Gixer1460

A single warning light has to be wired to the flasher relay before its output is routed to the direction switch which then routes it left or right - the two sides should never connect unless if fitted with a hazard light system. A dual warning light can be wired to each side after the relay as they are independent.

It is unlikely but it could be a faulty coil or a failing / failed plug wire - never say never! But a swap of 1 & 4 is still a good check!

What do you regard as 'big bore'? At 1.2bar boost you could still use Busa rods or GSXR (although they maybe marginal - most are good to about 280hp) Most H beam rods will need some degree of clearancing / case grinding. My 1460 GSXR is using a shim head - i've no worries about it! Shims are only problematic with high revs and buzzing the engine - mine makes peak power at about sub 9k rpm currently. For intercooler go bespoke - try these guys . . . . https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0066/8840/7655/files/brochure_2019.pdf?v=1599647498 Don't need 40mm carbs - they are a PITA to set up normally - use 36mm, easier to get right and find - just need a GOOD set! Dyna2000 works but there are better boxes, this seems to have a good rep on here - https://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/tcip/tcip.htm Most Turbos like 'soft' cams ie good lift but short duration - if you have 'M' cams you are pretty much stuck with those as variations are thin on the ground - I had billet ones ground for mine to suit the application!

So the nurdy types and anal retentives would say but look at Dyna coils through the ages, no + or - on them and i've connected loads and never worried what goes where - It makes 2/10th difference to FA!

Fuck - that is so far 'out of left field' for a diagnosis i'd be worried if it were so! The carbs are rubber mounted back and front and so isolated from any frame flex and if the engine was flexing enough to cause a leak at the head / carb junction then the crank would bind long before ! Back to head scratching!

Don't get me wrong - I love Nitrous! But just not for this application. When your paying for stuff, melting pistons and bending valves / dropping heads, it can get old, very quickly but my god the hit with gas is electric LOL!

Don't do it ! Having raced with nitrous and around ProMod bikes running nitrous it is the most unpredictable performance enhancer available bar none! Many have tries with varying success using a 'little wake-up' shot of gas to get a low end boost. NOS MUST BE USED WOT - if not you risk real damage! Whoever said it has cooling effects is mad - it may have a small inlet cooling effect but its use produces stupid quantities of heat and get it wrong - component melting qualities! And the elephant in the room is . . . . . . . it always runs out! A 1lb bottle will give maybe 20 - 30 seconds @ 60hp hit, or maybe a minute @ 30hp hit. This is the quandary with turbo's, they suffer low down if you want a good top end. You either get a smaller turbo to boost earlier, and add water injection and intercooling to reduce max boost temps so reducing top end boost loss or drop a few teeth and live with the reduced top end. Sophisticated EFI / ECU's can help by adding fuel and retarding timing low down to build boost artificially but its the nature of the beast - you can't have everything!

Answers in RED

Isn't that a car plug size? I always thought they were M12 !

For all the aggro, cussing and swearing, you may as well yank the whole engine, then more space and less chance of dropping shit down the chain tunnel. Couple of mates + beer (after its out) = easy job!

Its not an old skool 'trick' - everyone that knows, knows they are 750 gears - they are the ONLY high volume gear set!

For reference i'll correct that statement. As most S/C installs are draw through ie. carb is upstream of the S/C the fuel pump doesn't need to be boost compensated so a psi or so base pressure is fine and a flow volume to match power output will be sufficient. An efi pump maybe overkill, a racing Facet type probably ok!

No ! Head design is completely different - Blandit has screw adjusted valves, 92 GSXR has shims.

Unlikely! More likely increasing load via higher gears needing more fuel that isn't being supplied by the pump due to the low volts issues? No one said turbo bikes are easy!

If you are handy with a soldering iron, a megasquirt or a Speeduino DIY kit is a cheap option for a EFI controller including ignition control. A few on here are using Megasquirt so there is a knowledge base - being careful with the pennies i'd guess a working system could be done for 300 - 350 £ or $ - certainly cheaper than a good set of used RS flatslides !

Blandits usually have a fairly good output from their alternators ie. capacity for running a fuel pump, and some. Batteries do go bad but if output voltage is anything other than 13.7 - 14.4 at 2k+ rpm, i'd say the R/R is goosed!

Joking aside - EFI for all its complexity is Soooooo much easier to work with on boosted engines - I wouldn't swap back ever!

Idle pressure can be whatever the carbs can tolerate without overflowing!. 1 - 2psi is reckoned to be about right to obviate vagaries of gravity / atmospheric pressure delivery. Takes a good gauge to read accurately at very low pressures.

Usually by inserting Tungsten plugs - easier to lose opposite weight though! Thought about the clutch balancing but maybe as it spins opposite to the crank it works like a damper? Never aware of one being balanced!

A boost gauge on the plenum is fine - that's where most are fed from! If the gauge doesn't read, its either not working or no making boost! Is the oil drain above the running oil level? Any crankcase compression from boost will find leaks and really a welded fitting is better than a tapped and siliconed wanky joint! Your electrics seem to need attention - a switch is either on or off, wire it properly LOL!

Unusual to have a 4-2-1 configuration on a Bandit and they don't fit the sump ! More likely GSXR? Maker? - not a scooby doo.

No cooling ports - solid billet block but the fin area compared to a std GSXR and even a Gorilla Big Block is substantially increased. more comparable to an aircooled engine. No tuned GSXR likes sitting still - this one is no different in that respect, but with airflow the repositioned and fanned stock cooler keeps pace.

Oh yeah - a virtual necessity if the ECU is controlling it!

370 rwhp and don't really know - its been parked since 2005 awaiting some revisions and upgrades LOL! - No rush to die is there!

Part of Turbo Install juggling act! I still use an internal gate on mine which has some hybrid TD04/05 but it was hung first then everything built around it to suit - might have a piccy . .. . . . . Sorry doesn't show much!