Arttu

That's exactly what I meant. It can work right away if you have a good proven setup, if you are lucky or if you happen to know exactly what you are doing. But it can be be much more difficult as well...

Usually not. It would be relatively complicated and expensive. Also there are some issues with placing the sensors before the turbo like @Gixer1460mentioned. Although it's doable if you really need to. Normal solution is to have a single O2 sensor after the turbo. And if you want to monitor individual cylinders exhaust temp sensors are quite good for that.

Sure it's doable that way too. But if you inject fuel before the turbo your fuel distribution between the cylinders is at mercy of the intake manifold design.

EFI with injectors placed on the intake ports should solve most of the fueling issues with draw through setup. But you will still need a carbon sealed turbo... Regarding original question, I think blow-through is technically better in almost every way. So only reason to select draw-through is that you specifically want it, for example because of style and look.

Suzuki part number 37730-26E20 fits on a B1200 engine so I assume it's 36mm, never measured them. It gives different resistance values for all 5 gears and has separate wire for the neutral contact.

I would first try swapping the injectors to see if it's injector related issue. But yes, it's possible that your fuel rail layout can affect too, especially on idle and low load.

9:1 compression for 15psi on pump gasoline sounds pretty much right. I had earlier 9.5:1 compression up to 18psi or so. Although I had water injection for charge cooling but I tested it also without water injection and didn't notice any problems. Your plan for piston dish looks exactly like what I did on my current JE pistons. I think the button in the middle shouldn't hurt combustion chamber efficiency in any way. If I recall correclty the crown in the middle was only 4.5mm thick. It has been fine but I wouldn't like to try any thinner. Ideally you would like to make the dish the same shape than the combustion chamber but that's difficult to make without CNC milling...

Sounds like the wastegate is opening already at 10psi and then there is boost creep at higher rpm. A boost controller should help building boost faster. It will help to keep the gate closed until you hit the target. But it can't help with the creep, if the gate can't flow enough to keep the boost down then the controller can't do anything to lower the boost. Any way, if you feel that the turbo is spooling up slower than it should it's good to check carefully all possible exhaust and boost leaks. Especially exhaust leaks will affect a lot on spool-up.

I think your boost drop is actually boost spike It's probably caused by the wastegate actuator in combination with your boost regulator. Maybe the actuator has more volume so when the gate starts to open it needs more air through the regulator before the gate is properly open and that causes delay. And if the actuator has softer spring you need to turn the regulator more close which slows down the reaction too. You can test it without the regulator and see how it works then. Gradual boost building might be just a feature of the turbo but that's hard to say without detailed data. One explanation could be that the VF23 has bigger A/R turbine side. I think my VF34 behaves more or less same way. It starts to build little boost pretty early, slightly above 3000rpm. But it needs quite much more rpms to reach full boost, over 5000rpm for 1 bar. So there isn't any violent kick at any point, it just pushes harder and harder as the revs rise.

A couple of notes: -24VAC from the generator wires sounds low. Usually the spec is something like over 50VAC @ 5000rpm. It might be a good idea to verify this. -If the battery voltage is always over 13V when the engine is running you can't drain the battery empty while riding. So apparently voltage drops lower at some conditions.

Sensitive topic, oil discussions may get pretty long and heated Maybe even the Rules mention something about them... Yes, synthetic oils can improve lifetime of the turbo, especially if you use longer oil change intervals or run it hot regularly. On the other hand many people claim that the clutch won't work well with synthetic oils or they are generally bad for old bike engines. Personally I haven't noticed these problems nor see any technical basis for them. Assuming that you use oils that are suitable for wet clutches (JASO MA classification). Car oils, esepecially "energy conserving" ones might be a different story.

MTC seems to have 81mm turbo pistons with advertised 10:1 compression. Maybe that could be lowered enough by machining some dish on the piston and increasing the squish to upper end of working range? Busa pistons could be one option too. If I recall correctly what others have told here stock Busa pistons in oil cooled engine result about 9.5 compression when the deck height is adjusted to minimum. So turbo pistons could end to that 8-8.5 range, maybe.

In the video he mentioned the headlight with cowl, tail light and engine cases. Apparently minus the cases now... The frame was also "technically stock with some modifications"

And the head nuts are M10x1.25.

I have currently about 11:1 compression ratio on my air cooled GSX. I have boosted it up to 1.2 bar on E85 without issues. I have water injection for charge cooling but I have run it also without water on dyno and haven't noticed any issues. So it's more for peace of mind I would say. I have also full flex fuel setup but I haven't run this engine version on gasoline yet. Before the latest engine rebuild the compression was about 10.5:1 and that I run on gasoline too. Boost on gasoline was limited to 0.5-0.6, lowest that my internal waste gate allows. So in your case I would probably aim for 9.5-10:1 compression. That should allow moderate boost on gasoline, especially if you use charge cooling. And on E85 it should be good for over 1.5 bar.

Exactly. I think the biggest difference compared to western manufacturers is that many Chinese companies will happily make shit if someone wants to buy it. More established companies usually refuse to do that to protect their reputation.

Hmm... Just for reference, if we see US prices for Busa rods: CP-Carrillo - $1150-1430, Wossner - $900, Maxpeeding - $480. So about 2-3x difference. I can imagine getting some decent quality with that money if it's manufactured in cheaper location and some of marketing and profit overhead is cut away. In comparison Maxpeeding turbos start from $100 which is about 10x difference to genuine stuff so I highly doubt you can get anything decent for that cheap... But naturally everyone must do their own choices and select what kind risks they want to take with their money. And I completely agree that risking with connecting rods is, well, risky. However, I know that these Maxpeeding rods have been used a lot also on pretty high power bikes and I haven't heard about problems any more than with brand name ones. So I think in this case the risk is fairly low.

I have also heard that Maxpeeding turbos are crap. And they are so cheap that they just can't be good. Their rods aren't that cheap in comparison.

I guess that's just copy-paste from some car rod description. Those rpm / power ratings for the rods are a bit funny in general too. There are so many variables affecting on what the rods can take so it's impossible to tell such limits for the rod itself...

I have used Athena gasket sets few times. No complaints about quality.

I'm not an expert on carb tuning but I recall that usually you can't find OEM stock needles from any public needle charts. Apparently they are custom made for manufacturers. So this means that comparing the stock needles to aftemarket ones can be slightly challenging... Maybe you can try to measure the ones that you have now and find the closest match from published charts. After that you can use the charts to find suitable tuning options.

As above, I think you won't find that info anywhere... By measuring them you will at least know if the change would be in the right direction or not.

Can't help with numbers or needle charts. But can't you just measure both needles and compare them to see what kind change the alternative one would give?

I think gen1 Hayabusa has about 11:1 compression ratio. But what's the point of your question? When you fit the Busa pistons into a Bandit engine the resulting compression ratio will be something completely else any ways.

They should be quite good stuff. If you want to be extra sure get the ends measured and use genuine ARP bolts. They claim to have ARP 2000 bolts but I have heard here and there that they are fakes. Not sure what's the truth. This year I have tuned a GSX-R1000 drag bike with those. No problems at 400hp level.