Arttu

Yeah, pretty much like that. I would still change the 1000rpm ignition timing column to 12 and 750rpm to 14. On lambda table you may want slightly richer mixture for the idle area. But that's something what you have to try and see what the engine likes.

Not badly off I would say. For the ignition table I would suggest a couple changes. More timing for off-boost rows, maybe up to 35-36 degrees. Then I would add a column for your target idle rpm, like 1300rpm and set timing there to 10 degrees or so. Them ramp up timing on rpms below that by few degrees. That stabilizes the idle. Also I would reduce timing between 1500-2000rpm. Lambda table looks pretty ok but I would set the off-boost areas above idle somewhat leaner, maybe 0.9-0.95. Basically you want set the cruising areas as lean as you can while still keeping the engine running smoothly.

Yeah, MaxxECU Mini is waterproof. And it's a good choice if you just can live with limited IO. But if you need something bigger then next waterproof option is the Race H2O and while it's an excellent ECU it's often slightly overkill for basic projects and pretty expensive too. Lambda is definitely useful even on the shortest exhausts. It may not read correctly at idle but when you give the engine some load it will start reading fine. Tuning without lambda will be pretty challenging so I highly recommend having one. Apparently none of the "official" MS3 have built-in bluetooth but you can use a RS232-bluetooth adapter for that.

Pretty much as @peter1127said. I haven't used that MS3pro mini but the specs look good and the MS3 software is fine. Pricing is quite ok too. The Microsquirt is also ok for basic projects but it has pretty limited IO and other features. MaxxECUs are really good IMO. But annoyingly their mid-range models aren't waterproof, if you need that.

Generally speaking EFI doesn't make more power than carbs if all other factors are equal. In the best case there might be a small power advantage with it but that isn't guaranteed. But one advantage is that you can size the throttle bodies for maximum peak power and still get good low end torque and throttle response. With carbs there will be more compromises between these. The biggest benerits are ability to tune fueling for all situations with minimal compromises. And with data logging you get much better idea what's actually happening in the engine. And if you add turbo/supercharching or NOS in the picture these benefits get even more significant. Regarding costs here is cost breakdown for one turbo EFI installation: For N/A engine you can maybe make it slightly cheaper since you can use injectors, fuel pump and pressure regulator from some donor bike. Also there are somewhat cheaper ECU options too is you are aiming for lowest possible budget. But getting below 1000 €/£/$ will be challenging without major compromises.

No such things in the EFE engines...

Here's a poor one but maybe it gives some idea. The sensor reads intake cam lobe. It works but it's quite picky about correct sensor-lobe gap. So if I had to do this again I would use a threaded Cherry/ZF hall sensor so that sensor depth could be adjusted easily. And as @Gixer1460mentioned I can supply a crank sensor kit that fits also on the GS1000, if needed.

-Search "injector calculator" with google. Try few different ones to get an idea about required injector size for your power target. But roughly you will need 4 x 300cc/min injectors for 200hp on gasoline, at minimum. You can have quite much extra reserve on the injectors without any serious drawbacks. For example 500cc/min injectors should still work just fine on a 1000cc engine. -Crankshaft trigger alone will work fine for basic builds. You have to run batch / semi-sequential injection and wasted spark ignition with that but usually that won't cause any noticeable difference in performance. -Usually there aren't too many "drop-in" replacement injectors for bike throttle bodies. But there will be plenty of ones that will fit with small modifications, spacing the fuel rail, changing the o-ring sizes and so on. Some leg work will be needed to find suitable options. New injectors (Bosch etc.) are quite reasonably priced so in my opinion it rarely makes sense to try hunt used injectors from some specific car/bike but sometimes that can be a good option too. -With EFI there isn't much penalty from using too big throttle bodies so you can select the size more freely than with the carbs. -Naturally you must have a MAP sensor that has suitable range for your max boost. Usually the ECU will scale the fuel output automatically within boos but in addition you can have a table which can be used to tune this. There are several different ways to configure the fueling model and naturally these vary more or less between different ECUs.

There is no any bypass for the oil cooler, except that small hole/notch on the filter cover. If we are still talking about an EFE engine, or older GSX1100 with an EFE filter cover. So if you add a thermostat on the system it must have a bypass channel. Actually you could use a thermostat that just opens the bypass when the oil is too cold. The cooler circuit can stay open all the time. I have done it that way on my GSX and it seems to work pretty well.

Not sure if it makes sense to continue this conversation... But let's try. We can leave field controlled alternators and their regulators out of this discussion as obviously you can't use a field regulator with permanent magnet alternator. As you said output power of a permanent magnet alternator depends on rpm. Power is voltage * current so for the same power you can have more voltage and less current or vice versa. A shunt regulator regulates voltage by increasing current by shunting it to the ground if the voltage tries to rise too high. So basically it keeps the alternator at full load all the time. A series regulator works differently. It controls current going from the alternator to the bike system. If the charging voltage is too low it passes more current through and if voltage is too high it reduces the current. Load of the alternator varies depending on real consumption and voltage on alternator output can rise very high if the load is smaller than alternator output capacity. This kind series regulators are much less common on bikes but they exist.

Not correct. A shunt type regulator works by loading the alternator and keeping the voltage in the limits that way. A series regulator regulates voltage by controlling current going through it. So basically a shunt regulator keeps the alternator at full load all the time while a series regulator takes only what is needed to supply the loads on the bike. Shindengen makes both types and they both can be used with permanent magnet alternators.

It wasn't my bike in the original question. But I have gone through this excercise with my air cooled GSX too. Yes, you can swap the oil pump gears for more flow but that doesn't help much with pressure. It still drops below 0.5 bar when oil is hot. The next trick is to make an oil take-off plug that restricts flow to the engine and increases pressure for the turbo. This way you can get enough pressure for a journal bearing turbo and I was using this combo for several years without major problems. But it's quite annoying balancing to get the restrictor size right and still the oil pressure varies a lot depending on oil temp and rpm. So while you can make a journal bearing turbo work using a ball bearing one just makes life much easier...

On roller bearing engines that can supply less than 0.5 bar oil pressure for the turbo?

What was the question? Series regulator helps stator life if you have clearly less consumption than what the generator can produce. If you are consuming close to the full capacity of the generator all the time regulator type doesn't make much difference. As @Gixer1460suggested one good alternative is to look for used OEM series regulators. There are few different series regulator models made by Shindengen used on some Yamahas and other bikes. Unfortunately these seem to be quite sought after so the prices can be relatively high. Be aware of cheap copies which are plentiful on the market! Shindengen shunt type MOSFET requlators are very reliable too and usually much cheaper on the second hand market.

Yeah, I guess that's pretty much best option in reality. Only problem is that it doesn't conduct heat very well, if I recall correctly.