Jump to content

Arttu

Members
  • Posts

    669
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Arttu

  1. Forced Induction Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell.
  2. Seems that I don't have notes about my current pistons. But previous 77mm Wisecos were 216g + 75g for the pin. Any ways, I think 10.000 should be ok for you too. Yep, always better to be cautious than throw a rod out of the cases... But like said, I think 10.000 should be pretty safe if you have properly made crank.
  3. If I recall correctly a stock GSX1100 doesn't have a limiter, but I might be wrong. However, I have been using 10.000 as a limit on my turbo GSX, currently 1327cc. And I think that should be pretty safe choice. To get some perspective I think pro stock GSX engines run up to 13.000 and they are around 1700cc, longer stroke and BIG pistons. But lifetime of the crank isn't very long on those.
  4. You might want to check @Blower1project threads. He has an EFE with a M62 blower. Different bike but you might still get some ideas. I was thinking a bit about your routing plan for the chargers. But looks like feeding the blower by the turbos is pretty much only option with those parts. The M62 can't shift enough air for 400hp from ambient pressure so you have to feed it by pressurized air. Also you probably will need around 2 bar boost to reach over 400hp which is quite much for the K04 turbos if you want to keep them at good efficiency range. So sequential charging makes sense, sort of Just remember to fit an intercooler somewhere too...
  5. Yep, there are some practical reasons why most of the drag bikes look the same nowadays...
  6. Looking good! Although I think it would have been even more cool with some RF style fairings
  7. Yeah, I have done some. Here's project thread for my own GSX: https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/8401-arttus-turbo-gsx/ There aren't too much details about basic fuel injection installation but maybe it gives some ideas. Then there is ongoing thread about EFI installation on a Bandit that shows more the basic details: https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/17581-mini-project-efi-for-a-turbo-bandit/ Bruteforce's EFI thread is worth of checking as well. It also shows plenty of details about the installation process: https://oldskoolsuzuki.info/forums/topic/4931-turbogs-is-going-efi/
  8. Actually the o-rings on center head nuts don't have anything to do with pressurized oil. There are deep(ish) bores for the nuts on the head and bottom corners of these bores go through the casting to outside of the head. And o-rings prevent oil leaking past the nuts. So when the o-rings fail oil starts weeping out. It leaks out from next to the middle exhaust ports but it easily looks like it's coming from the head gasket joint. If you clean the mess carefully and check again after a short run you should see where it's actually leaking. Btw, what the heck is 97 GSX1100SZ? Just to make sure we all are talking about the same animal...
  9. Arttu

    EFE Crank

    492 are standard rods on 1074cc engines, 18mm small ends. First turbo engine that I built had those rods and stock factory welded crank. Welded just like the EFE crank in picture above. It had slightly below 200 whp and run fine for few years and about 20000 km. And like said above the hp figure isn't the only thing that defines stress for the crank. High rpms with big heavy pistons can be really hard even at low power. And hard acceleration and deceleration. And high instaneous torque like dropping clutch from high rpm with sticky rear tire.
  10. Arttu

