Arttu

You should do that no matter what gears you use. I wouldn't trust stock back plate on any seriously tuned engine.

Yep, the issue with helical gears is side load for the crank and clutch. Not strength of the gears itself. I haven't any clear answer either when straight cut gears start to be necessary. I can just tell that I run my old turbo engine for quite long time on street with helical gears, about 200hp, no issues. And I have seen also more powerful engines with helical gears but I don't know much about their longevity. So for about 200hp street engine I probably wouldn't bother to invest for straight cut gears. But if you are aiming for closer to 300hp or above then I would consider them seriously.

Well, there are various technically valid arquments for different locations. Like: On plenum, just before throttle blades - Air keeps moving along inlet tract while the bov is venting so no time and energy will be wasted to accelerate air again when throttle is opened again. Before IC - Like mentioned above, IC won't be heated by vented air. But my guess is that difference will be negligible no matter where you place it...

CBR1000 (old one) works as well. Ok, I'll get my coat...

I saw that coming The engine came in that shape from previous owner and I have no plans to fire it up before complete rebuild.

A bit late reply but here is a photo how Denso 129700-4400 coils look 1127 engine. These were from '05 GSX-R1000 and apparently they have been used on many other 1000 & 600 models as well. Slightly difficult to say for sure but looks like they sit lower than yours.

I'm not sure if excessive pressure will cause leaking, granted that oil return can keep up. Naturally higher pressure means also higher flow through the turbo so if return is marginal it can cause leaking. But too high pressure increases drag for the turbine shaft that slows down spooling. I have noticed this by my self. Adjusting oil pressure from 6-7 bars to 2-3 bars made spool-up noticeably faster.

Lack of flywheel will definitely make it more difficult to get proper crank signal. Choice between parallel and series connection of the batteries isn't that simple. To get more power from the starter you need both voltage and current. If voltage drops low then the starter won't take current. And if the battery can't give enough current the voltage will drop. Connecting batteries in parallel improves current output so voltage will drop less while cranking. So if single battery can't give enough current then parallel connection will help. Series connection will double the voltage and then the starter tries to take also double amount of current. But to get benefit of increased voltage both batteries must be capable of deliver enough current. So if you use something really small as second battery then it's voltage will drop close to zero and benefit will be negligible or even negative. If you are experimenting with dual batteries I would try first parallel connection as it is simpler and less risky.

I have to disagree with chain tunnel part. On my GSX I have 5.5" GSX-R rear wheel, GSX sprocket carrier and 13mm offset front sprocket (530 chain). I would say the wheel is pretty much centered and only modification to the frame is slight clean-up of shifter pedal shaft weld. Although all the clearances are at minimum now. The chain almost touches the frame tubes and it will rub tire if it is at wider end of 180 size (like Michelin).

180mm is pretty much maximum width that you can squeeze in while keeping the wheel centered. (We are talking about GSX1100, right?). Beyond that frame modifications are needed.

Yep. Lambda sensors basically read unburnt oxygen from exhaust gases. So when it's too rich to ignite mixture there is plenty of unused oxygen in exhaust and that results lean reading. Trickiest situation is when you are at borderline, still running but missing every second stroke or so. In that case AFR reading usually settles around 12 which is perfectly fine looking for a turbo engine... I would also guess that you are going massively rich at that point. On the other hand it could be too lean as well But going to lean that quickly would require some drastic problem in fuel supply, float bowl pressurization not working, missing boost reference for pressure regulator or something like that.

Ok, so just get any random thermostat, gut it and adapt the design to suit it Just thought that maybe you were using parts from some commercial oilstat...

Thanks for the drawing! What waxstat unit you are using? I have been also wondering if there would be still too much flow through cooler when the bypass is open but apparently not. Thanks for confirming. Getting aluminium welds completely sealed can be a bitch sometimes. I had similar incident with a swingarm that was supposed to work as air tank. So even without any oil involved. Perfectly looking seam had some invisible void leaking air slowly. Ground it back properly and laid new good looking seam over it. Still leaks. Repeated half dozen times until I gave up and used some epoxy glue to seal it

Nice! Care to tell a bit more about that? What oilstat element you are using etc? I assume it just opens bypass channel when oil is cold?

