Arttu

That's a starting point! Based on the screenshot it looks like you hadn't basically any clutch slip. So less static spring load, less weights or harder counter springs. Order depends on what your current settings are. As starting point I would set the static springs as light as possible but just hard enough that you can ride around without slip. That rpm drop on launch also messes up your boost on the 1st gear. The turbo isn't getting on the operating area until just before the shift on the 2nd.

I agree that you have something odd going on if you are killing the wideband sensors at that rate. Usually they can take quite much abuse from excessive rich mixtures and soot. Pre-heating the sensor before start-up isn't the best idea. What kills the sensors is thermal shocks, not condensation or moisture itself. So if you heat the sensor first and then start the engine there is risk that the hot sensor gets blasted by raw fuel or condensed water. And that can break the sensing element in the sensor. On the other hand you shouldn't run the engine for extended periods when the sensor is non-powered. The sensor has self cleaning function when it's working and running without power may collect too much soot inside the sensor.

One catch to remember with MS3 warmup settings is that on afterstart enrichment (ASE) 0 means no enrichment while on warmup enrichment (WUE) 100 means no enrichment. So if you enter 0 to the WUE table you may end to "no fuel" result. You need to set the WUE to 100 at normal engine running temp, anything above that means that the system is in warmup mode and some functions may work differently then.

Might be an error with your warmup settings. Or something completely else. Just guessing with this info. Send me a log where it dies and you try to restart it, with your current settings file. I can take a look.

Both are possible, depending on the ECU tuning strategy. But I recommend connecting it between the throttle(s) and engine. Usually that gives better results.

You are talking about apples and oranges, a little bit. Lambda target table will be used in any case. And it's just a target table for lambda corrections (and autotune), not an actual tuning table. But your Route 2 is pretty much the way how I tune turbo bikes with MaxxECU. The main VE table is TPS vs. RPM and then an extra table as MAP vs. RPM. Although I don't recommend disconnecting the boost pipe. That has a risk of overspeeding the turbo and it isn't a realistic case for tuning since you will have exhaust back pressure but no boost. My procedure is to set the boost to the lowest possible value, maybe even lock the wastegate open, and the extra table to zeros. Then you tune the TPS/RPM VE table completely. Then start increasing boost and do required corrections with the MAP/RPM table.

Half degree ignition retard per psi sounds roughly correct, maybe little bit conservative. Typically optimal timing for a low compression oil cooled engines has been around 28-30 degrees at 15-22 psi boost range. Some guys are using clearly more timing, like 36 degrees, without problems. But while the engine may survive this just fine it usually doesn't make any more power compared to lower timing.

There is no angle setting for the second sensor. Actual angle for it is irrelevant since it's only tells which revolution of the working cycle is going on. However, there is a change that you get the cam signal on "wrong" revolution which will shift ignition timing by 360 degrees. Fix for this is to simply add 360 on the crank first tooth angle. The ignition amplifier needs to be able to handle the current that the coil draws. Otherwise you don't need to worry about their matching. 3 Ohm coils draw so low current that all the automotive amplifiers can drive them.

Based on your photo the trigger angle seems to be about 105 degrees. The cam sensor is called as 2nd trigger if I recall right. In the same menu with crank trigger.

If it's a three wire sensor it's most likely a hall type. Those usually ground the input when the trigger is at the sensor. The ECU has a pull-up resistor which drives the signal high when the sensor isn't grounding. Some sensors may have this pull-up built-in. Usually the signal polarity doesn't matter for the cam sensor. You need just some transition pulse once per engine cycle (two revolutions) so that the ECU can detect which revolution is going on. You can then tweak the ECU settings to get it matched to correct revolution. Almost all Megasquirt variants support full sequential operation. Then it depends on the version if there is enough outputs to actually do it on the particular engine. Regarding my crank sensor kit, maybe better to send all questions directly to me so that we don't clutter this thread completely.

1. Yes, find the TDC and make timing marks for it. Then measure the angle where the first trigger tooth after missing ones meets the sensor. Use this angle in the ECU settings. Once you have the engine running verify the timing with a timing light and correct the angle setting if needed. 2. Tuner Studio MS is the correct one for Megasquirt / Microsquirt ECUs.

It's pretty normal that you need to somehow open the throttle a little bit for cold start and cold idle. No matter what you do with fuel tuning. All stock EFI bikes have some mechanism for that. Either manual lever than opens the throttle blades or some kind automatic idle air valve.

Last time when I was buying these the OEMs were cheaper than the viton ones. My parts dealer who has plenty of experience about these engines told that the viton seals are good but not worth of extra price compared to OEM. So with these prices I would be tempted to try the viton seals. I have had mixed results with other non-OEM seals. Some have been fine, some have hardened or popped off after relatively short use.

AN6 is fine for pressure side fuel lines unless you are aiming for some extreme power figures with methanol. On intake side of the pump you can use AN8 or some other bigger hose for peace of mind if you have some really high flow pump. But for for pumps that flow 250lph or less AN6 will be ok, most likely. It also depends on how long are the lines, what kind connections and fittings you have and so on. But generally speaking the pump intake side is way more sensitive for restriction than the pressure side. I don't remember exactly what size the oil cooler lines usually are but I would say that AN8 should be enough. AN6 might be at borderline.

It's 50mm diameter. And it doesn't fit on the aircooled GSX engine. But I have a trigger kit for that too. It comes with new sensor and sensor mounting plate.