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About nlovien

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    Club Hammer
  • Birthday 02/17/1961

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    United Kingdom

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  1. nlovien

    Katana Anti-Dive

    reason why I don't like anti dive ? dam't near shat myself the 1st time I tried getting into a corner whilst hard on the brakes - can really negatively affect how the bike wants to turn in - would like to think any worthwhile article on this covers this inherent trait of this device - for me ? thing of the past - at best an elastoplast for other issues, more likely a failed marketing ploy in an attempt to bring a forgotten racing thing into mainstream
  2. nlovien

    Seat pan options

    staples or alloy rivets work fine along with an impact adhesive - also consider a layer of plastic ( bin bag etc..) between the seat foam and the outer material - helps reduce the seat becoming a sponge given the seat material typically used is porous
  3. nlovien

    Seat pan options

    to go onto that i'd take a fibreglass mold of the seat base to use as the base for the seat pad - if you've got room adding a separate back pad place cling film over the seat - slap on a coat of resin + a few layers of fibreglass and hayho - 30 minutes later there's the perfect shape once you've got this base cover it in clingfilm and spray expanding foam onto it so you can easily make a dummy shape of how you want the seat filler to be if you want more of a raised / curved seat versus a flat one I find it better to add this shape via more fibreglass versus bulking out the seat filler
  4. nlovien

    K&N filters for flatslides

    I suspect part of the reason the short filters with back plates cause issues is because the back plate is too close to the carb - you might try fitting a venturi extension then the K&N's - i.e. there could be a bit of early mid range tuning benifit to keeping these type of filters but at a longer length from the carb
  5. nlovien

    Gs1100 moded time capsule

    thats a few pretty unobtainium parts on that bike check the float on the front disc bobbins that will give you an idea of just how much miles its done ( i.e. if they are tight then not a lot ) - given the previous owner has fitted this level of noticeable parts - any suggestion that the engine / carbs / igntion has been worked on ? - your on your way to a classic race bike there be there when the guy removes the tyres - take the opportunity to inspect the mag wheel rim of any major pitting - just in case the outside is a tidy up and respray job hiding what maybe previously corroded wheels and forsure use them on the road, just remember to stop and inspect if you do hit a pot hole etc.. - i've split two of them on the road, they are fine but they are not as forgiving as road alloy ones
  6. nlovien

    Rs38 flat sides vs standard 1200 mk1 carbs

    ref: carb size - had this discussion with racers / tuners - new school and old school and i'm dam't if I can nail down an agreed consensus of opinion based on result - summary is - especially as you've gone to effort of porting and cams - you'll likely be chasing rpm = new school response - go as big as you dare ( use your inlet port entry size as a guide ) old school will tell you go the opposite = as small as you only need to go, it will be more efficient at part throttle, easier to tune ( or read as more forgiving if they are not right on tune ) - ok so no answer for you my own experience ( was old school) is modern flatslide smoothbores are mucho better at partial fueling these days - i.e. go big CV versus directlift smooth bore - if its performance then 100% the smoothbore pumper - maybe not if you only look at the top HP but the initial punch / drive / throttle response - no competition ( and you can gain on mpg as an added bonus ) if its good performance with a smoother lazier pick up, lighter throttle etc.. i.e. the stuff that makes mile crunching on the road more pleasant = go CV
  7. nlovien

    Idiots guide to turbos

    the other bit - not often discussed but important is the turbo body size ( the throat ) - one to watch out for when you go looking - bigger CC engines may have the same compressor / turbine wheels but have a bigger throat ( housing ) - go small on this and you'll get improved early spool, go too small and you'll choke top end, conversely go too big and you'll be waiting all day for spool up = previous ref: to +/- 2litre car engine a small throat with a bit of porting to max the flow to the waste gate is a good balance i.e. so you can bleed past the turbine as the rpm rises to reduce choking = this leads to another tuning tweak = how and where you introduce the WG flow into the ex pipe downstream of the turbine exit - get this wrong and the two flows clash causing back pressure, get it right and the WG flow can help scavenge ( lower the turbine downstream exit pressure )
  8. nlovien

