arit

Cheers mate, Its the one in the pic attached - silver sleeve. Also whats the brass one to the left? does it come out or is it pressed in? also I have heard 1/2 turn for the airscrew from factory and 1 1/2 and also 2 - 2 1/2 quite a range. Mine was set at almost 4 from PO but I suspect because of an overall lean condition which I'm trying to solve

cheers guys, also was looking at the gsxrblog carb rebuild and noticed there is an aluminium sleeve that goes over the pilot jets. Mine doesn't have these? Are they critical or necessary?

will do, whatever is causing the lean condition its across all cylinders. All the plugs are light grey

I have just stripped cleaned inspected carbs. The bike is bone stock (airfilter exhaust carb settings etc) but it was running super lean, hesitated around 7000roms before clearing and had to run pilot screws at 4 turns out for it to run ok down low - was popping etc... Thought it might have been crud in carbs so cleaned them all out. Wasn't too bad but won't know until back on the bike. Everything is standard jet sizes 97.5 and needles @ position 3 as per factory setting. My question is would it be smart to raise the needles one notch? also anything else I should be checking that would cause a lean condition? cheers ari

Hi all, Looking to rebuild mine and missing a vacuum air screw. Can't seem to find one via most of the sellers out there ie wemoto etc... are these screws along with other items ie float bowl drain screws the same as other mikuni models?

thx mate, its leaning out a lot so was thinking a vacuum leak. Have to wind the mixtures screws out 4 turns for it to idle nice and its hesitates when it hits about 7000rpms then starts to clear and climbs up to redline

anyone have a diagram or can outline how the vacuum setup from the tank works 1985 gsxr750 with factory vm29's Has 3 hoses from fuel tank 1 gas + 2 others one from fuel gauge sender and another under the tank, where do they link up to? cheers

Fixed! simple solution...only works for R/H side. Put steering lock on with key. Placed a rubber hose over the steering lock shaft and boom! works a treat

my r/h steering stop fell off today. it was cracked and just gave up the ghost. Whats the best way to repair? I could put a nylon stop on the frame, concerned welding might do more damage than good?

thx mate, yes I think I'll have to take the carbs off - clean/inspect

worth noting the bike is totally stock airbox/exhaust etc...

they were wound out prob 4ish turns poss more. The reason I starting playing with the screws is it was stumbling/hesitating around 7-8000rpms and not revving cleanly to redline. With the screws at 1/2 turn it coughs and splutters down low. I'm now at 2 turns out and running better although idles high and slow to return to idle when revved

setting my pilot screws and noted they were wound out quite a bit. Seems to be some discrepancy around what the right number of turns are? 1/2 or 1 1/2 turns? also the factory setting says 1/2 turn back? does this mean wind screws out fully then turn back 1/2 or wind in fully and 1/2 out? I should note this bike is a Japanese domestic model so potentially different settings to UK/Euro etc?