Arttu

Please see this thread:

All true. But still a great engine!

I had that kind problem with my IHI VF34 too. Enlarging the wastegate hole to the maximum and shaping it better helped a lot. If I recall correctly with that it was able to hold about 0.8-0.9 bar minimum boost steadily. Later on I replaced the flapper valve with bigger one and enlarged the hole even more which allowed a bit lower steady boost. I'm also using a Kinugawa actuator.

Engine displacement is quite bad reference for estimating suitability of a turbo. Power is much more relevant figure for that, original NA power and target power with boost. Any way, 20kW is pretty small number to start with so probably that will need a turbo from the smallest end of commonly available range. I don't remember details of the VF20 but I guess it has been used on 150-200hp engines so most likely it's way too big. One of the smallest turbos that I know is IHI RHB31 which probably should be fine for this engine. Those are also widely available as cheap aftermarket copies so trying one wouldn't be extremely expensive.

+10 years and counting

Seems that you are progressing. 13.5V and 25A from the alternator sounds ok. I guess your battery wasn't fully charged at that point so it was taking all the extra current from the alternator and keeping the voltage slightly low. Most likely once the battery is full you would see slightly higher voltage and lower current. However, 13.5V is already fine for the fuel injection and ignition. It's quite normal to see some variation between battery voltage measured by a multimeter and logged voltage. There can be some minor voltage drop between the battery and ECU. Also voltage measurement on the ECU isn't that accurate, around 0.5V errors are pretty normal. The Microsquirt has calibration values for battery voltage that you can adjust if you want to get the reading the same with a multimeter. Good that you found the clogged injectors! Something like that would have been my next guess. As you mentioned injection timing or injector pairing shouldn't make any significant difference at this level. It should run on all cylinders no matter what phase the injectors are fired.

Looks correct to me. Oil is coming up from holes on the intake side, goes up around intake side head stud, to the exhaust side through that passage under the gasket and there up around the exhaust side head stud. Take a look on the cylinder block and you should see how this works. One potential problem with that kind fiber / paper gasket is that over time it may get squeezed into oil passage restricting the flow to the exhaust side. I have understood this is the reason why Suzuki switched to metal base gasket on EFE engines.

That's somewhat tricky questions since both generated heat and cooling efficiency are heavily depending on usage. In your case amount of heat will be relatively high since the engine will be run at high rpm and load almost constantly. But on the other hand speed of the bike will be also high which increases cooling efficiency a lot. Typically for road bikes the most challenging situation is slowly moving traffic when you don't have much cooling air flow around the engine. Once you get to higher speed the temps usually go down even if you are using much more power. My experiences are mainly from road use so I can't provide much advice about cooler sizing for that kind race use. But to give some perspective I can tell that compared to no cooler even a stock EFE/1150 cooler made a significant difference. And that's a tiny cooler. Now I have that pretty typical 13 row Mocal cooler and it can handle my 1327cc turbo engine without any problems. I have been doing track days only few times but I think I didn't see any higher oil temps there compared to normal normal highway riding. Although my speed at the track is probably much closer to normal street riding than serious racing

Sounds like the alternator is doing something but not giving even close to full charging current. If you don't have some stupid big fuel pump or other very power hungry gadgets the alternator should be still able to feed all consumers and also charge the battery above the idle. Which means that the voltage should go over 13V and typically over 14V once the battery is fully charged. A clamp type current meter would be one useful tool to figure out what is really happening there. With that you could check how much current your alternator is making and how much is drained through individual wires.

Size of the hole in the plug isn't that critical. Its only purpose is to provide a backup route for oil if the cooler gets blocked for some reason. Any way, 0.25mm is quite small I think channel on the EFE cover is equal to 3-5mm hole. For oil pump gears you can use gears from 77-82 GS/GSX750. Part numbers are: 1633145000, pump gear, 29 teeth 1632145002, clutch shaft gear, 38 teeth Original gears are 33/34 teeth. So the 750 gears result 27% increase on pump speed and flow. Oil pressure will increase as well but it's kind of secondary thing on these engines. Roller bearings on the crank let the oil flow through pretty easily so the pressure is always low and varies a lot depending on oil temp and viscosity. But in any case, the pump gear upgrade should provide a substantial increase on oil flow to the head. The gears are also available as aftermarket performance parts. As far as I know these are usually re-packed 750 gears from Suzuki but there might be exceptions as well since the original Suzuki parts are getting rare. https://www.suzukiperformancespares.co.uk/product/suzuki-gs1000-hi-volume-oil-pump-gears/706/ I don't have any first hand experience about this kind racing with these engines so I can't say what would be the critical points to make the engine survive or what kind lifetime you can expect on some power level. But generally one very important thing on these engines is to get the crank built properly. These pressed roller bearing cranks are somewhat tricky to build. There aren't too many engine shops that are even willing to touch them and based on what I have heard even the reputable shops may sometimes slip out less perfect work. So finding a trustworthy crank builder would be pretty important.

I think E models have paper gasket and EFE metal.

An EFE filter cover isn't that big deal for oil cooler. You can achieve the same pretty easily by making a plug for oil feed passage under the filter cover. But either one of these is needed to get oil going through the cooler.

