Gixer1460

As said, it's cooling circuit side and no engine needs cooling from a cold start - 10 or 15 seconds ain't going to hurt anything!

More info required, like what boost, what intake temp desired, what ambient temp, pressure loss across the core, core efficiency? Generally try an fit as big as feasible / possible as it'll never be TOO efficient!

Not sure if the 2560S is a ballbearing type - which is what you want if you require minimal lag. I'm sort of struggling to understand the 'need' for an excess of turbo power when a good 750 will spin those 6" slicks the entire 1/4 without a turbo!

Only if yer 'merican and then you wouldn't understand the GSX bit either LOL! To us over here the whole family of 4V's 1100's are GSX 11's with the later ones known as EFE's or EF's. Less confusion as we had 2V GS1100's

Not offering advice but as far as I know, rim profile differs between tubed and non tubed in the area of the bead - so do it at your own risk! Probably makes no difference on a Guzzi LOL!

The Cult of Instant Gratification! He'll be sadly disappointed here LOL!

Agreed on the slotting (although I use slotted wheels on everything i've ripped into!) but using them to gain valve clearance is counter productive IMO. You slot the wheels to obtain correct valve timing - if that cannot be obtained due to interference, then cure the interference, don't skirt around the issue and compromise the valve timing.

He actually gets a 2.0 second delay ! Dial in racing can be close but you MUST, MUST, MUST, be killer on the tree and be able to run quicker than your dial-in. In your example if both hit a 0.400 light and hit dial in's you should cross together but if you pull 0.500 light against a 0.400 light you've possibly lost and you can only hope he breaks out. This is why you need to be able to go quicker short track to force opponent to pass you down track when you can back off forcing a break out! Be wary of scooters and low powered daily's as the handicap is massive and they'll be 50m from the stripe before you start - very hard to beat that!

What? You hit a van so hard you ended up inside it ! Dude, you need your eyes checked out LOL!

Then the answer is No - probably!

With modern fuels, plugs are more likely to be grey than brown - those in my daily come out near white and its running perfectly! And I wouldn't call - what was heard on the video - a backfire, just sounds normal for bike fitted with aftermarket can - they all draw a little air in and burn's with any unused fuel drawn through under high vacuum situations like decel., it wouldn't worry me, otherwise stick a wideband up the exhaust to check it definitively?

From memory the rocker ratio is 1.5 so that 0.5mm increase in cam lift translates to +0.75mm of valve lift. Unless the pistons had an excess of clearance, that increase may cause interference - only a dry build will give the answers! Sometimes you have to use what you can get and cutting an additional 0.5mm valve relief in your pistons isn't the end of the world!

Yeah - that's what I was about to type but the Casio had a flat battery Man you are waaaaay too smart!

Not usually although some Suzuki literature may reference engine numbers runs against a particular model run hence why dealers often ask for a chassis / engine number to get the right parts for a year specific item!

I'd guess carrying a cylinder of liquid N2 would pose significant risk to life, on a bike, outweighing its potential cooling benefits - no one ever died through a punctured IC in a crash LOL! But no - nothing to stop you trying

Quite easy - Search Tyler, then search Tyler Content and . . . . . . . . . . Bingo!

Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't - I have no preference, but there again I don't use a torque wrench for these fasteners either and i've never snapped one yet although i've snapped a few that were OEM factory whilst removing them - that's one for the X files ! Regarding trapped grease / oil 'boiling off' and vaporising . . . . . . its unlikely an engine would ever get to a point where either would vaporise AND cause damage. Just checked 'Permatex assembly lube' flash point is 550 deg F / 288 deg C ! And engine oil similarly is 420 deg F / 215 deg C.

Its a gearbox problem - they are ALWAYS expensive LOL! Sounds possibly like a bearing or two have gone bad! Recent noise or has it been building over weeks / months / years ??? That's as far as my g/box knowledge extends though!

You can lead horses to water but . . . . . . . . .

Regardless of fitting difficulties - 40mm carbs are a PITA to tune even when fitted to the correct bike at the factory especially if the airbox is removed!

That's an air cooled size engine! Did you mean 1157? ie the Blandit engine? which is essentially a 1127 engine. Been done a few times but most can't see the benefit unless the engine is so 'peaky' that it requires use of multiple gears to stay in the narrowed powerband. Busa box deffo won't swap into OC cases.

No empirical evidence here but I suspect the 'instant' cooling effect is real but the minimal power increase is down to the water taking up volume in the cylinder whilst providing no combustibles. The air density may increase slightly due to the cooling and so aid with detonation but I suspect any added fuel serves hardly any 'useful' purpose other than a bit more cooling / lowering the AFR even further. Carrying useful quantities of water mix will pose problems and risk of running out whilst at high boost could prove terminal - maybe good at the track where levels can be monitored but for a road bike even with the inherent impracticalities an air 2 air IC alone or with the use of E85 must be a better solution long term. I know I could run my system with pump piss up to around 1 bar boost very safely but using 2+ bar boost, I must use decent fuel - C16 race fuel or similar - easy choice, as nothing is free, there are always trade off's!

Re the above chart - I thought the 600's had a different cylinder spacing to the 750 / 1100 engines? So how would the camshafts interchange?

Its not too hot! - most watercooling systems are pressurised and run 70 - 80 degrees C so the delta from intake air temp in the above post to coolant temp is approx 130 deg C - that is a significant cooling potential. Agreed there will be a degree of heating off boost, but once into boost, air will be heated (basic physics) and parity will soon occur! And if going for ultimate performance and short run times, like drag racing, then a ice water IC makes sense but even then at, say, 40psi and 8 - 10 second run, that ice water is near enough boiling! Just about everything has been tried in connection with cooling charge air - I like the idea of a methanol / alcohol / water spray over a air - air IC or even a CO2 / NO2 spray as the coolant is so cold at point of contact or has a huge potential for sucking heat away due to evaporation, as to achieve sub ambient intake temps. Combine these with using alcohol as combustion fuel and boost potential sky rockets! I believe Indy cars race using Methanol and boost level is capped at 50psi and they run virtually flat out for 4-500 miles - no mean feat!

I'd generally agree air to water IC's make sense IF the engine is already water cooled! Trying to install a standalone water cooled solution on a bike is crazy - the original engine makes more heat so needs bigger cooling capacity, the boost requirement with excess heat requires an IC, a water cooled IC needs a) all the air side plumbing b) the water side plumbing c) the pump, power supply & possibly the controller and d) a water radiator to dump the IC removed heat! Yes the picture of 'Project Laaarge' has a water IC but Sean has always been a bit strange and doesn't think 'normally' + its designed to run under extreme boost for 5-10 seconds max - nice practical 'grocery getter' LOL! I did talk with him that if he moved the oil cooler (under seat maybe) he could get a massive air 2 air in its place and his answer was ' it looks the mutts nutz though'