Arttu

Here's what I did for my frame years ago.

I prefer push-in pneumatic fittings for these purposes. These are available with various thread and pipe sizes. 6mm pipe is good for most of the cases. Some examples here: https://www.airlines-pneumatics.co.uk/pneumatics/fittings/push-in-legris-lf3000-metric-3-16mm-od/legris-lf3000-push-in-stud-male/S060101 And a couple of these mounted on the plenum (and one on the BOV).

Homer and no class explained this pretty well. Maybe one additional factor: If there is a bend on manifold just before collector, like on typical bike case, then outer side of curve works better. Most of the flow will go on outer side.

There is plenty of variation how well the internal gates are done. If internal works in your setup, meaning holds the boost where you want, then there is no advantage with external one. Like mentioned internal gates are often a bit small and that may result boost creep at high rpm. Usually this happens especially if you try to get low boost from relatively large turbo. Quite often porting the gate is enough to solve the problem. External gate isn't a golden bullet solution to all boost control problems either. There the most critical thing is joining the wastegate connection to the exhaust manifold. If it's at wrong angle or location you may get boost creep no matter how large gate you use. Again the result depends greatly on various factors like turbo sizing and boost target. The worst example that I have seen made 1.3 bars boost even when the whole wastegate was removed

It should be good for up to 250-280hp.

Take measurements of the compressor and turbine wheels. Those could help identification and give some idea about power range. But like said it looks quite much like K04 used on VW 1.8T engines. The hints are three bolt turbine inlet flange, big outlet flange and extra mounting tab on the turbine housing.

Hmm, perhaps a Chinese copy of Borg&Warner K04?

A couple of issues with that solution: -If you connect the coils parallel their primary voltages are tied together. And when spark hits voltage on both will be limited by the coil that can break a spark first. And most likely that's the coil on exhaust stroke so then there will be less voltage available on the cylinder that actually needs it. Although I have to admit this is based on pure theory, I haven't tried how it would work in real life. This issue can be fixed by adding own transistor / MosFET for each coil. -Second issue is that these low resistance coils are designed to be driven by controlled dwell time. Like charging for 1.5ms before the spark and then resting rest of the enngine cycle. Controlled dwell limits the current to safe level and since the coils spend most of their time un-energized they don't get too hot. But wasted spark ignitors on older bikes charge the coils some fixed part of the engine revolution so the dwell time gets pretty long, especially at low revs. So there is quite high risk to fry the coils quickly even if you can modify the transistors to handle the current.

Water injection reduces intake air temp and increases knock resistance. So on boosted engine you will get more air in at the same boost and you can use more boost and ignition timing. So yes, you can make more power safely with it, on boosted engine. Naturally there are downsides as well. The stuff takes space and weights something too. But if you compare to an intercooler it's probably easier to find place for a tank and pump. Then you need to take care that you don't run out of the water. And one factor that many seem to overlook is adjusting the amount of water correctly. If you inject too much you may get lower intake temp but still less power. And naturally too little doesn't give good effect. I have seen all kind mixtures to be used. Water with methanol or ethanol, ratios anything between 0-100%. Plain water doesn't affect on fueling so you don't need to rejet or tune for it. Alcohol is fuel so more you inject it richer the engine gets. Apparently 50/50 mixture with methanol is prety optimal for maximum cooling and knock resistance. Personally I use 20% ethanol mixture since I don't want tooo much change for fueling and don't want to mess with poisonous methanol.

It's not that straightforward. The result depends on various factors like how good battery and starter you have, how much compression ratio and so on. Most likely 10mm2 will be fine if you have a fresh battery, weather is quite warm and everything else is in good condition. But if you have a bit tired battery and engine oil is stiff due to cold weather then you may not get enough juice to the starter with thin cables. One option is to use 10mm2 cable where necessary and make the rest with 16mm2. For example if you have a short link from the battery to the starter relay with 10mm2 and then longer piece from the relay to the starter with 16mm2 it's almost as good as all 16mm2.

16mm2 should be fine. 10mm2 might be slightly too thin for any longer cables. I think the starter takes about 100-150A. Voltage drop for 1 meter of 16mm2 cable is about 0.2V per 100A and for 10mm2 it's about 0.35V.

Finally remembered to check this. I have still few PCBs on the shelf. So if someone needs these I can make them pretty quickly.

