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Arttu

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About Arttu

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  1. They have letters A, B, C... on them and matching letters can be found on the head.
  2. Arttu

    Lifepo Battery

    Basically you can use LiFePo batteries with the same regulator than normal lead acid battery. Maximum voltage is pretty much the same for both. However, LiFePo is less tolerant for both under and over voltages. Anything below 13V won't charge it at all and over voltage will destroy it faster than a lead acid battery. And one additional note for anyone reading this: Make sure you don't mix LiFePo batteries with LiPo/LiIon batteries. Latter ones have different voltage range and they can be dangerous if charged incorrectly!
  3. Arttu

    New reg/rec

    Sure. But he was asking for the best.
  4. Arttu

    New reg/rec

    Shindengen SH-775, used on some Polaris quads etc. It's series type so it doesn't load the generator when there isn't high load from the bike. Just be aware that there is loads of fakes sold on Eblag etc.
  5. Yep, if I recall correctly my '83 1100E had paper base gasket. And that was pretty much the latest of the 1074cc engines.
  6. I don't know how it works with Ignitech but with MS1 the reference teeth had to be before your highest ignition timing. Meaning if you want to use maximum 40° ignition advance then the reference tooth must be at 45° BTDC or earlier. But preferably not too much earlier since that would increase timing error.
  7. What? I guess that's some ECU specific stuff? With most of the ECUs that I have played with you just enter angle of #1 tooth and angles between the cylinders. Then the ECU will handle the rest to get desired ignition timing. Old Megasquirt 1 was an exception where you had to fill in reference trigger tooth numbers for each cylinder within certain window from ignition event.
  8. Tooth #1 is usually the first one after missing one(s). Most of the ECUs are quite flexible for location of the #1 tooth / missing tooth. But for reliable decoding during cranking it would be best to place it at point where the crank speed is highest during cranking. Apparently this is around 100° BTDC on inline 4 engines. Reading point of a tooth should be in the middle of the tooth. When using VR type sensors. This is the point where polarity of signal reverts and crosses 0V level. With hall type sensors the point would be either edge of the tooth. For reference see: http://www.useasydo
  9. I think "because you can" is a pretty good answer for "Why?" question. "Learning something new" is another good one. If we are talking about relatively stock engine benefits of EFI won't be huge compared to well working carbs so it's hard to justify the effort just by them. With boosted or otherwise heavily modified engine the benefits can be more significant. But as my personal opinion you could spend your time and money in much worse ways than converting a stock engine to EFI. I just recommend to take it as a learning project instead of simple fit and forget update. Naturally there will
  10. @ReinhoudYou got it pretty much correct: 1: Correct. 2: Yes, spacer. Only needed since I couldn't make threads up to head of the bolt. 3/6: Oil pressure switch for oil light. 0.3 bar, from some random car. 4: Banjo bolt for turbo feed line. 5: Turbo oil feed line. You are right, it's somewhat tricky to be sure that all parts of the engine get enough oil after messing up with the system. But it helps to figure it out if you keep in mind that the oil pump is positive displacement type meaning the flow isn't significantly affected by pressure. So if you add restricti
  11. Beep, wrong! With the mod pictured above I had about 3-4 bar pressure for the turbo, warmed up. I run a plain bearing turbo with that for about 20 000km without issues.
  12. The big "bolt" in lower picture is the actual trick. It goes in place of the oil pressure switch, the tip goes into oil channel coming from the filter so it captures all the oil flow. Oil to the engine is bled through a small hole on side of the bolt. The turbo gets unrestricted oil flow from top of the bolt. Pressure for the turbo can be adjusted by size of the bleed hole. On top of everything there is also a pressure switch from some car to replace the original pressure switch.
  13. I think you would get unfiltered oil from the filter cover. Not good for the turbo... By looking the parts fiches it seem that you could do similar take-off plug in place of the oil pressure switch that I have used on my GSX.
  14. The pump gears are the same for plain and roller bearing 750s. So unfortunately no help for you that way. However, most likely it's possible to add a restrictor on the oil channel somewhere between the filter and rest of the engine and take oil to the turbo from front side of the restrictor. This way you should be able to get high enough pressure even for a plain bearing turbo. I'm not very familiar with the 750 engines so can't tell exactly how this should be done but I guess it's doable.
  15. Actually I haven't used a 1150 transmission with 1100 cases, only with 1150 cases. But based on pretty good understanding of lubrication system of these engines I would say it shouldn't make any difference if a 1150 tranny is placed in 1150 or 1100 cases.
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