Arttu

Yes, the Microsquirt can't do closed loop pump control. Also I think this would require a turbine type pump to work properly since "normal" roller cell type pumps don't handle low flow conditions too well. I think your best choice is to use an external regulator and add a return to the tank. Technically you could use also in-tank regulator without boost reference but this results some problems with effective injection pressure if you are going to use any significant boost.

A 150lph pump is just enough to supply 4 x 60 lbs injectors, at nominal (3 bar?) pressure. Under boost and at higher pressure the flow will drop so probably you will max out the pump before the injectors. Most likely it will be ok unless you are going to push the injectors to the limit (+300hp) but personally I would select something with a bit more margin. Walbro makes quite compact in-tank pumps up to 255lph (GSS340 / GSS341 / GSS342). If you have the regulator in the tank how you are going to supply boost reference for it?

No problems. Just keep in mind it was only an educated guess, not proven fact

Hmm, I would guess that engine combo could output slightly over 300hp at 18psi. That's still quite far from maximum capacity of the GTX2860R so even the smallest exhaust housing shouldn't be huge restriction. Most likely bigger housings will produce slightly more power at the same boost but probably the difference won't be dramatic at that power / boost level.

I highly doubt that anyone can provide you a direct comparison between those two turbine housings. At least not on similar engine setup than yours. On general level I can tell you that smaller one will spool up earlier and also make less power when pushed to the limits due to higher exhaust pressure But to get somewhere please tell a bit more about your setup? What engine, how much boost or power you are planning to use? With that info we can maybe make some educated guesses if the smaller housing will be an issue.

Like @dupersuncsaid. I guess you are reaching the point where it starts to get tricky to improve with carbs. For sure it's possible but probably would need experimenting with different needle shapes and all that kind tricks. I would try smaller mains to get WOT around 13:1 and then see if you can still improve cruising areas with needle heights.

On my turbo GSX, about 300hp, I have been using pretty light weights. Usually just a bolt and nut on each arm combined with stock clutch springs. This has been working fine for years, on the road and for dyno sessions. But just recently I started to get some slipping every now and then. As quick fix I tried adding another nut on each arm but this helped just little. So apparently I have something else wrong with the clutch now... Based on my experince clutches on turbo engines are a bit like black magic. If everything is done right and in good condition it can hold pretty serious power without any too dramatic tricks. But even smallest details can screw up everything and then it will slip or drag or whatever no matter what you do, until you find the actual problem.

Regarding resistors. A rule of thumb is that you should have some resistance somewhere between the coil and plug tip. Either in wire, plug cap or plug. Exact value isn't that critical in most cases, something in range of 1-10 kilo-Ohms should work reasonably well. Too low value will cause interference with other electronic devices, in worst case with bike's own electronics. Too high value will weaken the spark. In practice this means one resistive element in high voltage path. Combining two, like plug and cap, usually results slightly too high total resistance. So with resistor caps it's better to use plugs without resistors. And vice versa.

Ok, then it's more than likely an auto box. In case if you aren't familiar with the concept... The gear dogs are shaped so that positive torque holds the gear in and negative forces the gear out. On upshift the higher gear is engaged while the lower gear is stil in. When the higher gear starts to drive the shaft the lower one is forced out since the shaft spins faster than the gear. So there is no need to cut power during shifting and this results continuous acceleration. Downside is that you can't do any engine braking on the auto gears since it would force the gear out while the shift fork is trying to hold it in.

Looks like it could be an auto gearbox (for drag race use). Should this be in some other section than projects?

550cc/min should be enough for something between slightly over 300hp and 400hp. Depending on efficiency of the engine and some other variables.

On that short pipe it probably doesn't matter much where you place it. I would put it a bit further away from the turbo, about in the middle of the pipe. And preferably above horizontal centerline, just to prevent condensation water getting on the sensor.

