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About Arttu

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    Ball Peen Hammer

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  1. Size of the hole in the plug isn't that critical. Its only purpose is to provide a backup route for oil if the cooler gets blocked for some reason. Any way, 0.25mm is quite small I think channel on the EFE cover is equal to 3-5mm hole. For oil pump gears you can use gears from 77-82 GS/GSX750. Part numbers are: 1633145000, pump gear, 29 teeth 1632145002, clutch shaft gear, 38 teeth Original gears are 33/34 teeth. So the 750 gears result 27% increase on pump speed and flow. Oil pressure will increase as well but it's kind of secondary thing on these engine
  2. I think E models have paper gasket and EFE metal.
  3. An EFE filter cover isn't that big deal for oil cooler. You can achieve the same pretty easily by making a plug for oil feed passage under the filter cover. But either one of these is needed to get oil going through the cooler.
  4. Since it sounds that you are doing some serious stuff there I would recommend spending some time with oil circuit diagrams and actual engine parts to clarify for yourself how the lubrication system really works. After that it would be much easier to filter all the info that you get from various sources and understand how different modifications affect to the system. I have noticed that there is plenty of less accurate or even miss leading info circulating around this topic. Usually all the commercial "upgrade" parts serve some purpose but they might be intended for some very specific setu
  5. Just to confirm, I assume you are talking about 16 valve GS1100, known as GSX1100 in Europe? Problem with the top end oiling kits for these engines is that they alter the oil circuit in various ways. Depending on other parts that you use you may end hurting oil flow to some parts of the engine. So if you are going to fit one you really should figure out what it really does and how it affects to oil circulation of the whole engine. In my opinion the cases where top end oiling kit is needed or beneficial are: Big bore cylinders that take out original oil passages on bottom surfac
  6. Done that several times Yes, it will be a bit messy but not a complete disaster if you lean the bike. Unfortunately there aren't much better options for timing check. Making a windowed cover is one option but based on my experience that doesn't work too well either due to splashing oil.
  7. Well, static voltage without load also tells something. Voltage under load can't be any better than without load. But it doesn't tell how low voltage on coils may drop under load. About 1.5V drop is already quite significant but not totally bad if it doesn't get any worse. But if your charging voltage is already low and then coils get that 1.5V less it starts to hurt spark power quite significantly. And if voltage drop gets bigger under load resulting voltage might be low enough to cause spark drops even without boost. You can use the test mode to generate load for voltage measurement. Se
  8. So the timing was staying correct also at higher rpm? Did you measure voltage at the coils? Preferably under load. For loading you can use a jump wire to ground the negative terminal of the coil while measuring voltage on the positive terminal. Checking the injector flows is definitely a good idea. Second hand injectors can be in whatever condition, especially after longer storage period. And uneven injector flows could be one potential reason why it doesn't run properly even when the measured AFR is ok. Switching back to stock ignition and running it as fuel only for troublesho
  9. One thing that came to my mind from your 1st tooth angle wondering. Did you check ignition timing at different rpms? If you have the crank sensor wires wrong way around or input polarity wrong in the settings the timing might be ok at some rpm but drift when rpm changes.
  10. No personal experience with copper gaskets either but based on what I have heard they are kind of hit or miss with oil sealing. Some claim that they will be tight if you do it correctly while others say that they will weep oil sooner or later no matter what you do... Personally I would just switch to MLS gasket if there are suitable ones available. They have been pretty much trouble free for me.
  11. Arttu


    I briefly checked the factory service manual but didn't find anything related to this. There are specifications for the shift fork clearances and widht of the gear pack on the shaft but nothing for the selector drum.
  12. Hi, thanks for chiming in! Could you comment how the full auto transmission have been working for you? I have been wondering how much trouble it would cause on this kind street tire no wheelie bar bikes. I have understood that the auto gears like to break stuff if you shut off the throttle or otherwise cut power on them. And at least on tracks here in Europe loosing the traction on lower gears is pretty common and also wheelies are happening all the time. So I would imagine that a full auto trans would require some repairs quite often.
  13. I have been really happy with my Wilbers shocks. But they are a fair bit more expensive than that £400... I have also tried Hagons and can't recommend them if you need any real performance from the suspension. Damping was pretty crude and they also started leak during the first season. Although this was over 15 years ago so I don't know if their quality has changed since that.
  14. It's a complete set including the wheel, new pickup and mounting plate for the pickup.
  15. So you are using the dual trigger mode in the Microsquirt? I have never tried it by myself but I have heard it doesn't work too well in reality. Like already suggested using some missing tooth trigger would be a good idea. I would recommend something between 16-24 teeth and 1 or 2 missing. I can supply a bolt-on set with 24-2 wheel if you are interested.
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