johnr

although by the time youve bought a kit, had the barrels bored, bought a gasket kit and rebuilt it. you will have spent enough money to buy a stock 1100 motor to put in it.

what oil are you using? mine flickered when i used modern fully synth but when i went back to semi synth or just mineral oil it was fine.

Don't bother. No chromer worth his salt will touch second hand exhausts cos they'll contaminate his baths. If you e found someone who will tackle rusty second hand motorcycle pipes, then he's probably not likely to do a good job.

Nah, iridium on anything other than a modern hi tech bike are just snake oil. Everybody telling you they're great is likely to be selling you them too.

all the 1135 ef/efe cranks were welded but also came with 20mm small ends on the rods. 1075 motors were 18mm small ends. sz kats didnt have welded cranks, sd kats did. but before you start going down the welding route, kat 1000 had much stronger rods and if youre planning on long term use it might be worth investing in the stronger rods whilst youre at this stage as a good foundation for future upgrades. and whilst its apart, think about a straight cut primary drive as well, if youre investing time and cash in the motor, give it a good foundation.

you need to make a sub loom for the ignition. your cdi box is wired to the coils, the pickups and the kill switch, all the m unit will do is provide the switched live for this sub loom.

my response was to the guy who said the bandit arm would fit without modifying the frame.

bandit is monoshock, ez is twin shock. you might get the swingarm in, but youve got to fit suspension to it.

measure the ring gaps in the bores before buying new rings. if yours are within spec, it seems pointless to replace them.

speak to some of the german guys. cos of german TUV rules any mods need to be revesible and not involve any modification of the frame, many of the german kat club guys have fitted monoshocks that are entirely bolt on modifications, so they can be removed and refitted without cutting the frame. theyll be the guys to ask about what swingarm and suspension mods to make without altering the chassis.

I think abuso valves are sold on Eblag in 1mm oversized.

yep, perfectly acceptable to use a rivetted link. have you got valves?

on some gs motors you can remove the flywheel by using the swingarm spindle, you unfasten the bolt into the end of the crank, screw the spindle in to the flywheel till it touches the end of the crank, tighten it as much as you can, then belt it on the end with a hammer and the flywheel will pop off. no, i didnt believe that too till i did it! not on the gsx motor though, sadly.

1990's gsx400s katana, the one that actually looks like a katana!

look for the back wheel from a 400 katana. theyre the same snowflake pattern on the spokes, but are much wider than stock, still 17 inch but tubeless, lighterthan stock and absolutely identical in style to stock. now you may need to mess with bearings spacers etc, but once its done, youll never tell that its not stock aside from the wider tyre.

gs125 switches are availavle new for very little money and they have similar wiring connections, you might have to jiggle the wiring round but theyre close enough for it to be a simple job.

mosfet reg rec .

theres a firm on eblag called cruzinimage selling a full set of rings (all rings for all four pistons) for an 80-83 gsx1100 motor for £45 plus postage of about 20 quid. i think wraith had a set of their overbored 1085 pistons in his gs1000 motor and had no problems with them. eblag number 131824451693

also, i seem to remember, from back in the day when we all ran points on stuff, ignition coils for points had different resistance tom ignition coils for cdi. youve checked the obvious like the auto adv ret hasnt stuck?

its cos two cylinders are trying to carry the other two. pull out all 4 plugs, that way when you spin it over youre not fighting compression and you can see whats sparking and whats not. it might be something daft like a broken wire or bad earth.

dont try to run it. get the plugs out and see if it sparks on all four when its turning over. if its 2+3 then they share a coil, so it would be buzzy going home cos it was carrying two dead cylinders. id start with electrics first cos of the fact that two cylinders on the same coil have gone off.

gs 8v motors (including the 550 and 650 kat) use a special tool to compress the bucket and allow the shim to be flicked out or pulled off with a magnet.

i think you need to forget about the oil in the big gsx being pumped at any significant pressure, youll do well to see 15psi, swapping the pump gear ups the volume that it flows, but its not under any real presure.

check the gsxr charging mod post stickied at the page top. worth doing whilst youre in there!

just to throw in my two pennorth. you have a 750 motor, price up pistons, price up the cost of boring your block to suit. then price up the cost of a second hand gsx1100 motor. the 1100 motor will give you more power than the bored 750 motor plus the possibility of further tuning.