johnr

gsx550 carbs are a pair of twin chokes, theyre a horrorshow, fit anything else but them......

850's are still about for reasonable money. i bought a 26 thousand mile gs850 motor just before xmas for 150 quid, they suffer from not being a gs1000 so values are low.

Check the clutch nut is tight!

aye, pod filters look great, but tbh that mr suzuki san must know something about making motorbikes, some of them even work in the rain.....

but as the fe kat is a bit of a niche machine, i guess that he would know what he had.

go onto alphasports and check part numbers on the microfiche to see if theey are all the same part. i know the 750 had different gearing to spin the pump slightly faster due to the 750 engines shell crank, so its possible that it has the same pump as the 1100.

swap the leads over between the coils, if the same coil refuses to spark, its the coil, if the failure to spark moves to the other coil its the pickups. if its the gs650 motor then it should be twin pickups with mechanical adv ret, they only went to single pickup when they moved to the efe 16v motors with electronic advance and retard didnt they? certainly the 650 gs motors in my garage have the same ignition setup as all the gs 8v range and the early 16v kat/et gsx motors.

were you scrupulously clean when you assembled it, it only takes a speck of dust under a shim to hold it up off its seating and assuming eveything is ok, its always good to spin the engine over a few times with a spanner on th crank before measuring the valve shim gaps just in case one of thee buckets hasnt seated right.

kat was designed by target design as a long distance sports tourer. targets previous designs were for bmw, r100rs/rt, r90s, big fast long distance bruisers for crossing continents, the kat was designed to be the same. all clocks and user comfort, the kat got the accessory switches so owners could fir driving lights, heated grips or even heated clothing, pre sat nav or mobile phone days, so these were simple accessory switches to offer options to owners.

its in a queue behind 5 other bikes, all katanas....

it was done by lucky7 for practical sportsbike mags kat build. these are the pics of the bracing done to the frame for the build, in fact, these are pics of the frame i have in my shed, the other was used in the mag. it will get built one day, but collecting kat 1000 stuff and yoshi bits is an expensive persuit.

although the mk2 impulse is one of the prettyest jap home market 400's out there. like a mini gsx1100et.

i think youre thinking of the abomination that is the mark1 impulse 400.

ive a kat frame in the shed that was braced for a build intended for one of the monthly bike rags, they built two frames and this was the one they didnt use. bracing is rather nicely done although im not sure how sturdy it would be.

I know, I'm just saying that the oil drain plug isn't the only magnetic component in there. I think you'd definitely know about it if it went south!

tons of tuning stuff about for the dr650, inc big bores upto 790cc! cams carbs ignitions valves, all manner of stuff.

have you checked that the auto advance retard bobweights on the ignition rotor are moving freely? it may be seized, not uncommon on an engine with mechanical advance and retard.

well, that and the entire alternator rotor....

you can take feeds to the cooler from either the bolts either side of the oil filter covr, or else from the oil pressure switch takeoff behind the number 4 cylinder on the right side of the engine. if you use the oil filter cover bolts, you need a way to force the oil to go up to the cooler or else it will just short circuit round inside the filter. there are two ways to do this. either use an efe (1135) filter cover which has a restrictor on the inside that prevents the oil from going straight through the filter and skip the cooler, this has a small gap in the casting to allow some oil flow in case the filter gets clogged. alternatively, some aftermarkeet cooler kits came with a small alloy plug that went into the oilway under the filter cover that has a round hole to accept it, the blanking plug again has a small hole through the middle to allow oil to pass if the filter gets blocked. this plug is designed to be used with a standard gsx11(1075cc) oil filter cover. you need one or the other, easiest is to use the efe cover cos its simpler way.

if the slave cylinder seal is goosed, its as likely to pull air in as it is to push fluid out, so you could sit all day bleeding it and never get it clear.

ok, quick history lesson, back in the mist of time, suzuki in their infinite wisdom decided that having all three phases of the alternator charging the battery was too much, better idea, they thought to use two phases direct to reg rec, and the third phase should go through the headlight switch so that when you put the lights on, it got a boost. without going into too much detail, its a terrible idea! rewire all three ouputs from the alternator to the three identical coloured inputs on your reg rec, and just tape up thee wires that go to the headlight switch.

long shot, but if its a 750 engine, make sure that someone hasnt robbed the oil pump gears to fit to an 1100!. theyre behind the clutch basket.

mitsubishi shogun needles are the same shape and pattern as the stock ones, but a bit longer so need trimming down a touch.

theyre early gs1000 wheels, only the gs1000 and a very few gt750's had the spoked rear wheel with a disk brake, plenty of other suzukis from the gs range and gt range of the time had the spoked disk brake fronts, but that rear hub is what youre paying for when you buy a set of these wheels, 90% of the value is in that hub.

what does for the original needles is ultraviolet degradation, the uv in sunlight attacks the plastic and the top side facing the light shrinks, bending the needle upwards, eventually its brittle enough to crack and the needle bit floats about in the bottom of the case till you sort it or else it slips inside the works and disappears.