Gixer1460

That's what I keep mentioning to SWMBO

It went 10.5 flat @ 141 and got runner up at a Straightliners event with my lardy arse on board - you being a featherweight should crack serious 9's with the 'big boys' turbo!

Yes its a pain in the arse but you have to build it up before you find it's wrong - not having the tensioner in place allows slack in the chain runs. If you find its a tooth out - mark it with Tipex chain and gear, carefully loosen the caps off and move the chain to correct the 1-4 mark, replace caps and check again - obvs checking the right number of pins between marks on the cams!

For a GS750 I don't believe there will be options - OEM only ...... if you can get them!

More than likely a notchy basket / hub especially if original ! If they are, then you could try redressing the faces - but it rarely works for more than a few months, replacement is the only cure (if it is that!)

You won't - Carrillo or Falicon are the rods of choice - if if budget is a strong motivation the Chinese Maxspeeding Rods are maybe an option! Although 250hp should be ok with stock rods

You want to get a sense of humour - deleting posts tut tut tut!

Depends on the power - rods are not a bad upgrade.

I'm guessing someone has fitted an 1100 system cos it fitted! If you want to keep the fairing then you need a 750 system - wrapped pipes will still melt / burn plastics - they still get f**kin hot, just not as hot as before! Respaced GSXR1000 K3 headers maybe a tighter fit but from the collector back is DIY territory!

The primary gear is riveted to the back of the basket - a rattle gun usually shifts the holding nut. Careful taking this off and putting it back as the oil pump gear is on the back, get it misaligned and you can snap the gear - not good!

From many threads on here over the years, many have tried to make std needles and jets work - some have managed it, most have got a 'form' of acceptable and a lot haven't - the DJ kits are expensive but they've done the leg work for you and generally they are fit and start - they do work with recommended settings straight out of the box, needing little dyno work to finesse the settings. Going standard takes shed loads of time, carbs on and off and / or dyno time - do you enjoy riding or fiddling? I'm not saying you MUST use DJ kit but for your sanity it makes sense!

We can't help it if Suzuki fitting the wrong carbs LOL!

Would tend to agree - 136's worked for me with a 1186 kit and a V&H Supersport pipe whilst a mate needed 144's on a bone stock 1100L with a Devil pipe - we dyno'd both bikes on the same dyno, on the same day. Airflow through seemingly similar engines have big effects on jet sizes.

That was fairly predictable - stayed for 6 days - last seen in 2018 ! ! !

Is it a parallel twin or a 180 deg. twin? Sounds like its 180 degrees out hence backfires - try swapping the low tension coil connections - assuming it has two coils? Of course Blandit 600 carbs maybe too big for a little 250 twin which won't help!

Absolutely! Now read your manual and do it properly !

That would be good - wider than mine = bigger surface area = better cooling. Search out the Mocal oil cooling info on the Think Automotive website - lots of useful info there which should answer some of your queries. https://www.thinkauto.com

Air or oil cooled? No turbo bike has ever suffered with a big cooler (if the engine is making the heat!) Mocal or Setrab have a good rep - Chinese copies will be a lot cheaper. Dash 8 / 1/2" or Dash 10 5/8" fittings - bigger = less restriction. I didn't increase my 250mm width 19 row used with a 1100 GSXR when I added a turbo, but it did get hot during summer stops - best to keep moving or stop engine at traffic lights etc.

I think the USA got shims, a model year earlier than us in Euro land ie 'L' models were shims and their 'N' models had water cooling.

Fuck me that's changed a bit ! ! ! I can't believe it went to you 5 years ago - as you say - time flies! What happened to the old Blow thro stuff, as if you still have it, i'd buy it back, then I could progress the new tech suck through? I'm glad it's still giving the thrill you had when you picked it up.

I think they are the same - could check part numbers but they still could be the same even with different numbers ! Soak any fixings with WD40 / Penetrating oil before trying to undo anything as steel bolts into alloy will always pose problems - don't rush and don't reach for the hammers ! You will lose some oil (obvs) so be prepared so top up sump if a bottom fed cooler after fitting or fill a top fed cooler before spinning engine over without the plugs in - just makes sure everything is getting oil without load.

OSS Recycling - saving the planet one bit at a time!

Radiator refurbisher could do it but they bloody hate oil coolers as the oil contaminates any welding / brazing / soldering. Maybe cheaper / easier to source secondhand !

Fairly unlikely - the burnt in curves are probably within a degree or two of each other and unless you are using it with a 1127 and 40mm CV's and a 4-2-2 exhaust, it won't be correct anyway!

Stop asking the same bloody question ! ! ! And 98 octane is borderline for use with 12:1 everyday!