johnr

ah well. worth a guess.

didnt the gsxr1100 slabby have a very similar spoke pattern to the efe but an inch wider rim? might that be an option to get a wider tyre but similar look onto the bike?

is it on every cylinder?

play might be the ally basket onto the steel primary drive gear which does slightly wear over time you used to be able to buy a kit to remove the rivets and transmission shock absorber springs and replace with new ones to remove the slop, but tbh, pretty much all gs/gsx clutches rattle at some time or other.

Not without mods, efe crankcase mouths are bigger than the 1075 motors, clutch, crank, rods, pistons, starter clutch etc etc all different

yeah, them 70's Gurls blouse cv carbs were a fucking nightmare to set up in the day and havent improved with age. horrible things.

i thought the bar was upstairs on the gallery.

i remember you posting about it back then and there were quite a few 'itll never last' posts!

almost. the 1100 with the roller crank had its oil pressure switch on the top of the crankcase behind cylinder 4, the 750 has its oil pressure switch on the right side of the engine under the ignition cover, so the cables are slightly longer and some 750's had an oil temp sensor, otherwise theyre the same. all the gs1000 and 1075 gsx motor looms are pretty similar until you get to the clocks wiring connections. remember the kat has an electronic tacho where the et had a mechanical tacho drive. but nothing is insurmountable so get the closest you can find and make it work.

yes, the o rings on the head bolts can perish and oil will seep past them and down the studs and give the impression of a head gasket leak. you need to take off the rocker cover and you can do them with the head on if youre careful and do them one at a time. put a tiny smear of welseal on the o ring round the nut just so it doesnt tear as you tighten it down. its a common issue on the gsx motor.

uk katana club is hosting the 10th eurokat rally in august, 19-22nd this year at ripon rugby club in north yorkshire. £20 a ticket, ill get more details up when i can.

por15 is silver and resistant to acetone, if acetone removes it and the flakes coming out are a browny yellow opaque colour, its almost certainly petseal, ive had to remove petseal liners that had been in decades but were destroyed by ethanol in petrol, i replaced them all with por15 and never had it fail yet.

looks like a racing wet tyre.

shell cranks on these 750s so dont run short of oil. although that would give the excuse to fit an 1100 motor....

guy in the kat club fitted a 600 bandit motor into his mrs's 550 kat, looks like it was supposed to be in there. plenty of 600 motors about for next to nothing.

regarding cooling, is there any benefit to using one of the modern waterless coolants that seem to be gaining in popularity in the classic vehicle world because being water free, you cant boil it off no matter how hot it gets. no idea if anybody has tried them yet?

you answered my question that id not asked! im looking for a cover for a gsxr11 motor with cable clutch and electronic speedo sensor! thanks!

when you say the adv ret weights are moving, does the advance retard unit rotate by a few degrees when you try to twist it and in doing so pop the bobweights out? it should all move freely with no stiction or seizure. if your ignition isnt advancing and retarding correctly, you can fit a million sets of carbs and it still wont run.

try to find a set of kat 400 rims, much lighter than the stock snowflake rims, but the same snowflake pattern so almost indistinguishable from stock (tho 18 inch front not 19 inch) but as well as being tubeless, theyre loads wider so can take wider tyres and the front can carry much bigger disks so youve still got the stock look, bot everything is improved!

sorry, 1127, my mind was obviously not entirely engaged when i typed that. ihave a set somewhere which is essentially a 6 speed 750 gearbox and selectors that was fitted in a slingshot 1100 motor. never fitted it myself so i have no idea if its any good.

cant you fit the 6 speed box from one of the 750's into the 1135 cases?

just out of interest, if its a 750 does it still run on points or is it a cdi model? and in either case, have you checked the automatic advance retard unit on the ignition, if the unit has corrosion or the bobweights are seized it could be stuck in either full advance or full retard, and if its points, then you need to make sure the points are clean and gapped and the condensors are new. worth going through the obvious basics first, before diving into the carbs. if it was a bit rough before and now its not playing ball it could be something as simple as the ignition timing being off.

im at stafford with the thumper club (single cylinder guys) im taking my matchless this year, we are on the top balcony too, bottom left corner of that plan. if youve never been before, you access the upstairs balcony with your bike via the ramp on the outside shown at the bottom of the right side of that plan.i'll pop over and say hi.

if youve not actually ridden it on the road, how do you know its lean? revving it up in the garage on the stand isnt putting it under any load. if iy runs, take it up the bypass with fresh plugs in and do a plug chop.

the information is on this site, use the search feature, you dont need spoon feeding, just look for it, its here.