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  1. If I recall correctly you need to change the head studs too. Otherwise it should be just bolt-on. 1150 intake valves are 1mm bigger but I think that should be still ok with reliefs on the 1100 pistons. To be clear, I have never done exactly this swap but I have played quite a bit with both engines and don't see any problem there. And I know it has been quite popular mod back in the days.
  2. The cooling effect is definitely real but even that can be easily over estimated. If you have a temp sensor downstream the injection nozzle it will get cooled by water mist and therefore show lower readings than actual air temp. I guess in-cylinder cooling reduces cylinder pressure during power stroke which then more or less cancels benefits of improved intake air density. Like you said water vapor also replaces some air in intake charge but I think that has quite minor effect in the end. Actually having enough water on board isn't that big problem in street use. If you use mainly water and keep injection flow reasonble the water consumption is pretty low. I have about 1.5 liter tank and it lasts for several hundreds of kilometers even when riding moderately hard. On cricuit track it was enough for about an hour of track time if I recall correctly. But I still have some fail safe mechanisms in my system so if I run out of water or the nozzle gets blocked the boost control gets disabled and boost drops to base spring pressure.
  3. Pretty good video and matches quite well to my experiences too. Although difference between the fluids was surprisingly big, I would guess there was some factor in play that wasn't properly tuned around. Also I was expecting that kind engine setup showing some power gain with properly set up water injection. But again confirms the point that water injection is more about increasing safety than getting more power. Naturally it can allow you to rise the boost and get more power that way.
  4. I have some experience, mostly with straight water or about 20% water/ethanol mix. To summarize it shortly it seems to be good for increasing safety margin but not that great power adder. I can see nice drop in intake air and exhaust temps but getting any power increase requires just correct amount of water. At best I have seen about 5% power increase with gasoline but with E85 it has been pretty much 0 by this far. Although I haven't spent too much time trying to find optimal combination of water flow and ignition timing. Using methanol at 50/50 or even higher ratio would probably give better results for power. But then you may need to tune fueling to compensate added methanol which increases risks if you run out of water/methanol.
  5. I don't think I have ever seen engine coolant used for intercooling. With typical water-air cooler setup outcoming air can be 20-50°C above coolant temp. So if you start from 80°C coolant the result won't be too good. Yes, maybe better than nothing if you are running high enough boost but still hardly worth of effort.
  6. At lower boost the turbine needs to do less work so more exhaust gases are going through the wastegate. This results lower exhaust pressure.
  7. Less boost means easier life for many parts. Intake air temp will be lower which means smaller risk for detonation. Also exhaust temp and pressure are lower which also helps with detonation and exhaust valves will live longer too. For the bottom end it probably doesn't make much difference since the cylinder pressures should be roughly the same. Maybe a little bit better for smaller boost because there is less work to do on exhaust stroke.
  8. In other units the cam cap bolts should be tightened to 8-12Nm And since those aren't original bolts I would check they are at least 10.9 strength. Edit: Almost missed this was oilcooled section. Numbers are for the EFE engine which seems to be in the picture if I'm not mistaken...
  9. Can't remember exact details since it's pretty long time since I have played with the stock ignition system. But I remember for sure that sometimes either of the coils was staying energized while key was on and engine not running. I'm not sure but I think sometimes both of the coils may stay off depending on how the crank has turned. Any way, the coils will get pretty hot if they stay energized for several minutes. I don't know how easy it is to burn the coils this way but I would try to avoid long key on / engine off periods just to be safe.
  10. Yes, sounds like faulty ignitor. But to be sure you can still try to crank the engine few revolutions while everything is connected and see if that changes the results. If I recall correctly the ignitor may keep one coil constantly on like that if the crank stops at some specific position.
  11. I guess the 1mm thick one is a shim and it should go under the thick grooved washer. I think there are some variations in this area between year models so probably that's the reason why your parts diagram doesn't show the shim. Here is a snip from an EFE manual but I think the setup was the same also on '83 E model.
  12. Yep, there seems to be huge variation in quality with those halogen replacement LED bulbs. The best ones are pretty good but there is plenty of utter crap too. Here is a pretty good site for comparing the LED bulbs. Contains actual measurement results and even detailed reviews for some bulbs. https://bulbfacts.com/led-kits/chart/
  13. While you are checking the plates make sure that the steels are straight and flat. Warped plates can cause all kind issues from slipping to dragging. As far as I know the stack height shouldn't be very critical for stock clutch. As long as it's at right ball park so that the release mechanism can work and you still get enough pressure it should work. Meaning that if you have correct amount of plates and the plates are even remotely within thickness spec it should be good.
  14. There were different values for boosted, NA, street and race. If I recall correctly this 0.4/0.45 was for boosted street. And it was working fine for me.
  15. Usually piston manufacturers give a formula to calculate gaps for different bore sizes. For 78mm Wisecos I used 0.4mm for the top ring and 0.45 for the second.
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