Gixer1460

I used to use EBC 'Green' pads all the time, then they changed the formulation and weren't the same, so I swapped back to OEM which cost about or a bit more but last better! I see Alphasports list EBC Organic pads as an OEM replacement on some of the GS1000 models and EBC do say their Organics are a direct OEM replacement - so looks like that is probably the only way open !

From the factory - yes! Its why they are so difficult to remove - soft non concrete thread locker can be used on reassembly but really not necessary!

Didn't the 1100's have the lights monitoring system - that's a big chunk of a waste of copper and plastic - or was it only on the ET's ?

So the 'needle' isn't bent - its how it is fixed makes it wonky! And i'm not sure anyone was serious when describing that to ensure it was "silent operation in idle" That's the most BS excuse ever! Everyone since carbs were developed knows the needle should be essentially be centred in the jet. A pretty reliable method just uses a spring behind the spring to hold it down but allow a degree of lateral movement / wobble to account for the slide moving.

Just buy std. Suzuki pads then! Most aftermarket brands are moving to mixes of organic and sintered metal, or fully sintered which wear discs excessively.

Seems DJ don't do a specific kit for the GSX 1100F - maybe one for the GSXR1100 '88 model could work? In which case they have separate stage 1 and stage 3 kits @ about £150 each. You'll have to determine whether your particular build needs one or the other. Of course there are other kits available - Factory - is one although i've never used one so don't know how well they work! Factory also seemingly do st 1 and st 3 kits for about $140 so probably about £140 in Blighty! (Note : these are for plastic capped carbs not the earlier tin top varieties!)

I had a guess on your engine (1127 GSXR K / L?) . . . . . https://dynojet.co.uk/djs-3127.html - change it if incorrect Certainly not cheap - most good tuning shops should be able to get them!

It's the flower of a Leek ain't it ?

A 200 MJ is waaaaaaay too large - just proves the mid range ain't working ....... not enough airflow acting on needle and / or emulsion tube and relying on MJ just 'leaking' enough fuel to run and if it ever gets to WOT it'll be massively rich! Std needles are designed to run lean enough with all the exhaust and airbox restrictions & work with sensible sized MJ's - the aftermarket jetting kits usually include reprofiled needles because of this. They are spendy but DJ kits tend to work 'out of the box' and within 1 or 2 jet sizes of recommended so avoiding a lot of faffing about - that's the route i'd go!

As no size comparison was going to say T2 but given above ^^^ what about T25 or T28? Internally it looks brand new - NOS found on a shelf somewhere? Good find if so!

Firstly why and how did they get 'bent'? Not sure i've ever heard of anyone bending needles! Bearing in mind how accurately they are machined / made, any deviation is likely to touch the jet causing increased wear, so i'd probably say no - but you've nothing to lose by trying!

Model years vary by a year depending on whether US or European / UK market !

Just buy another rack of 1000 TB's - should be cheaper than custom SS plates which need exact ground edges to work . . . . . just my opinion!

With a turbo you don't need high rpm's! My biggie makes peak between 8500-9000! Unless a cam is specifically ground for turbo use ie. lots of lift and short duration it'll probably be worse - overall - compared to a std. cam, I'd stick to a stock 1100 cam for the output you want.

Mounting is fine - air will flow equally well through it whether vertical or as is - stop over thinking things LOL!

About the only Injection rack that will fit natively without re-spacing is off a Z1H that I know of - everything else is late model and usually watercooled so needs re-spacing! As regards ECU's it's down to money and DIY or lack of, skills from £150 odd Megasquirt / Speeduino and self assembly through to Motec's and Pectel's @ multi thousands!

My 'go to' method is an Impact Driver, 12" extension and the large 'blunt' cross head bit in the set - never had a screw that didn't yield after a couple of whacks - replace with SS M6 cap head screws.

If you are 'hitting a wall' @ 120-130 something is wrong or you are whimping out LOL! My old donkey Kawazuki, naked, w / flat bars, Suck through T2 garrett, S&S carb and 10psi = 200 and a bit hp, would hit 155 and probably a bit more if it wasn't for the parachute riding position! Engine had a 1186 kit + 2mm spacer plate due to 12:1 CR pistons, std. crank, std. rods, std. K/L head and std. cams with a Dyna2000 ignition. Std rods and cranks will survive 270-280 odd hp - AS LONG AS THE OIL SUPPLY IS GOOD - lose that and the big ends get toasted and will exit the block! Forget all the flash stuff until you are pushing 300+hp or 1.5 bar + boost - really not necessary. A good ported head will help pick up hp while using less boost. Plenty of peeps using carbs upto 300+ hp so EFI not necessary - it just helps tuning and keeps AFR's more accurate.

No user serviceable parts shown or available on part fisches so answer is probably NO!

The site doesn't like the bastardisation of GSXR - they are funny lot round here LOL!

Why be so cryptic LOL! Honestly never seen 37's for sale in the UK but I guess they must be ! Just had a look on the Keihin WWW and the FCR35 and 37's are listed for GSXR600's and RF600's so the manufacturer thinks they may be a bit weee for a bigger engine possibly? Mind you they also recommend 41's on GSX's LOL!

Essentially what you are saying is a 40+yr old designed loom and been used for 40+yrs isn't really fit for purpose anymore - a rewired loom would be a far better proposition! Nothing wrong with that just not achievable for most unless electrickery inclined. Even trying to clean old connectors just reveals more corrosion and the dreaded 'black' oxidised or 'Green' corroded wire when stripping back insulation to make a new connection. Sometimes enough is enough and re-new is the way forward. And btw those Series R/R are bloody expensive - almost cheaper to get a new rewound stator and shunt R/R and keep up with regular oil changes!

So not bolt on then . . . . . re-spacing nitemare! 'D' applications as in the Italian 'D' ?

Maybe - but with a choice of 39 or 41mm - they are slightly / much to large for a stocker size engine! As said, RS spring pressure can be reduced!

Shows how long i've been out of the Motec loop! I was aware of the M800 as that was the natural upgrade from the M8 I last used but the M84 is now a deffo option as I do have 8 injectors to control sequentially!