Gixer1460

You have an idle injection pulse of 1ms? That is pretty short - i'd doubt most injectors can't open and close reliably at 1ms - maybe? How about dialling back the fuel pressure to 2.5 or even 2 bar and see what affect that has? Reading through the thread again I see you are using a 044 pump - nothing wrong with them as regards pressure but their amp draw probably equals what is drawn by everything else - maybe the two are connected?

If its been worked on in a previous life then relying on Suzuki guidance will likely lead to dead ends - these cranks are so easy to pull apart and mix & match components that you can end up with 3 or 4 models of bike in one crank. As long as the bits that work with the bits on the crank, fit, - is all that matters!

Most certainly isn't 'normal' ! Without being next to it - its a difficult diagnosis but suspect oil or cam chain related? Check oil level and maybe do a oil change with new 10w/40 oil, filter change wouldn't harm either if you drop the oil! But I wouldn't run it too much while it sounds like that!

Sorry I read it arse about face ! If load increase is needed a simple lock up works good - certainly enough for over 300hp! So losing a plate ain't the biggest drama.

I sort of can't work out why an engine that produces waaaay less torque, has a bigger clutch & more surface area compared to the 1100 torque monster! And as regards the rivet situation - are you nutz! You need 3 or 4 and you buy a 100 and then ship them around the world! Surely a local machine shop could make some up after hardness testing the OEM's and a 20 - 50 ton press would squish anything into place! APE still list rivets for GSX clutch backplates - they can't be that different and at $190 - cheapish, considering half the stuff you don't want LOL!

I can't imagine a WERA machine is going to use a 'cobbled together' collection of parts, maybe ok for track duty but 12 or 24 hours reliability - nah! I reckon they would have had billet 6 speed gearboxes made to suit 1100 components in the clutch to avoid all the potential conflicts! Besides a £3-4000 gearbox is pennies in the grand scheme of racing teams! We used to spend that on GSX Auto boxes in Funny Bikes. In regard the clearance problem - thinking outside the box - how about losing a fibre and a steel and machining all components down by that depth, interference problem vanishes?

Isn't the large taper almost exclusively on the EFE / GSX1150 / GS1150 family?

I resent that remark! - these were done 12-15 years ago and they weren't f**king cheap!

Most 'Dealers' know fuck all about the bikes they sell - if the brakes work is all they care about! As long as they don't say or describe them as Brembo's - get out of jail free - 'Caveat Emptor' applies - Buyer Beware!

'Up and Overs' is the way to go - if you have the space! Personally, I would have stuffed the BOV next to the plenum so simplifying the up pipe - but that's just me LOL!

As above ^^^ the classification of 'historic' is not a 'get out of jail free card' for unlimited mods. The Historic - MOT thing precludes mods made within the last 30 yrs and / or being substantial in nature . . . . . and a chassis / frame change is! Insurance is the next one - they will know if its reclassified as 'historic' and know the criteria that it should attain, so telling them its got a mod'd frame will set the alarm bells off. I don't dare consider the implications of a total loss accident or being stolen would be, ie. potential declined claim and zero pennies for you! And lastly, the DVLA don't take kindly to being rogered and could simply seize the bike and crush it - treating it as a wringer! All of which is a pretty unsatisfactory outcome. Gone are the days when a frame swap was a weekend affair, get the boyz round and carry on camping - its either done right with 'like for like' or do the MSVA thing and live with the consequences of that route - a Q plate ain't the worst thing in the big scheme!

I just had a look at the Robinsons GSX1100 ET 1980 - cam cover page, and that shows a cover with 16No general cover screws ( 2 + 14 + 4 ) Fiche items 3, 4 & 5 and then add another 4 for the breather plate - fiche item 12 . . . . . . . total 24No. ! So that cover part # is CYLINDER HEAD COVER (11171-49203) - Old Part Number 11171-49202

I have the Evans stuff in my Zetec powered Escort and its true it won't boil till 180 deg C but as boiling water @ 100 deg C is waaaay beyond the point that's good for an engine, either way its not smart! Plus if you do get a leak out on a ride, you can't add water as then you are back to square one - easy for me to carry a litre of fluid to top up if necessary!

Doesn't make any difference if you do or don't! I find TDC via pointer in plug hole on piston, bit more accurate than a piece of bent tin LOL!

How about they charge £20 pitch fee's and include 2 free entries? I'm sure pitch holders will also be mooching around for stuff they want, so why not treat as regular punters?

Absolutely no point fitting a head that provides high CR then fitting gaskets to lower the CR and destroy the squish ! Maybe if you hog out the chambers, and fit deeper dish pistons to control the CR, fit normal HG, retain decent squish, it may be some benefit?

I've never been that fussed about it - crank has pin that engages with ATU and Dyna rotor fixes on ATU one of two ways. Set plate in middle of slots and fire it up! I suppose you could check exact timing with an adjustable strobe light but never found it necessary!

I don't understand - gsx & efe are interchangable! As regards use of a dyna S!

As to correct speeds - it varies depending on drill material, material to be drilled, cutting oil etc, but here's good 'assumption' chart for guidance. If the hole being drilled is 4x and greater than the diameter of the bit then i'd reduce speeds quoted by half. Too slow is bad, slow - medium is good - too fast is bad also

How about using the steel basket from the 1127 engines - maybe more clearance? Still amazed that peeps 'need' to try this in any 1100 ! ! !

Its not wrong but it would be 'better' if the tap has two outlets to use them to feed the two inlets.

I just looked in the Haynes for the GSX1100 / 1150 and that shows the metal centre of the seal facing out ie. opposite to how it is above. Not sure how different the GS1000 would be, if at all!

That's odd as all the RS flatslides i've ever seen have two inlets one between 1 & 2 and another between 3 & 4! Can be clearly seen in the manual / parts breakdown. Also odd not to have a vacuum port on at least one of the rubbers!

Ah ! What happens if you get the holes wrong and suck all the bath plugs into the engine? LOL! Maybe not the daftest idea ever on OSS but possibly close to it

Having or not having an airbox has nothing to do with airflow. An airbox will flow as much air as an engine needs right through WOT and with a filter in place! Open carbs will rarely be able to use more air than that. The difference between airboxes and open carbs / individually filtered carbs is the 'quality of air delivered' not the quantity! Air boxes are designed to provide a 'still' air reservoir that the engine draws upon - this air is fairly linear in delivery and accelerates through the venturi drawing the fuel up. Open or individual filters pull chaotic air and so have a lesser effect through the venturi - maybe a reason most will need bigger jets whilst producing little more power when run back to back? This chaotic air really messes with CV function also. The dual carb pod K&N's help the two connected carbs have a 'pot' of air - not as good as an airbox but better than singles! Case in point - GSXR1100 'M' 40mm CV's - difficult to tune for pipes etc. WITH an airbox, virtually impossible without! And If I understand your intention - why would you want to bypass the filter with unfiltered air?