Just guessing but your BOV is after the pitot port. So when you close the throttle air flow from the turbo to BOV goes past the pitot and keeps pushing pressure to the float bowls. And the same time pressure at carb venturis goes down as the throttle is closed. So there is plenty of pressure difference to push fuel from float bowls to the engine. Like said, this is just guessing as I'm not an expert with pressurized carbs.

Yep, that's clearly over the spec and you should fix it before using it So is this something that you have rebuilt or did it came from a running engine like that?

What you are actually measuring and how? I haven't done much measuring by myself but a local crank builder said that many stock cranks are over that 0.1mm spec. Any way, 0.28mm sounds quite a lot.

Popping on over run is pretty normal if over run fuel cut isn't enabled. It can be annoying but usually nothing to worry about.

Yep, with the Microsquirt you can map the injection times correctly. But you will still need a mechanical pressure regulator that increases fuel pressure with boost at 1:1 ratio. This keeps differential pressure over the injectors constant regardless if there is vacuum or boost at intake ports. That makes tuning easier since then the injectors will produce always the same amount of fuel for the same injection period. The MAP sensor is used to tell the ECU how much pressure there is going in the engine so that you can tune right amount of fuel for it.

Here is a pretty informative thread: https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?229202-GS-1000-engine-in-GSXR-1100-first-gen-frame

I know these 50mm 36-1 wheels have been used succesfully with stock VR sensor on oil cooled engines. But on the other hand I know cases where it has been impossible to get them working properly. In my opinion the teeth and gaps get a bit too small in this case. So to be on safe side I would use lower teeth number. 24-2 seems to be a good choice for this combo. I have done few this kind wheels for oil cooled engines and they seem work fine. Essentially the same than that nice CNC machined wheel but with two part design, a laser cut wheel and machined shaft part welded together. Doesn't look that nice but cost is lower I'm slightly surprised that the MaxxECU needed three removed teeth. What were the symptoms with 24-2?

-Shindengen SH775. Used at least on some Polaris ATVs. I think there are also other suitable Shindengen models used on various vehicles but don't remember exact details right now. Do your own googling -Compu-Fire 55402. Aftermarket option. https://compufire.com/compu-fire-55402-voltage-regulator-for-compu-fire-3phase-systems.html -Possibly some of these: http://cycleelectricinc.com/RECTIFIER.html

Yep, on GSX maximum power saving would be around 200W (1/4 hp). In practice it would be even less. So difference in available power won't be very noticeable But it will make bigger difference on stator temperature and also loading on wiring and connectors. Some guys on that other forum claim that they can see difference in oil temps as well but I highly doubt that...

A shunt regulator is "traditional" regulator type on bikes with permanent magnet generators. For example stock regulators on GS/GSX. It regulates voltage by loading the generator, conducting current to the ground if voltage tries go over the limit. Downside of this solution is that the generator runs at full load all the time which heats up the stator. A series regulator is later type and it works by conducting just enough current from the generator to the system to keep voltage at desired level. So then the generator needs to produce only the current that the electrical system needs at any moment.

The whole charging system is somewhat weak. "The stator papers" is a good place to get better picture of the issues. It's a pretty good collection of info in one place. Based on my own experience I would say that stock stator isn't tha bad. So if it's ok I wouldn't touch it. I haven't seen any real evidence that aftermarket ones would be significantly better. The regulators probably fail sooner or later. And when they fail they can take the stator as well. So in that sense it could be a good idea to uograde the regulator before it fails. The best option would be some series mode regulator. Either a Shindengen unit from some modern bike or aftermarket part. Shunt type regulators should be ok as well too if they are robust enough. I would prefer some modern OEM part over aftermarket replacements. But probably the most important thing is to check carefully all the wiring and connectors. If you upgrade the regulator then you can also disable that stupid light switch loop for one of the regulator phases.

I haven't had any real problems with mapping on inertia dynos. It helps if the roller is quite heavy so the pulls don't get too short on high power. And some proper brake is nice too as you will be braking down the roller quite often.

RPM/TPS map should work if there's also some MAP compensation. Without MAP compensation it won't work on boosted engine. RPM/MAP may work as well on your engine since you have only single throttle butterfly. With individual throttle bodies it usually won't work well.