    Idiots guide to turbos

    from my exploits with tuning old saabs = two routes 1) sledge hammer approach - boost is king = big bang, good for wahoo effect in a straight line - pain in the arse to manage otherwise and typically loses much bang with heat build after a few slugs 2) jeweler's screw driver approach - use as little boost as possible and tune the cams / ignition timing / fuel injection to suite = a smoother more turbine effect that will deliver with controllable demand all day long - get this right and you can have more top end HP with less psi ( ref reading a turbo chart - look to the RH side - you can see how once you get to the limits more boost doesn't provide more HP so it just spins the compressor faster creating heat ) - - other note is cam timing can make a noticeable effect on the initial rpm you get usable boost at a price - time for early boost = loose top end // time for top end and you induce more lag experience with the saab turbo's the Garrett GT25 will marginally beat the Mitsubishi TD04 on early spool, the TD04 will marginally beat the GT25 on top end - std the GT will see about 280hp, the TD04 about 300 ( note you can find the turbo specs for these cars via SAAB forums etc.. but look for the 9000 tdo4 versus the 9-5 it has a larger turbine if you want to max these out, fit a gt28 compressor to the TDo4 - it works much better than the mitsubishi 19T upgrade - this is what the left hand side of the graph shows if you compare a gt28 to a 19T, the garrett compressor delivers as it spools up, the 19T struggles until its up to speed - with the GT28 compressor on a SAAB td04 + cam timing shift bias to top end I got over 360HP (1.3bar boost ) overall = for the older car turbo's - from my experience, the Garrett GT25 is a very good all rounder with early spool, easy to tune and forgiving when its running outside optimum - the TD04 will give you a bit more, if you can use it but it takes a bit more work to find it and its more focussed ref rpm range
  9. nlovien

    1 cylinder not working

    take a look for signs of oil - maybe a leaking valve seal / worn guide causing contamination signs of the piston crown being obviously muckier / wetter than the rest - crud build up at the bottom of the inlet valve etc..
  10. nlovien

    Gsx1100 upgrade

    as yir asking - not so sure myself, at risk of it looking like a parts bin special with too many bits obviously from trade mark bikes - getting them to work together will be a challenge great project - liking the approach , although a well tried and tested combo - my thoughts would be more along the lines of an Eddie Lawson / Wes Cooley style cockpit -
  11. nlovien


    linseed oil etc.. works fine, the inhibitors are good - ref: acf50 - some of them tend to stain the metal with a phosphate coating - can look a bit yeucky hence using just an oil - the chromoly will pit rust just from the smell of a wet fart
  12. nlovien

    1216 bandit with modded airbox

    on the point of the CV carb drinking petrol versus the direct lift - yet HP figures +/- same HP figures +/- same suggest at WOT either carb is being efficient in supplying what's needed for the given engine tune = important on a race engine that will spend time at WOT, not so important on a road based engine which spends not a lot of time at WOT, yet we often calibrate our carbs to the part that we rarely use the bit from closed to WOT is where the road engine lives - direct lift carb we tune each primary fueling circuit with a direct relation to throttle position - on the CV its a bit of unknown as to what circuit is actually providing the juice at any given engine load other than WOT - if your drinking a load more fuel then - for me - it suggests your wetting out - possibly because the vacuum control of the slide lift is now out of sync with the engine demand ( and adding back the airbox can help to bring this back into sync ) - but the area that needs focus is the rate of slide lift via return spring and slide lift holes trying to picture this direct lift - easy you can see the slide lifting in direct relation to demand - fuel from here - now fuel from there - thank you CV - I can picture, large throttle opening followed by the slide going through a fluctuating cycle from closed to full open until it finds the balance and whilst doing this its slugging fuel into the venturi versus accurately metering it - so maybe slow the slide lift response down - i.e. damp down the fluctuation - but over do it and it will not lift quick enough, or hold open at WOT - -- basically consider when tuning CV carbs that the slide lift response is as important ( maybe more so ) as the jetting - not something you consider with a direct lift, and hayho - any CV carb tuning kit i've seen does indeed include mod's for the slide lift - not saying the kits get it right though! problem is - so where do you go for a range of carb slide springs ? - ok so focus on the lift holes
  13. nlovien

    Chipped and cracked magneto, how screwed am I?

    not heard of much these days ref: self exiting generator parts - but given the damage, the balance - i'd be avoiding the possibility of these things breaking up at 9K rpm
  14. nlovien

    Gia 1216

    ok - now i'm seeing more bits, that's more like it - blingtastic to infinity - and beyond
  15. nlovien

    Gia 1216

    not enough though, this is beyond bling