Metlhd

Duplicolor TB102 is a commonly used "spray-bomb" and I have personally used. Good match and easy to use, just a THOROUGH cleaning and several lights coats. Bear in mind, most aerosols are NOT Fuel resistant. Just saw this posted on the 1st Gen F.B. page. Looks like an exact match but again, an aerosol so I doubt it's fuel/chem resistant. https://www.ralaerosols.com/product/ral/aerosols/ral-7021-spray-paint-can/

Much appreciated considering your taste in retro style

After a Looooong summer, the 2.0 re-work is finally done (are we ever REALLY done?) Unfortunately was not able to finish in time for the Road America AHRMA event as the motor finally roared to life 12 hrs before open practice. The weekend wasn't a total loss as we did bring it for the Rockerbox Vintage bike show and netted Best-in Show. After many missed deadlines, finally got it on track Monday for the shakedown. Bit of tweaking to do over the winter but overall thrilled with the results. Changes for this year included a complete rebuild on a 92 750 motor with overbore, adjustable 1100 cams, extensive Head work, stiffer valve springs, Barnett Clutch springs, Dyna 2000 and mini coils tied in with a Dynojet quick-shift, Total loss ignition, custom race harness with quick change Lithium Batteries, Mikuni RS38 flatslides with an Under-braced Swingarm and Yosh replica catch-can tossed in for good measure. Pretty happy with the results so far tickling 121 rwhp. Combined with shedding over 25lbs, this thing should surprise some folks next year Special thanks to Jason Farrell of Farrell Performance for all his help (and patience). Frank Zlamal, Kelly Roberts (and everyone here) for sharing their priceless experience. Craig Grant of Pingel Enterprise for the smokin deals on hardware and Jason Dunne Fiberman for the trick Carb Covers. Enjoy

Been using Lithium IRON (or LiFePO4) in all my bikes. These are more stable than Lithium Ion. Have a 240cca Deltran in my Slabby. Smaller and MUCH lighter than standard tech.

Installed a Deltran (Battery Tender) 240 cca Lithium battery in my 86 Slabby. HUGE weight savings and much smaller. Run Lithium in all my bikes.

Head cooler is certainly on the list. I've read about the 815 conversions using slingshot heads, jugs and spacer but wrist pin/piston conversion seems a bit more involved.

Wouldn't the DOT head fit 88 and 89?

I heat ya about cams. I guess what I'm trying to figure out is: A), The best head platform to start with (90,92,DOT?) B) how to distinguish what pcs I'm currently dealing with (markings?) As for carbs, I currently have OE BST (31?) on my 86 and a set of BST34's in a box. Starting to think neither will be sufficient seeing the 92 came with 38's in US trim and 40's in the UK. Looks like I can get NEW RS flatslides (38 or 40) with Velocity Stacks & filters for $800. That may be the rout I go considering the cost of a good Used CV and the inevitable rebuild but I figured that may be worthy of a separate topic.

Oilyspanner, thanks for all that. And yes this is for a 750 race motor I'm building. Do you have any idea how to confirm what Cams I have, as in markings? Considering the age of these, you never know what may have been swapped out?

Thanks, that is definitely a good read. One of my concerns is due to the age, a lot of these bikes are not stock (as in some of these swaps have been done). And used parts often have limited history. For example, I recently purchased a 92 motor complete. When I purchase it I asked the salvage place if they had any DOT heads. He brought one out with cams and all but it was tagged as a 91 GSXR750. Now obviously it's either tagged wrong or a swap/815 was done. But apparently the "DOT" heads were also used on KATANAS only with different cams?? I've also read 1100 cams can be used in some instances. So how are these parts distinguished, (heads/cams) between years and models? How does a guy know what he actually has? Are there markings on the castings or cams?

After endless searches on multiple forums, I still find myself confused about some of the key difference. What I'm fairly sure of: 1st gens are pretty much the same for 70mm long stroke. 2nd gen 88-89 DOT, 73mm bore, Larger valves yet smaller combustion chamber? What I am unsure of is if the DOT was used on other bikes such as TEAPOTS (notf'kingkatanas...R.T.F.R). IF so, How do I distinguish the origin of a head and or Cams? 90-92 is where I am not so clear other than it is again for a long stroke. Apparently the 90 does not use Shims which some claim is an advantage. Are there other differences in the 90, 91, 92 heads and how do I distinguish those? Some claim (including Kelly Roberts) the 92 best suited for builds? What is different on the 92 from the 91? Some claim the DOT is Head of choice while others say 90? I understand some of this is subjective and it has ALL likely been hashed and re-hashed over the years. But as I mentioned, searched till I'm blue. Perhaps there is a definitive "Head Guide" I haven't found?

Those are actually the same MK2 racing pcs. Perhaps Airtech sells them ?

WOW, More than double? Not familiar with the Race Direct product but have to wonder at 1/2 the price? I know these are worth it and don't have personal experience with $250 rearsets to compare. I know he posted on the 1st Gen facebook page a week or so ago about a "holiday" special of $425 i think...?

VERY Nice Yosh Replicas. Have a set on mine. https://www.mk2racing.com/product/mk2-1st-gen-gsxr-rearsets