I haven't noticed any problems with the return side. Although carb setups can be more sensitive for even small pressure increase caused by restriction. Pump intake side has been the most sensitive part based on my experience. For example I have had some problems with swelling o-rings on the couplers that adds restriction. That will cause cavitation on the pump pretty easily and then you get all kind weird fuel pressure problems.

AEM X-series has been working fine on a couple of bikes that I have been tuning. I would say it's probably the best option that I can personally recommend at the moment. Spartan 2 form 14point7.com is another good option if you want to save some pennies. Ideally the sensor should be at some distance away from outlet of the exhaust to avoid fresh air contamination. But in practice even short dump pipes seem to work quite fine on turbo engines. There might be some misreading at idle but at any higher rpm it's usually fine. N/A engines are more tricky since there is more pulsing on the exhaust flow that tends to pull fresh air in the exhaust.

No if you size them correctly These have been fine for 250 lph pump and over 300hp. Probably they already cause some noticeable restriction, especially on pump intake side. So for any larger pump I would recommend some better flowing couplings. As usual, doing your home work before building or buying parts can save you from headaches.

Here's how I have it on my GSX. So the block goes on place of the original petcock, the return goes through the pipe and another connector is outlet.

See pinned topic on top of this section. Also search is your friend

M14x1.5 comes to mind from 1100. And seal washers seem to be 14mm also for 750 based on cms.nl listing.

Basically there are two cases when a top end oiler is needed: You have HD head studs that restrict the oil channels to the head or the oil ways are completely blocked due to big block installation or something similar ("dry blocking"). You have high lift cams with heavier valve springs. In this case increased oil flow can help to keep the rockers alive and cool the valve springs. Otherwise there shouldn't be much need for a top end oiler. Also it's good to keep in mind that altering the oil circulation on these air cooled engines can lead to all kind surprises if you don't really know what you are doing. Some top end oiler kits on the market aren't that well thought out in this sense so just bolting-on something can make more harm than good. If you just want to improve lubrication overall then high volume pump gears are better and safer option IMO.

Oh, really? Have you heard about data logging?

On cruise the engine makes quite little power and therefore also heat so there isn't any need to cool it with rich mixture. Theoretically fuel injected engine could be able to use leaner mixture due to better fuel atomization. But I think difference is minimal at cruise rpm since carbs should do pretty good job there as well. On low rpm difference can be bigger. But what actually makes difference is adjustability. With fuel injection you can adjust fueling quite precisely for every and each operating point of the engine. And that allows tuning to leanest possible mixture on all cruise areas. With carbs the adjustments are always more or less compromise and to avoid hiccups you need to err on rich side.

Yep, pretty much like @Blower1 said. Idle whatever the engine seems to like, usually around 13:1 with these old engines. For cruise you can go as lean as the engine keeps running cleanly. Again, limit seems to be around 14.5:1 based on my experiences. Any leaner will cause misfires, hesitation and surging. For full throttle and N/A engine I would use something like 13-13.5:1.

Length or placement isn't that critical with turbo as turbo kills exhaust pulses quite effectively any ways. What matters is restriction and back pressure. And there less is better at least from performance standpoint. So large bore and no sharp turns is the general guidance. For reference I had an end can with 46mm internal diameter baffle and about 40cm length on roughly 200hp engine. Removing the can made almost 10hp more power and the turbo spooled up earlier.

I have used Athena gaskets few times without any issues. Even head gasket with turbo if I recall correctly. But yes, if you want to be absolutely sure then it's probably safer to use OEM. At least make sure that the base gasket is metal version if it isn't OEM.

There seem to be plenty of variation how sensitive different engines are to ignition timing. I have also seen several turbo engines where even 10 degrees timing change doesn't seem to make any difference to power or torque. On some others you can easily see how 1-2 degrees affect. Deciding optimal timing on those insensitive cases can be slightly problematic. By quick thinking it would look obvious that lowest timing that still produces good power would be the safest. But that isn't necessarily the case. While low timing is safer for cnock it can increase exhaust temps significantly which can then cause other problems. So usually I have used some middle ground figure.