    EFE Crank

    I think it depends on usage. On street use (=no hard launches on prepped track) I think it should be fine for way over 200hp. That's assuming it's in good condition, runout within the spec and no pitting on bearings. The biggest problem is that you have no way to know condition of the bearings without disassembling the whole thing. So if you really want to ensure the reliability the only option is to get it checked and rebuilt. Alternatively you can check what's possible without disassembling, throw it in and see how it goes.
  11. Flow at 3 bar is pretty close to my measurements but dead time is quite different. I have got about 270cc @ 3 bar and 0.93ms @ 13V. If we are talking about the same injectors... Good price for testing
  12. You have '01-03 GSX-R600 TBs, right? 100% drop-in replacement injectors are quite rare for these. But if you are ready to use some adapters for top end and electrical connectors and maybe adjusting the fuel rail height then there are plenty of options. If the flow rate of the original injectors is enough for you finding a new set would be a good option too. I might have a spare set floating around. If needed I can test them and sell if they are good.
  13. Sorry if I'm stating obvious but injection pulse length is result of what you enter to fuel settings in the ECU. Fuel pressure, crank sensor or other "external" factors have no direct effect on it. During tuning process you adjust injection pulse length by the fuel table and other variables until you get proper AFR as result. So strictly speaking it doesn't matter what the pulse length is if the engine is running properly. But clearly "wrong" pulse length can be indication of some fundamental problem with your setup and especially if you have difficulties to get the engine running properly it's a good idea to figure out what is going on there. 1ms effective injection time isn't that bad, it should be still within operating window of the injectors. But indeed it sounds shorter than expected for those injectors. For comparison my GSX idles around 2ms effective on the same injectors. If the AFR is showing sensible values I think there might be something wrong with the injectors. Maybe some of them are leaking so the engine is getting more fuel than what is commanded. That could also result poor idling since some of the cylinders are getting too much fuel and others too little while the lambda sensor is showing ok mixture.
  14. Is that effective injection time (without dead time) or total? For total that's way too short, like @Gixer1460said the injectors wouldn't open almost at all. If it's effective injection time it's closer to the reality but probably still on lean side with 240-280cc injectors. Basic settings that affect on injection time are injector size and dead time. Ideally you should set these at correct values and not touch them after that. Third relating setting is injection interval, 360° or 720°. Smaller interval drops effective injection length to a half but if the dead time is set correctly it shouldn't affect on mixture. However, there is a risk that resulting injection time gets too small for accurate fuel metering. But with those injectors this shouldn't be a concern. Once these basic settings are correct it's just a matter of tuning the fuel table correctly. You tune the table to get correct AFR and resulting injection time is what it happens to be.
  15. Yep, it should work ok without intercooling. But there will be some power penalty if you are using any higher boost (>15 psi or so).
  16. So are you going to run it without intercooling?
  17. Effort was shared between three guys so it wasn't too bad in the end.
  18. Carbide end mill bits can also do wonders sometimes. Once I had to enlarge a hole in a hardened steel bushing. A cobalt drill couldn't do anything to it and I was almost giving up but then thought to give a try for a mill bit. And for my surprise it went like into butter.
  19. That's pretty much how my last engine installation went. Amount of required effort can be seen on the table
  20. Yep, metal side out is how I think it shouid be. And how it seems to be in the manual pic above.
  21. I think it should be other way around but unfortunately I can't remember where I checked it from. Even the workshop manual doesn't tell that clearly. But for example in this picture it probably is other way around. If you take a close look on the seal you can see the lips are different compared to normal oil seals. Mine was weeping slightly when mounted wrong way. But if your's doesn't leak then there shouldn't be anything to worry about.
  22. Can't remember exactly, it was few years back... Btw, are you sure you have it there right way around? That was the reason why I had to take mine out.
  23. Not sure about the GS1000 but I have done this with a GSX1100 successfully. I think I drilled a small hole on the old seal to pry it out. Then just carefully tapped in the new one.
  24. I think you have to do some leg work for compression ratio and cylinder spacer questions. I mean if you want to get good results. Here's how I would tackle that: First you need to decide what compression ratio you want. Variables are the usual ones, how much boost, what fuel, do you have charge cooling and so on. I guess you will need something like 22-30 psi boost and proper intercooling to reach your 400hp target. On pump gasoline I would probably aim for 8.5-9:1 compression. With race gas or E85 something like 10:1 should be good. Piston to head clearance (squish gap) should be around 1.0-1.5mm. Then you need to measure and calculate the actual compression ratio with your pistons. Quite often advertised compression ratios for pistons are very inaccurate so your 10:1 pistons might be actually 9:1 or 11:1. Now you know how much you need to change the compression and you can check how to do that. One good option for minor adjustment is to machine piston tops if there is enough meat on them. If you machine just the dish in the middle of the top you can keep the squish band and proper combustion chamber shape. You can also adjust the squish cap within the range mentioned above. Also one option is to remove material from the head but that has relatively small effect if you don't ruin the shape completely. As last resort you can throw the squish band out of the window and increase the gap even more. But that will most likely hurt efficiency and possibly increase knock sensitivity.
  25. All the EFE engines had factory welded cranks and some of the earlier E models had too. I don't know (or recall) the exact point when the E models started to have welded cranks but it's somewhere around '82. Maybe at the same time when they switched to bigger taper on the flywheel. The factory welded cranks are good for some power if they are otherwise in good shape. For example my stock '83 E engine was running fine for quite long time at 200hp power. But if you are looking for some serious power and want it to be reliable too it's better to get the crank checked and built by someone who knows these cranks. The factory tolerances are too loose for serious use.
×
×
  • Create New...