Gixer1460

I thought they relied on the CAN bus for info input - normally from the ECU. Maybe the 600 had that functionality?

Might be tricky running a Motec dash without a Motec ECU to drive it ? Lose the tractor carb, fit a big throttle body, add some big injectors into the plenum then fit a Motec ECU - welcome to the 21st century LOL!

What's wrong with the ones you've already got? Boosted engines work well enough with stock cams until you start really upping the boost - probably any cam will work ok if sub 1 bar boost. There isn't a huge difference between F cams / GSXR cams and GSF cams in terms of lift & duration.

I'm not giving tuning advice, but i'd give it a go! It's not rocket science to swap them out if you don't like! The 34's may give a better 'pull'

A bigger engine will work nicer with 'bigger' cams - all can be calmed down with sub optimal head / carbs. You can have the biggest cams in the world but without the airflow they won't perform anywhere near as good as stockers!

Possibly early GSX11 - ET etc. maybe a regrind? 1075 and 1135 cams are interchangable.

I think you've misplaced the decimal point placement! - at 3.6mm ring gap you'd have no compression to speak of! Rule of thumb - 0.004 - 0.005" per 1" of bore dia . . . . . so for 78mm, call it 75mm or 3" = 0.004 x 3 or 0.005 x 3 = 0.012 / 0.015" respectively which equates to - 25.4mm / 1000 = 0.0254" x 12 or 0.0254 x 15 = 0.3048mm / 0.381mm The above is usual for Normal Aspiration - Forced Induction can afford to go a little looser but you will get more blow by so 'swings and roundabouts' !

Not sure what you are trying to say in the lower bit? If you block the compressor discharge, you effectively stall the compressor and by connection the turbine which produces large backpressure hence why engine stalls. 'Blowing into the plenum' - how? Via the charge pipe or the WG pressure line? There is no physical air pathway between the hot side and the cold side unless it circumvented multiple seals and bearings through the core! In lower gears, engine acceleration can be fast enough that next gear is required before desired boost is reached - this is the balancing act between turbo sizing / boost required / turbo response / power output required / V max required. There is never one solution that satisfies everything!

You've always been able to do that, it's just the site had a size limitation that meant 'hosted' pictures could be larger. Now the site is self hosted the limitation is no more but big files still eat into storage and bandwidth so if adding pics - don't take the piss with 10+Mb images LOL!

Could have a short chain is an option I guess! I've made longer chains before so shortened isn't a big deal.

That's an interesting point - a M8 rebuilt his Bindit ( he sold you the Harris F1 ) with a GSXR crank so obvs needed a std roller chain but i'm fairly sure he didn't change the cam cover or add extra's into the head! I'm interested now to find out what's under the cover in that engine LOL!

I may be old and stupid ( some say definitely) but looking at that picture - and assuming the circuit on the left is the pilot / low running circuit) how and where is that connected to / influenced by, the Main Jet apart from they share the same float bowl? You can remove or can block a MJ on most carbs and the engine will still idle - how, if interconnected?

Any fueling that is on the needle or WOT will be determined by the MJ.

Not arguing but that sounds long to me! It literally just has to unload the gears to allow the shift - I know its not the same but airshifters work with about a 45-60ms kill time and I didn't have much more with a foot activated QS! A long kill won't hurt anything, just makes for a jerky shift when it should be 'seamless'.

Its almost forcing dual front disc's on riders by stealth! For info, a 2008 on Busa has a 260mm disc that may fit even if holes require re-drilling?

Its a GSX1100 so why not start with a richened up 1100 jetting to start - 4.5 out on mixture screw is waaay to far. ^^^ above doesn't sound a mile off?

I used to use EBC 'Green' pads all the time, then they changed the formulation and weren't the same, so I swapped back to OEM which cost about or a bit more but last better! I see Alphasports list EBC Organic pads as an OEM replacement on some of the GS1000 models and EBC do say their Organics are a direct OEM replacement - so looks like that is probably the only way open !

From the factory - yes! Its why they are so difficult to remove - soft non concrete thread locker can be used on reassembly but really not necessary!

Didn't the 1100's have the lights monitoring system - that's a big chunk of a waste of copper and plastic - or was it only on the ET's ?

So the 'needle' isn't bent - its how it is fixed makes it wonky! And i'm not sure anyone was serious when describing that to ensure it was "silent operation in idle" That's the most BS excuse ever! Everyone since carbs were developed knows the needle should be essentially be centred in the jet. A pretty reliable method just uses a spring behind the spring to hold it down but allow a degree of lateral movement / wobble to account for the slide moving.

Just buy std. Suzuki pads then! Most aftermarket brands are moving to mixes of organic and sintered metal, or fully sintered which wear discs excessively.

Seems DJ don't do a specific kit for the GSX 1100F - maybe one for the GSXR1100 '88 model could work? In which case they have separate stage 1 and stage 3 kits @ about £150 each. You'll have to determine whether your particular build needs one or the other. Of course there are other kits available - Factory - is one although i've never used one so don't know how well they work! Factory also seemingly do st 1 and st 3 kits for about $140 so probably about £140 in Blighty! (Note : these are for plastic capped carbs not the earlier tin top varieties!)

I had a guess on your engine (1127 GSXR K / L?) . . . . . https://dynojet.co.uk/djs-3127.html - change it if incorrect Certainly not cheap - most good tuning shops should be able to get them!

It's the flower of a Leek ain't it ?

A 200 MJ is waaaaaaay too large - just proves the mid range ain't working ....... not enough airflow acting on needle and / or emulsion tube and relying on MJ just 'leaking' enough fuel to run and if it ever gets to WOT it'll be massively rich! Std needles are designed to run lean enough with all the exhaust and airbox restrictions & work with sensible sized MJ's - the aftermarket jetting kits usually include reprofiled needles because of this. They are spendy but DJ kits tend to work 'out of the box' and within 1 or 2 jet sizes of recommended so avoiding a lot of faffing about - that's the route i'd go!