Gixer1460

Unless you have facilities to skim the head, I wouldn't touch the chambers as you will lose CR by doing so. Also if you are using 12:1 pistons the chamber volumes need to be accurately matched - easy to remove metal - tricky to add it back! If you are a 3rd world country what is the quality of your fuel like - not sure 12:1 CR will work too well with piss poor fuel? 30 / 26mm valves can use std. seats. What will the engine be used for as this will affect recommendations as regards porting / guides / valve seats / reliability / longevity / maintenance?

The chassis / engine number will relate to year/month it was built, but it may not have been sold until the next year which is what is noted on the V5! My Daily is on a 52 plate but is actually a 2001 model year.

That doesn't sound very cheap to me! There really isn't much to an anodising process - lots of degreasing / washing / caustic dipping / acid dipping / dyeing / washing etc. Most anodising dyes are 'flat' colours with a satin finish being the most blingy. One thing to note is that you will have to remove EVERY piece / bit of steel from the frame and the arm before as the corrosive chemicals will destroy them!

I read the words which make sense but still doesn't jive with slotting the plate! Having a 'fixed' timing is not unusual - it just infers that it stays at 10 degrees or whatever it's set to and won't be influenced by increased revs, coolant temps or whatever. If it does have a truly fixed timing - what is it ? because if you don't know, you could retard it past TDC! Daft system - supposing the engine idled at 700 rpm - what the hell would it be doing then? Is the system one of these? Just out of interest - http://www.racetechdev.co.uk/products.html - the EMX-01 seems a sophisticated device so the above seems strange!

If you have a mappable ignition . . . . . . . . why are you slotting the pick up plate as that'll change the entire map? Doesn't make sense - just adjust the cells below idle?

That's about right! . . . . . Next!

Never seen a cover like that with a 'bump' to the side - thought all had a central rectangular breather / oil trap with removable cover - learn something new everyday! The Hyvo chain arrangement as only fitted to Blandits? and i'm fairly sure i've swapped GSF 12 covers with GSXR 11 and vice versa so chain shouldn't be a factor or I didn't notice anything and its grinding its way through the cover ! LOL!

Not what you want to hear but the 91 / 92 heads have the best flowing ports as std. Why are you keen to swap?

Still could be a vacuum leak via the inlet rubbers? 4 turns on the mix screws would usually point toward next size required. 7k would be top end of the needle / onto the main jet although if the revs climb then the Mj can't be hugely out but without a wideband its guesswork!

Did the problem switch / follow the coils? If it didn't and you've swapped the ECU then it's either a wire break or a duff 2/3 pick-up!

Not sure where that rumour has come from as pretty much every oil pump using this design, runs steel 'gears' in aluminium housings and they run for years, usually only failing due to 'foreign bodies' going through them. Maybe 'soft' aluminium was used and hence wear occured? I'd be tempted to use HE30 / 6000 series for better machinability?

All this discussed multiple times - use search - read the stuff - then ask your questions ! ! ! Yes i'm a miserable old fucker thats fed up to the back teeth sitting indoors not being able to do anything constructive except read the same questions written by newbies who want instant gratification without doing any research - how do you think people did it 20-25 years ago before the internet? We read books / magazines and just built stuff - sometimes badly and sometimes spectacularly good. The info is out there - just do the research! Rant Over! ps. Use the Blandit engine - life is hard enough, don't make it worse using a GS!

That sequence always seemed odd to me! My sequence (using those numbers) would be, 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 6, 5, 12, 9, 11 & 10. Got nothing against the Suzuki sequence just doesn't seem logical?

I've used std retainers with heavier springs in turbo engines without drama but they aren't high reving. The optional Ti retainers are primarily used in high rpm NA engines where the lightness reduces the chances of valve float IMO. If you are using std. retainers with bigger cams, i'd definitely keep the rpm's under control.

As the OP is a Yankee, it is likely to be '93 so it is neither air cooled nor a Katana !

You guys don't get 'tongue in cheek' comments do you!

Could be if that seat support gives way! LOL!

There was a UK ProMod / Funnybike with a 1800 / 1850 GSX Nitrous set-up - very, VERY spendy when it went wrong - 90+mm pistons I believe?

Yeah - there you go! You lost me at 'First' !

Ah yes - Sorry I didn't consider the old style outputs from the Motec as everything now outputs a ground signal. If I was smarter i'm sure a simple circuit could be designed / constructed to do the flip-flop change. Query do you think a solid state relay could be used to do the change over ? ? ?

Easy - mine came with a connector but sure they are available separately - its 7 pins, but you only use 5 ! - see the picture!

The engine doesn't care what ohmage the coils are but your std ignition drivers might due to the current they are asked to shift! Best to use a Dyna2000 or save some money and use a two channel ignition amp like a Bosch 0227 100 200 - https://www.Eblag.co.uk/i/293206194762?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=293206194762&targetid=877514743599&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045747&poi=&campaignid=9437741753&mkgroupid=97371651778&rlsatarget=pla-877514743599&abcId=1140496&merchantid=189184776&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgo-5vprK6AIViLHtCh145QwREAQYAiABEgLssPD_BwE I used one of these with green coils on the turbo only as the Motec didn't have onboard ign. drivers. This goes between std. ign box and the coils.

Any electrical switch / device - switch on = 1, switch off = 0 and can't get anymore digital / binary than that! All FI before that was mechanical. ps - don't believe all you read LOL!

So the Kawa Z1000H, 'Onda CX650 and the Yam 650 turbo as well I think, don't count - all about the same time?

Different question - squish could be fine but still get piston to valve contact - depends on cut outs and valve timing. Plasticine and dry build best way forward.