If it's a lead acid battery most likely it wont give enough cranking current. Depending on battery type and quality you will probably need something like 7-10Ah lead acid battery at minimum. Lithium (LiFePo4) batteries give more cranking current relative to their capacity so even 4Ah could be enough with them.

You can get a rebuild kit from APE: http://gszone.biz/clutches.html You can do the rebuild by yourself if you are careful and have right tools. New rivets must be welded on the back plate and the weld beads should be pretty flat. So TIG is preferred method. Also the back plate should be clamped tightly on the clutch for welding. And just to clarify, I was talking about springs on backside of the clutch hub not clutch pack springs.

That's some kind special from local Holset distributor. As far as I know the turbine side and center piece are from HX35, apparently 8cm2 housing. Compressor side is then something slightly smaller. It should spool faster than the HX and still produce over 400hp. And first of all it's easier to fit I also did some test fitting with HX35 but it would have been too much hassle. Basically choices were to mount it too low for gravity drain or hack the frame loop. Or do side mount installation. Here is HX35 sitting below oil level.

Haha! I was sure someone will mention that. The engine is still intact from previous owner but don't worry, it will be fully dismantled and checked before action. Unfortunately I can't take much credit from the headers. I just decided general layout and acquired materials. A friend of mine did actual fabrication as he is really handy with this stuff.

Few comments: Have you tried placing the turbo on other side of the bike? That could make things a bit easier. Or not. What size are the bends? Looks like they could be smaller which would make fitting easier pretty much everywhere but especially at collector. Forget about equal length. As far as I know it isn't very important with turbo headers. Just for an example, here are few pics of header that I have on my current project. It isn't HY35 but similar sized HX35 based hybrid so fitment should be quite similar as well.

Probably ok if you have AFR and ignition timing right. I have run stock GSX1100E engine, 9.5 CR, up to 0.7 bar boost. No problems, produced something like 160-180hp.

I guess it will be fine even without any changes. Actually you can get surprising amounts of flow through small orifices if length of restricted part is short. For longer length hoses and pipes it's more important to keep cross section large enough. Just for an anecdote, I have seen nitro bikes that have a single AN6 hose to feed all the fuel for the engine, about 1000hp worth of nitro! Although I guess that causes some noticeable pressure loss but compared to that 155lph through 4mm rail is nothing On the other hand placing the regulator before the fuel rail should work just fine as well. Most of the factory installations use this arrangement.

Hmm, 60ms cut time should be at right ballpark. If I remember correctly I'm using 80ms on my GSX with normal foot shifter. With air shifters I have been using 40-60ms with good results. These were with plain ignition cut, no retard nor fuel modifiers. So I'm wondering if that ignition retard is causing problems in your case. If it's retarding 30 deg from current value that will probably result something like 0 deg timing when spark comes back. And that will effectively lit up all un-burnt mixture in exhaust.

Fuel cut should work as well as long as you have the injectors relatively close to the intake valves. On the other hand correctly configured ignition cut shouldn't cause much popping either. Rule of thumb is that if you hear popping while shifting you have too long cut time.

If we are talking about using Busa pistons in EFE engine that will result about 1360cc not 1428cc. @Blower1 is the guy to contact about this since he has done it a couple of times if I recall correctly. Like described above he has done this by using larger sleeves on stock EFE block. Benefit of this approach is still having air passages between the cylinders and original size cooling fins. So this reduces heat problems compared to aftermarket big blocks. On downside there are quite many small details to sort out to get everything right. Like getting deck height and compression ratio correct, sealing the sleeves on the block etc.

Too bad. It was worth of trying anyways