Since it sounds that you are doing some serious stuff there I would recommend spending some time with oil circuit diagrams and actual engine parts to clarify for yourself how the lubrication system really works. After that it would be much easier to filter all the info that you get from various sources and understand how different modifications affect to the system. I have noticed that there is plenty of less accurate or even miss leading info circulating around this topic. Usually all the commercial "upgrade" parts serve some purpose but they might be intended for some very specific setup and using them on some other setup may lead to disaster. For example there are variants of the top end oiling kit that take all the oil flow from the pump to the head. Idea there is to feed oil to the crank backwards from the head through the head stud channels. Combine this with above mentioned "dry block" mod and you may get some trouble...

Just to confirm, I assume you are talking about 16 valve GS1100, known as GSX1100 in Europe? Problem with the top end oiling kits for these engines is that they alter the oil circuit in various ways. Depending on other parts that you use you may end hurting oil flow to some parts of the engine. So if you are going to fit one you really should figure out what it really does and how it affects to oil circulation of the whole engine. In my opinion the cases where top end oiling kit is needed or beneficial are: Big bore cylinders that take out original oil passages on bottom surface of the block. HD cylinder studs that restrict oil flow around the studs to the head. And I'm not completely sure how real this scenario is, I haven't measured how much area there is left around the HD studs. High lift cams and stiff valve springs. I have been told that in this case additional oil flow will increase lifetime of the cams and rockers. Again, I'm not sure what is the point where you need more oil flow and if an external oiling kit is needed to get enough flow. One useful mod would be "high flow" oil pump gears, which means gears from GS750. They increase oil flow by 30% which should help lubrication of all engine parts. Oil cooler is definitely a good idea. I would also recommend some oil temp gauge so you can get an idea how well your cooler is working and if you need any improvements for the cooling.

Done that several times Yes, it will be a bit messy but not a complete disaster if you lean the bike. Unfortunately there aren't much better options for timing check. Making a windowed cover is one option but based on my experience that doesn't work too well either due to splashing oil.

Well, static voltage without load also tells something. Voltage under load can't be any better than without load. But it doesn't tell how low voltage on coils may drop under load. About 1.5V drop is already quite significant but not totally bad if it doesn't get any worse. But if your charging voltage is already low and then coils get that 1.5V less it starts to hurt spark power quite significantly. And if voltage drop gets bigger under load resulting voltage might be low enough to cause spark drops even without boost. You can use the test mode to generate load for voltage measurement. Set it sparking at some relatively high rpm, 6000-9000rpm, and check voltage on coil terminals. Additionally you can also enable the fuel pump and repeat voltage measurement. Depending on how the pump is wired it can cause significant voltage drop too.

So the timing was staying correct also at higher rpm? Did you measure voltage at the coils? Preferably under load. For loading you can use a jump wire to ground the negative terminal of the coil while measuring voltage on the positive terminal. Checking the injector flows is definitely a good idea. Second hand injectors can be in whatever condition, especially after longer storage period. And uneven injector flows could be one potential reason why it doesn't run properly even when the measured AFR is ok. Switching back to stock ignition and running it as fuel only for troubleshooting is a valid idea. Only problem is that sometimes it can be slightly tricky to get reliable rpm signal from the stock ignition system. So while you are eliminating some potential problem you may bring in some new ones...

One thing that came to my mind from your 1st tooth angle wondering. Did you check ignition timing at different rpms? If you have the crank sensor wires wrong way around or input polarity wrong in the settings the timing might be ok at some rpm but drift when rpm changes.

No personal experience with copper gaskets either but based on what I have heard they are kind of hit or miss with oil sealing. Some claim that they will be tight if you do it correctly while others say that they will weep oil sooner or later no matter what you do... Personally I would just switch to MLS gasket if there are suitable ones available. They have been pretty much trouble free for me.

I briefly checked the factory service manual but didn't find anything related to this. There are specifications for the shift fork clearances and widht of the gear pack on the shaft but nothing for the selector drum.

Hi, thanks for chiming in! Could you comment how the full auto transmission have been working for you? I have been wondering how much trouble it would cause on this kind street tire no wheelie bar bikes. I have understood that the auto gears like to break stuff if you shut off the throttle or otherwise cut power on them. And at least on tracks here in Europe loosing the traction on lower gears is pretty common and also wheelies are happening all the time. So I would imagine that a full auto trans would require some repairs quite often.

I have been really happy with my Wilbers shocks. But they are a fair bit more expensive than that £400... I have also tried Hagons and can't recommend them if you need any real performance from the suspension. Damping was pretty crude and they also started leak during the first season. Although this was over 15 years ago so I don't know if their quality has changed since that.

It's a complete set including the wheel, new pickup and mounting plate for the pickup.

So you are using the dual trigger mode in the Microsquirt? I have never tried it by myself but I have heard it doesn't work too well in reality. Like already suggested using some missing tooth trigger would be a good idea. I would recommend something between 16-24 teeth and 1 or 2 missing. I can supply a bolt-on set with 24-2 wheel if you are interested.

Yes, a lock-up seems to do that if it isn't slipping too badly. So revs shoot up a bit but not to the limiter and once the bike has collected some more speed the clutch will hook up again.