johnr

750 had higher oil pressure because it had a shell crank so the pump was pushing the oil against something trying to squeeze it in between those plain bearings. 1100 roller crank just needed the oil to be there in order to keep its balls wet......

if the wires have melted, how do you know the alternator has failed? surely its more likely that the connections were corroded or dirty causing them to overheat cos of the resistance?

+1 for lucky7's work, but busa ash had some done recently in stockport that were top class too.

theres vids on youtube on how to do it, principle tip is whatever you do, DONT boil it up in the house unless you want to encourage the wrath of the other residents of your house. its a bit fragrant, although it will clear your sinus's........

nobody, anywhere, ever, complained that an oilcooled suzuki engine was deficient in oil flow, oil pressure or lubrication.

have you considered softening them with the old wintergreen oil trick?

Might be a bit late to mention it, but remember there are two different cam cover gaskets, 20 bolt and 24 bolt. Plus, are you sure your oil leak isn't failed o rings on the centre cylinder head bolts?

i think its brass, itll polish to a mirror finish if thats your bag!

but also check that the auto advance/retard isnt sticking.

im not sure how the rim width would affect anything regarding calipers and disks. if the hub is stock gs then the spokes are in the right place, and the spokes entering the rim are along the centre line of the rim so it doesnt matter how wide the rim is regarding the calipers or disks,

Wrap it in bubble wrap with a length of galvanised garden chain inside it' then bungee it to a cement mixer and just leave it running for 24hrs' reverse the direction every couple of hours.

Don't say I didn't warn you. The spoon trick don't help you with kat clocks.

ok guys im normally aircooled but my kat has a gsxr1100k motor in it, its a shim head on the motor and tbh it runs great, but in the shed ive found a dot head from a gsxr750, now there arent any cams in it and im in no rush to take it to bits, BUT, when i do get round to doing it, what cams are best to use in it on the 1100 bottom end. there arent any cams with it so its not like ive got anything to start off with. so, im assuming i will need to retain the cam sprockets i have so i can use the camchain in the motor but the dot head is on tappets, so what stock suzuki cams will be the best choice for me to look out for? motor is stock bar a barnet clutch diaphragm and it runs rs38 mikunis. ive tried searching the tech pages but there are so many mentions of dot heads its like reading war and peace.

be super careful removing the needles. theres a tiny spindle in them that will break off if youre too firm. best bet is cardboard cornflake box sides with slots in them slid over the face under the needles to protect the face. then gently cut round the plastic centre of the needle with a dremmel till you expose the brass ferrule up the middle.

if tape doesnt work, cut a shim from a beer can and wrap it round the bar under the switches.

top end off the 750 will also drop onto the 600 bottom end if you need to keep the engine number you have....

find someone whos put an 1100 motor in their 750, buy their 750 motor and put that in your 600....

these are on eblag listed as jr2. eblag number 254105191580

let me read that again......... . . . . . no....... let me try again......... . . nope, so youre saying........ . . . . erm, so let me......... . . . i mean...... . . . . . what?

if youre using the take off points on the front of the cases, you need to restrict the oil flow under the oil filter cover, you can either use a plug that blocks off the oilway and forces the oil round the cooler (though youll need to put a small hole up the middle, aprox 2mm as a bypass in case of the filter being clogged) or else use an efe filter cover that has the restrictor built into it.

this, do this!!!!

thats why i wondered about suzukis lazyness. as theyve got form in simply using stuff from the parts bin on different models, surely they didnt use this servo on only one year of a pretty niche model for a single year. im guessing that they fitted it to the kat fe because they had it for something else. its just a case of finding what that something else actually was!

the very last model of kat (iirc the millenium edition although the fe may have had them too) had an electric servo assisted clutch under the tank. ive actually seen this in operation. clutch is just as heavy as the stock clutch with the ignition off, but turn the ignition on and the clutch feels like the cable has snapped, its super super light. so there is a solution. its just a question of whether they used the electric servo on anything else.

then get a new cable made. theres plenty of firms that can make you up a cable to your own requirements.

if it works, but you dont like the look, why not fit it to the other end of the cable where it mounts on top of the motor?