before rather than after you invest a lot of time and effort only downside to option 2 is project creep - as you fix / improve each part, the level of fix desired goes up - often resulting in upgrading / parts change - - -- how often do we end up doing this anyway ? - fix the std front end and brakes - then just as yir doing the final brake bleed - och you decide bugger it, fit a different front end - ok now needs the matching rear wheel = diffrent swing arm and on - and on - 5yrs later you may get bike of month
  8. nlovien

    How important is the petrol overflow?

    sounds like a fair bit of work going on to the tank - ok so fit a raised filler cap - - sledge hammer to a nut fix
  9. nlovien

    Slabby VM29 Flatslide Carbs

    recently did this to a set of RS38's which had a fair bit of wiggle on the slide lift shaft - had a random tendency to hang when closing - these have x 2 needle bearings and x 6 felt washers - pop out the felt washers and replace with 14mm x 10mm self lub plastic bush's = no more wiggle and "garage" testing - they now settle to idle quickly - no sign of the random hanging - a bit slower to self close - probably a bit more friction on the shaft as its now got a tighter clearance across all four - ok so increase return spring pre load do I think this neat cheap tweak works - yip for me
  10. nlovien

    Swirl's Harris

    for me - pic looks like the the engine is sitting high at the back - I generally aim for the sprocket c/l +/- 5 to 10mm below the line between rear sindle and swing arm pivot - when the arm is raked maybe 10 to 15 deg reason ? - copying - seems to be the ballpark and hence can only presume works ref: squat - also - imagine the suspension bottomed out - will the lower chain run clear the swing arm ?
  11. nlovien

    CV Carb Mod washers £20 / set

    i'm up for a set of 4 but i've got one niggle to clear in mi head - this holds the needle firmly and it then locates such that the needle can't spin ( original issue I believe ) - my niggle is, does there remain enough wiggle room to enable the needle to effectively float into the emulsion tube - or is the needle so firmly located that there is no wiggle room i.e. - if the needle is just a tad off centre relative to the emulsion tube it will then be cocked to one side - possibly even forced to wear on that side ?? I'm sure the answer is - it has wiggle and this is not an issue - its been a tried n tested fix for a while etc.. - would just like to nail this one though thanks
  12. nlovien

    BST 38's

    are the worn needles alloy ? - if so then likely dynojet also - and if so yir quids in - send them back to dynojet and they will replace free of charge - recently done this with a set of 38's
  13. nlovien

    Harris magnum 2 engine position.

    one thing I found with the gsxr motor was the loose fit of mi bolts through the cases so I reemed out the mounts and machined up inserts to get a nice snug fit - ok a bit pedantic but mi take is - where you can - these little tweaks can all add up - my learning example is a P&M frame - when you see the level of detail they go to to achieving a really snug engine to frame fit plenty scope to playing with that rear top mount via doglegging the spacers - i'd think of - the short LH side a solid bush with x 2 off centre threads and the longer RH side = weld the bolt off centre and thread the otherside - you assembly these spacers to the engine 1st then align with the frame - just an example
  14. nlovien

    non starter

  15. nlovien

    non starter

    obviously we don't know just how far the level of initial cleaning ref: the flow ports and jets was - - i'm suspecting you are maybe chasing your tail around the same issue - maybe getting partial success - noted you had observed blocked emulsion tube holes - for me that's a good sign you had more crude in more delicate places yet to be sorted I don't bother with all this vapour blasting / ultrasonic cleaning stuff - sure makes things shiny but often doesn't get to the important bits - you can get the primary jet circuits clean and check they are flowing by stripping out the parts - a can of carb clean and by blocking off the various ports by finger - use an airline to confirm each port is clear - a few pointers 1) the idle air jets in the carb inlet - these can be a bugger to get out - the brass is soft and easy to damage - rather than risk this ( if they don't come out easy) then leave these in when cleaning 2) the 3 holes you see inside the carb outlet - confirm you can see daylight through them - -using the one carb that doesn't have adjustment as your base - use the throttle cam adjuster to bring the thorttle plate down to these holes - aim for the plate to divide one by half then balance each other carb to this - you'll be very close to carb balance with this as a starter 3) when you remove the idle screw - check their tips are still there and make sure you get the wee o-ring out - and check to see if a previous owner didn't - then refitted this screw jamming into the lost o-ring and blocking the idle circiut 4) and a common one that I didn't see mentioned ( maybe you have already checked ) - take a really good look at the top of the main needles and the exit of the emulsion tubes for any signs of wear / errosion see them granny magnifying lenses commonly advertised in them mags that start appearing in the post around this time of yr - the ones yi hang around yir neck ? - bloomin good for this sort of thing - even better is an e-bay special cheap pair of loupes - great for this sort of thing