Gixer1460

Most CV carbs work via airflow and will have drillings from the mouth into the chamber over the diaphragm. As air speed increases over / through the venturi, its pressure drops - this lower pressure (if it drops below atmospheric pressure its termed a vacuum) will draw the slide up thus giving more fuel. Even if pressurised air is pushed through the venturi, its pressure still drops so the slide lifts. The pitot should be located and sized to feed a slightly higher pressure air to the fuel bowl so that the boost pressure over the fuel jets isn't more than in the bowl so fuel can still flow. Fuel pressure coming into the bowl needs a psi or so higher than any boost pressure and to follow it hence the use of boost referenced fuel pressure regulators. Single cylinder engines aren't really suited to turbocharging - one slug of exhaust every two revs as opposed to a 4 or 8 cylinder with a slug every 180 degrees of rotation, It'd need a pretty small turbocharger i'm guessing? I've seen a 'onda C50 turbo'd but more of an engineering exercise than a practical useful bike LOL!

Not sure how you have installed the pitot? Blow thro carbs should need little modification to work with a turbo - so something ain't right.

Definitely outside the box thinking here and skills to match!

Unsealed? Looks like it - maybe not so wise with blown application . . . doesn't much matter when NA.

mk1 or mk2 bus pistons ? as you may have just wasted $70!

Three pin relay is pretty simple device - the two pins that have continuity when 'cold' / unconnected to anything will be 12v in and ground on other side. The remaining pin will go to 12v on and off and should go to the indicator switch to divert the switching volts to the left or right indicators. They are usually robust but nothing lives forever!

Someone gets it!

We tune to make more power which will, unless the gearing is changed, will just get to the same speed, faster or pull more revs to go faster. Tacho's are notoriously inaccurate - especially Suzuki's - up to 1000 revs !!!

Engine mods won't affect speed other than pulling taller gears. Tyre dia may have an effect!

And its a Hippo - fast isn't in its nature LOL!

A m8 with a mag4, similar problem - ended up cutting the offending tube out and remaking it with space!

Hasn't been around for well over a year so you may never get a response! Reading through the whole thread I would have said piston slap - I had a 1186 kit that slapped more than I liked after just 6000 miles so its not an impossible diagnosis!

They are bike specific but you'd really be pushed to notice any difference they make in real world conditions!

Just look how the power climbs - little bit faster than the front wheel heading skywards!

Strange place for damage if it is damaged - looks like Isopon glass fibre resin!

Apologies for getting some of the colours wrong - i'm used to 1100's LOL!

There should never be voltage measured anywhere on the crank signal generator unless the engine is turning - it self generates millivolts level signal. From memory and never used a M-Unit (but I assume it has a dedicated Ign output?) goes like this . . . . . M-Unit Ign output (12v) goes to 750 ICM / ECU / CDI (whatever you want to call it) orange/white wire AND the coil low tension terminals + side. (its a switched live) M-Unit must have an earth to battery and chassis - Suzuki colour Black/white. The CDI also requires ground - Black/white. From CDI there are two output wires - White and a Black/Yellow, each goes to a coil - (I think White is 1/4 and B/Y is 2/3? . . . . 50% chance of being right LOL) From crank signal generator there are two wires - Blue and Yellow. These connect to CDI input side which should be Blue & Yellow!. There is one last wire from CDI - Red/Black - this is the tacho signal and runs to the rev counter input. Connected as above - you should have sparks and engine will run (with other variables supplied & coils - connected right way round LOL)

I have no particular preference as if I have a two outlet tap and only one line to carbs, I just block the spare or convert carbs to have two separate feeds. If you are handy with tools, a tank adapter block and an in-line, ball valve tap could save a chunk of money?

I understood a pitot opening should face into the airflow, so if the air is entering the tube from the left in 1st pic this would give the best signal - square or slash cut end makes little difference. The 2nd one marginally worse but slash cut into airflow can't be achieved, a bend would help. 3rd and 4th I think will suck air (vacuum) rather than get pressurised - similar to a jet in a venturi . Positioned in centre of the up-tube gets straightest / fastest / less turbulent air which is good but it could be at the edge but with slightly slower air due to friction / turbulence. BTW pitot's on planes used to read airspeed, usually face forward.

Dual pods - yes, Individual pods - no! And with stock carbs - usually a DJ kit (or others are available but i've not used them) works mint! Don't ask me why, its just fact. Many have tried 4 singles with varying results usually unsatisfactory!

Broken cable.

A picture of a mythical object LOL! If my counting teeth is about right, I get 39 / 27 ratio ? against a 750 ratio of 38 / 29. If so, the oil pump should spin about 10% faster? Will it make 10% more pressure ? 10% more of knob all is still knob all LOL!

Not quite true - cams are all plain bearings and are furthest away from pump plus those running turbo's which have plain bearings need approx 25-30psi minimum for any sort of life! We've all seen cam bearings wiped out through low / no oil! Its one of the reasons drag racers used to block off oil feed to gearbox, just to get that little bit more to the engine - gearbox happy with splash lubrication.

Looks like a 'Highpower' kit - I think they are still trading, Doncaster way I believe? . . . . . https://noswizard.com/contacts

Really, the 'prime' position isn't meant for running the engine although people do - its purpose / action is, to lift the diaphragm marginally to fill the float bowls on empty carbs - after a rebuild or after running out of fuel. The gap isn't designed for long term, full power fuel flow! Adding a fuel pump would mask a problem, not improve it as the pump will try to draw more fuel than the tap can deliver in 'prime' position. A Pingle tap (for instance) has a single in-tank delivery pipe with a 6mm bore - doesn't make any difference if tap has 1, 2 or 3 outlets - it has one 6mm bore pipe from tank . . . . and that is enough for over 350+ turbo EFI hp ! The float valves in the carbs, at the needle valve, have a 1.5mm ? opening which across 4 carbs = 28.26 sq mm (approx) and a Pingle has a pipe bore area of 113.04 sq mm. Your 10mm tank outlet has an area of 314 sq mm. So, the tank outlet is 11 times larger than the carbs can utilise, but its size reduces the potential flow restriction and increasing the pressure seen at the float jets - its a miniscule increase but maybe enough to tip over the edge?